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Lead or Leather to hold the flint

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Wonder if this Dave guy is a new partner at Chambers?

Dave's not here, man. šŸ˜„

Leather for me too. To be fair, I didn't have much luck when trying lead and leather worked fine, so I never really experimented further with it. I may try lead again in my Bess at some point and see if I can figure out what I was doing wrong, as it was historical for military muskets.
 
Sounds like leather is the way to go. What thickness do most use? i have a few different kinds.

I don't know what brand of rifle it is, it isn't new and has been covered with rawhide. Here's pics of the rifle and it's lock.
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Kenny
 

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Sounds like leather is the way to go. What thickness do most use? i have a few different kinds.

I don't know what brand of rifle it is, it isn't new and has been covered with rawhide. Here's pics of the rifle and it's lock.
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Kenny
Just out of curiosity, have you confirmed the gun is not loaded?

I would try .08ā€ or so (+/- .02ā€) thick leather. Rifle appears to be a CVA Kentucky Rifle with a two piece stock. Who covered the gun with rawhide? Personally, I would consider removing the leather, but there could be quite a project under it, particularly if it is glued to the gun or possibly hiding something.
 
I like leather. You can cut it with a blade. It's just about everywhere too. Old gloves, shoe tongue, the patch off your levis......

wm
 
Iā€™m going to point out here that leather is the cleaner healthier option than lead. Remember the flint lead pads tend to be much closer to your face and can give of friable residue With use.

Personally I think the lead is too delicate falls apart, a nice piece of leather never failed me And for extra strength i sprinkle on some Rosen powder.
 
New guy here. I've had a flinter for a few years now and have used leather to hold the flint and have seen lead used. Which is a better option?
Thanks for your time.
Kenny

OF the two, the best option is the flint holder that begins with the letter L šŸ˜¶

OK enough goofing on the subject, actually both work in different applications...

Actually I've done some testing, so it was a very small sample, but in addition to "holding" the flint, does one of the two types of holders give any other advantages?

What I found was two things. FIRST..., in reproduction, military musket locks, and only in those, LEAD was better. Although the locks whether Japanese made or Italian made or Indian made, have large "throws"..., meaning the distance from the edge of the flint at full **** to the face of the frizzen is large..., they are rather slow in flint impact velocity against that frizzen. So not only did the lead when properly wrapped, hold the flint very well, but it gave some added inertia to the strike of the flint against the frizzen. This is important to folks like reenactors who are firing lots of rounds in rapid succession, without much time to tend to the edge of that flint..., and presumably was important to soldiers in combat in the age of the Brown Bess and Charleville. This would seem to explain why armies of many nations would use the material found in bullets to wrap their flints, instead of the much less expensive scrap of leather that could've been found throughout the countryside. ;)

SECOND..., Leather was much much better for a civilian lock, Especially a good quality rifle lock, with one important point for both lead and leather... the back of the flint needs to rest against the **** screw. I found that leather was much better in my rifle locks but only performed well when either a portion was cut away to allow the back of the flint to rest against the screw in the **** jaw that held the flint in place, OR if I punched two holes in the leather holder, to allow the jaw screw to pass through the holder with the back of the flint resting against the screw. I think that the leather has a slight cushioning effect in a fast moving rifle lock, and IF the leather is between the back of the flint and the jaw screw, the impact is reduced, and I've seen a flint slightly shift when encased in leather even when the jaws were very tight upon it. Lead in a rifle lock did not work well by far... a quicker edge dulling, and gripping of the flint was a also a problem...

The two methods of rifle flint leather patterns, these get folded around the back of the flint...,
Flintlock Jaw LEATHER.jpg


The lock with the upper leather version being used. NOTE that IF the upper version is used, and for some reason the lock jaws loosen, and the flint drop off into the grass, the leather is still held in place, and all the shooter need do is replace the missing flint.

FLINTLOCK WITH LEATHER.jpg


LD
 
New guy here. I've had a flinter for a few years now and have used leather to hold the flint and have seen lead used. Which is a better option?
Thanks for your time.
Kenny
I would say leather for sure. I have tried lead, but found it loosened up its grip after a few shots, resulting in the flint going away, or flopping around not getting solid strikes. That is because the lead is ductile and squishes out away from the pressure of the jaws. when you change flints, the thick bits of the old lead will not fit the new rock, and it seems to get loose sooner. I suspect the Chamberslock issue results from the lack of cushioning that leather will give, which probably results in broken frizzens or cocks just behind the jaws (I have never seen either personally).
 
The leather wrap or flint wrap is one of those choices that have many nuances. Part of the decision making process must begin with the flint lock itself. So, @Wolfpaak, what rifle with whose lock do you have? If you have a lock from Jim Chambers, then the only option is a leather wrap.

If you have a large military lock such as the Brown Bess that @springfield art used then a lead wrap is an acceptable choice, but then so is leather. I use a leather wrap in the lock in my Brown Bess.

Most rifle sized locks will perform better with a leather wrap. The leather grips well and can be tightened more consistently than lead. The leather has a bit of cushion to allow the flint to scrape the face of the steel (frizzen) rather than bash the face of the steel.

The final note is well stated by @Stantheman86. Large military style locks can optionally use lead wraps. Rifles, fowling guns and pistols should use leather wraps.
You beat me , the above is why I use leather in my Lyman flint trade rifle, its just easier for me . Would rather
send lead down range.
gunnyr
 
Lead seems to only work in the huge military musket jaws of the "****" (sorry trying to use correct terms) and it seems to add weight, improving spark

I think it was used as such because it was available and some armies issued flints pre-wrapped in an egg shaped strip of lead.

My 1777 Charleville has teeth in the jaws that firmly grip the lead
 
That's true, and when they didn't have they crushed a ball in the shape of a lead plate, it's true that the weight of the lead was supposed to help the striking force of the hammer with the momentum taken from the "full ****" position that's what I learned too, but the hammers were heavy and the stones of respectable dimensions...
Personally I prefer, after a bad adventure with a lead sheet rubbing on the frizzen, to use a piece of leather...
Don't tell anyone, but my wife has old shoes and I have a good knife... ;)
 
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