Been using Fiebings alcohol dyes for 50 years. I like to copy the colors of original guns , and leather dye is the only way I can do it. I started out using chemicals like the "experts " in the gun building say to do. If you like dark stain , , or stain that covers over figure in the wood being colored , and even stain that over time fades out to yellow/green ,use chemical stains. Once you learn to use alcohol stains , all of a sudden you discover a whole different range of colors available by changing the % of color to alcohol. The depth of figure , is controlled by applying black leather dye first. For soft wood , cut the intensity of the black with 90% alcohol. IE , on white /soft , but curly maple , 25% straight black dye , is all needed to enhance the figure , curl , etc.. For curly figure found in hard maple , a higher % of black dye can be used ,up to 50% black for the hardest maple and again , less for softer maple. Next for the color . The color can be applied over the black. Original Pa. longrifles were orangish /black , tanish / black , redish /black. The most amazing original Jaeger rifle I've heldin my hands , was stained a pale see through, green color , on a hard white birdseye figure wood , with 3mm sized blue , red and green colored flowers painted on it. Any alcohol stain is applied with a heat gun / hair dryer , to dry it immediately , then OOOO grade steel wool to dewhisker the wood. Another feature of using alcohol stain is using heat to dry the wood is fast. Once the desired coloration is reached , the first coat of sealer can be applied. no wasting time waiting for an oil stain to dry. I hope someony out there can be helped by this.............oldwood