Lead

[Stumpkiller]

I used to say if you could get free lead it was worth it. Lately, I would say if you buy bulk from Rotometals it's worth it as well.

Plus, the paranoid in me says it can't be a bad thing to be able to cast from scrap lead if lead balls become toxic contraband.

 

[jamesthomas]

You need to have your Lead around 750 to 775 degrees, At least thats whats the temp I set my melting pot. Lead melts around 600* but it wont pour good. At 750 or so it pours easy and makes less rejects. after you pour the ball get a nice chunk of lead on the spru cutter, let cool for about 3 or 4 seconds then hit the spru cutter with your dowel and drop the balls on the towel. Repeat until you have at least a hundred because you will have some rejects.

 

Thanks again to everyone. Has anyone dropped into a pal of water? Or would this make the lead to hard, if cooled to fast? Thanks again to everyone.

Aim small, miss small...

 

[Bill Hall]

Smokepole, I always drop my balls into a bucket of water, right out of the mold. Now, what I've learned here is that pure lead won't harden when quenched like that, but harder lead alloys will. Like I said before, I always use pure lead, so I didn't believe that lead could be hardened, but others here have stated that wheel weights and such will harden when quenched. So you might want to drop your balls into a bunch of cloth, like someone already mentioned, just to be sure. I only use a bucket of water to slow the balls down, so they don't get that flat spot from the impact of the drop. Bill

 

[CoyoteJoe]

Dropping directly into water can be dangerous. If a bit of water gets into the mold before you fill it the steam pressure will erupt molten metal all over. Best to drop onto soft cloth, like an old towel folder to 1/4 size. Water quenching won't make much difference in the hardness of pure lead but can make a considerable difference with lead alloys. If you buy a new Lee mold it will come with a sheet of general casting instructions, read and heed and you'll do OK.

 

Thanks again, guys. I will keep all posted. This site is fantastic, and I could not ask ofr more.
Aim small, miss small...

 

[freekforge]

when i quench them i drop them into my GLOVED hand :shocked2: then toss them in a bucket behind me so the water isn't near the lead or mold.

 

Thats an idea. Thanks

 

[rr11]

I quinch bullets for my centerfire rifles but not my RB. It does harden wheelweights. Makes a differance in leading in my 45-70 Sharps.

 

[Greyfeather]

Thanks to everyone whom replied> I am looking forward to another step in a sport I love. As far as tools needed? Melting pot, some type of single ball mold, lead, and small dipper? Anything else??

Aim small, miss small...

Gloves, safety glasses, bundle of cloth to drop the balls from the mold.

:thumbsup:

And an old stainless steel tablespoon to use for a skimmer, a coffee can for the dross, a hardwood stick to use for a mold knocker, some boxes for all them shiny new balls, and a well-ventilated work area.

Yep, guess I was in a hurry, by the way, if you drill several 1/8" holes in the old spoon,it will help in keeping the molten lead in your smelting pot when you skim and seems to help stirring and fluxing. I also like to fasten a wooden handle to my skimming spoon, it doesn't get nearly as hot to hold in extended sessions. I use a 6" piece of broom handle riveted to the spoon handle.

 

[Muskeg Stomper]

Old muffin pans from thrift stores make great ingot molds for a heckava lot cheaper than store bought molds and you can cast more ingots a one time with a muffin pan as well. Stainless steel ladles work just fine for casting too.

 

hanks guys. Do you have to coat the molds or muffin pans with anything so the lead does not stick? What about the ball mold itself?

 

[Muskeg Stomper]

Recommend that you search how to cast RB. Usually, you smoke the molds with a match. For muffin pan ingots, nothing required.

 

[jamesthomas]

I use a old cast iron corn bread mold. Bought it at a antquies shop for about $10.00, makes 7 one pound ingots. muffin pans work too, I would try to find the older kind that are thicker. I would think that the thin ones would warp. And DON'T get the kind that has the non-stick coating on them. The ingots do not stick to my mold.

 

[fire-n-brimstone]

I don't smoke my molds and never have had a problem with balls dropping free. The main thing to remember is mold and alloy temp. I run my alloy at 700 degrees and my mold will drop perfectly once up to temp.


Andy

 

[Rifleman1776]

Recommend that you search how to cast RB. Usually, you smoke the molds with a match. For muffin pan ingots, nothing required.

I purchased two new Lee (almuminum) molds recently. Now, I have never been a fan of smoking molds. But with so much talk here about doing it I decided to try on one. :shocked2: :barf: Nuttin' but wrinkles. Really awful. Cleaned the mess out and tried again. Results good. Other new one, I just sprayed with carburetor cleaner and started casting. :grin: Results great from git go. IMHO (presumed) advantage of smoking a mold is pure myth.

 

Thanks for all the advice from everyone. I will stay in touch, and let you know how things go.
Aim small, miss small...

 

[Muskeg Stomper]

I purchased two new Lee (almuminum) molds recently. Now, I have never been a fan of smoking molds. But with so much talk here about doing it I decided to try on one. Nuttin' but wrinkles. Really awful. Cleaned the mess out and tried again. Results good. Other new one, I just sprayed with carburetor cleaner and started casting. Results great from git go. IMHO (presumed) advantage of smoking a mold is pure myth.

Yep, saw you explained that in a recent post. Notice I said "usually". Bottom line is, whatever works for you. I really think it's mostly about pre-heating the mold and having lead at the right temperature. Mould manufacturers recommend smoking the molds but I know other folks that don't either.

 

[Nappers]

If you haven't bought a furnace yet. I just recently purchased a Lyman Big Dipper kit. Comes with a 10lb cap lead furnace, dipper, ingot mold, bullet lubes and Lyman's excellent new casting lead bullets book with lots of information.

I just recently melted scrap lead to the tune of 100+ lbs. Once people know you are looking for lead, they come running.

Now I have enough lead for approx. 3700 balls.

I bought the Lee round ball molds, .490 and .495 respectfully.

The lyman and lee furnaces are similar with reviews. Just take care of them and it will last forever.

When I'm done with a melting session, I use a brass brush and knock out the residual lead and coat with a spray oil (I used REM oil) and put it away. And when I start, I plug it in and let all the oil burn off prior to melting. The ingot mold is great, makes 1lb ingots. Haven't used the ball molds yet, next week maybe. The kit was 72 bucks at my local Sportsman Warehouse.

Have fun

 

[MSW]

Nappers, you did good. I'm glad to see that there are still kits out there so that you can get started running ball without having to do a big 'dance around the flagpole.'