Laoding patched ball

[rmay]

I'm still new to this, but I was hoping to get some input on some problems I encountered at the range this weekend trying to get comfortable shooting my Lyman .54 Trade Rifle. This is only the second time I've been out shooting with it, but I noticed a big difference in how the patched balls were loading down the bore. The only other time I have shot this gun was when the temps were much cooler, in the 50's. This time the temps were in the 70's. I could not believe how much more difficult it was to get the patched ball down the barrel in the warmer temp. I tried everything I could think of. At first, I just kept loading and shooting, no swabbing. After I broke my wooden ramrod, I started swabbing after every shot. No change. I could not get the ball down the bore without pounding the ramrod. Then I started to lube the bore after swabbing with bore butter. No change. Then I started putting bore butter on the patches. Still no change. I was using a .530 ball with pre-lubed .015 and .018 patches. Any idea what I might be doing wrong?
:thanks:
Russ52

 

[roundball]

I'm still new to this, but I was hoping to get some input on some problems I encountered at the range this weekend trying to get comfortable shooting my Lyman .54 Trade Rifle. This is only the second time I've been out shooting with it, but I noticed a big difference in how the patched balls were loading down the bore. The only other time I have shot this gun was when the temps were much cooler, in the 50's. This time the temps were in the 70's. I could not believe how much more difficult it was to get the patched ball down the barrel in the warmer temp. I tried everything I could think of. At first, I just kept loading and shooting, no swabbing. After I broke my wooden ramrod, I started swabbing after every shot. No change. I could not get the ball down the bore without pounding the ramrod. Then I started to lube the bore after swabbing with bore butter. No change. Then I started putting bore butter on the patches. Still no change. I was using a .530 ball with pre-lubed .015 and .018 patches. Any idea what I might be doing wrong?
:thanks:
Russ52

Well, I assume you scrubbed and lubed the bore after the last time you used it so you started this range trip with a clean bore.

And the .530 + .015" patches are nominal industry size so they should be fine...note: I found the .018" to be better for me as they hold more lube, and due to a tighter fit seem to wipe the grooves cleaner, and tightend up my groups.

If you did start with a clean bore, it sounds like you had an initial buildup of fouling during this range trip, then inspite of starting to patch the bore later in the session, some fouling may have gotten built up and pressed hard into place like asphault...so until you get that out of there, probably with hot soapy water and bore brushes (or Shooter's Choice Black Powder Cleaning Gel), it'll continue to give problems...and possibly begin harming the bore.

If it was me, I'd get that bore back to the bare, raw metal conditin like it left the factory, then start lubing it heavily with a natural type lube like bore butter or similar product...but not any oils...then use .018" bore butter patches all during your next shoot...and depending on how much powder you're using (=fouling) and if the humidity is low (=fouling) you may want to damp patch/dry patch/lube patch after every shot until you re-establish the fact that it's loading OK.
:m2c:

 

[amccall]

Was it easy to start the prb and then it got harder to load as the ball traveled down the barrel?
As easy, I mean your are able to start it with a palm starter with not much effort. Also when you initialy clean the bore with a jag before you shoot does it travel down the barrel with little effort, does it hang in places or is it difficult to clean at first. If this is the case then I agree with the other response that the barrel needs to be really scrubbed. When shooting a ml rifle at targets it is a good habbit to swab the barrel after each shot. Your consistancy will be the better and you will reduce scratching your head wondering why did it do that. If the bore is clean and everything else is fine then try a thinner patch and see if it helps. I know that I am going to go to a slightly smaller ball for my 54 cal. because the .15 patch is a little tight for me. :thumbsup:

 

[Tahquamenon]

Did you get all of the packing lube cleaned from the barrel before shooting the first time?

How many shots did you fire on your first and only range session with this rifle?

Sounds as if there was possibly residual packing lube and or old fouling (I hope not rust) in the bore from previous shooting.

Also, if swabbing in-between shots, make sure you spit/damp (not moist) patch, follow up with an alcohol patch and then a dry patch followed by a lubed patch.

Any moisture in the bore when loading will cause your powder to stick to the bore walls and when you are loading the next round, the powder will collect between the projectile and the bore rapidly reducing clearance.

Before heading out again. Get a decent brass or steel range rod with a good handle. You will be glad you did.

Leave the stock wooden rod in the thimbles.

Get your bore a clean as possible.
I'd use a stout bore solvent (butch's bore shine) with a brush (20-30 strokes) followed by 20-30 strokes with patches.

Then hot soapy and hot clean water pump/flush.

A couple of alcohol patches and then a dry patch or two.

I use one of those little drop-in bore lights to visually inspect ML bores. Really handy in 45 cal on up.

Then lube the bore well with a natural lube for shooting and try the range again.

Make sure your patches are well lubed.

You should be fine with the .530 ball and .015 patch. You could also get some .010 patches to try as well. Perhaps your bore is on the tight side of things.

:m2c:

 

[BrownBear]

I agree with Tahq. I don't know what kind of industrial grade packing Lyman uses, but it's tough to remove completely. Until it's completely gone, you are going to fight with the same issues you are experiencing now. Get the bore really clean, then shoot it a bit, and the Lymans are a breeze to load.

 

[rmay]

Any moisture in the bore when loading will cause your powder to stick to the bore walls and when you are loading the next round, the powder will collect between the projectile and the bore rapidly reducing clearance.
:m2c:

This might be it. Other than the weather, this is the only thing that was different. The first time out shooting, I did not swab between shots, and I had no trouble getting the patched ball down the bore. This time I started swabbing after a couple of shots and that's when it got harder and harder to load. I must not have swabbed the bore dry. Plus it was quite warm and the barrel was warm from shooting. How can I tell when the bore is dry enough to load? I was following the directions on the solvent bottle. Swab both sides of a wet patch, then both sides of a dry patch. I do appreciate all the help in trying to resolve my lack of experience.
Russ52 :thanks:

 

[cayugad]

Russ a little trick I use when swabbing the flintlocks, or any rifle that uses a #11 cap for ignition is I swab with isopropyl alcohol pure. It will still pull the fowling out and a couple dry patches afterward and the bore will be nice and dry. You can then load as normal.

When I was shooting cap locks I used to use a alcohol/windshield washer solution and was often times getting hangfires and even misfires. All that I could figure was, the barrel was not dry enough when I loaded the second time. After switching to the straight alcohol this all went away...

 

[arcticap]

One of my necessary pastimes is to sit in front of the T.V. and hand lube (over-lube most would say) a batch of patches with Wonderlube or TC Bore Butter. I do this even if they are pre-lubed! I'll wear some cheap disposable gloves and then store the patches in ziplocks. I can shoot many accurate shots with lighter loads without swabbing. I also use some thick hardware store dowels for ramrods (the thicker the better) and often start the balls with a light rubber faced hammer. Any lube on my hands from loading patches gets wiped right off on a handy rag and I usually never experience anything but smooth loading. There are various shaped handles that can be added to the ramrod dowels for comfort as well.

 

[brubincam]

i put my patches in a glass bowl with crisco[white] put in microwave untill melted.stirr until all the patches are wet then squeese out the excess crisco and let cool.... :results:

 

[Keith]

I believe you probably just need to to perfect your technique and find what works in your gun. The barrel is probably rough(you said it was brand new right?), and it will get better in time as it smooths out. You will also find that humidity makes a difference in how much and how hard the fouling is.
There is one thing you wrote, "Then I started putting bore butter on the patches." I assume it is just the way I am reading this, but you did lube the patches used with the ball before loading right? Dry patches will stick in the bore, hard. Good luck. :thumbsup: