leather to hold the flint

[Grenadier1758]

Drop by your local resale shop, Goodwill, where ever used clothing is sold. Go to the belt section and look for a soft belt that is as wide as your flint or the jaws of the cock. Cut a section as @Loyalist Dave shows. I personally think the leather from the brand tag on some blue jeans is too thin.

 

[Art Caputo]

While I have used lead on occasion with my large locks(ie.Queen Anne), leather for the majority of my shooting.

 

[Packrat]

While I agree on the use of Leather, I wonder why the Military used lead.
Any thoughts ?

 

[Grenadier1758]

A flattened musket ball is the right size for a flint wrap. There is also a belief that the extra weight of the lead wrap will make the flint strike the frizzen harder and produce more sparks making firing more reliable.

 

[saaman]

I have no problem with lead or leather though lead may give a slightly faster ignition.

 

[toot]

an old pants belt.

 

[toot]

While I agree on the use of Leather, I wonder why the Military used lead.
Any thoughts ?

becaues a lead ball was easier at hand than leather!

 

[Tom Compton]

So for a civilian lock, you want to use leather, BUT you want the back of the flint to rest upon the jaw screw. You want the rough side of the leather against the flint.

I use cowhide or elkhide, and there are two basic methods. The top method in the illustration puts the jaw screw through the two holes when the leather is folded and placed in the cock jaws. This keeps the leather from being lost IF the flint slips out. The second illustration simply leaves an open groove for the back of the flint wrapped within the leather to rest naked upon the jaw screw. I've always found more reliable sparking this way, and as extant jaw leathers and leads have such an opening, this seems to be correct.

View attachment 76207

LD

I like the 2 hole system!

 

[Newtire]

So for a civilian lock, you want to use leather, BUT you want the back of the flint to rest upon the jaw screw. You want the rough side of the leather against the flint.

I use cowhide or elkhide, and there are two basic methods. The top method in the illustration puts the jaw screw through the two holes when the leather is folded and placed in the cock jaws. This keeps the leather from being lost IF the flint slips out. The second illustration simply leaves an open groove for the back of the flint wrapped within the leather to rest naked upon the jaw screw. I've always found more reliable sparking this way, and as extant jaw leathers and leads have such an opening, this seems to be correct.

View attachment 76207

LD

Great Illustration.

 

[ormond tony]

Do you need "real" leather? Or can you use "synthetic" type you find in golf gloves?

 

[user 49399]

I’ve never tried “synthetic” but don’t see why it wouldn’t work.

 

[oldwood]

Old leather wallets from 2nd hand store. 20 yrs ago found a grey one and a red one. Very stylish

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Do you need "real" leather? Or can you use "synthetic" type you find in golf gloves?

Well first that stuff is kinda thin if you get it from a golf, driving, or batting glove.
Second, your pan flashes upwards. Most of the flash is actually wasted. The lower side of the leather in the jaws is going to get "cooked" a bit. Synthetic leather would then suffer as I think (don't know) it's not made to take that heat. Real leather stiffens and scorches but remains intact. I think an old pair of leather work gloves that have finally worn out would give you some leather scraps from the tops of the fingers where they meet the hand, if one was scrounging.

LD

 

[Flintleather]

Old leather wallets from 2nd hand store. 20 yrs ago found a grey one and a red one. Very stylish

I also cut up my old wallet when i get a new one. The leather is soft and just the right thickness.

 

[user 36911]

If you don't want to hunt down the right leather. Here you go. It works good.

https://www.octobercountry.com/flint-leather/

 

[Notchy Bob]

I like supple leather of about 4 ounce weight. The accepted rule of thumb is that 1 ounce "weight" would equal about 1/64" thickness, so four ounce leather would be (theoretically) about 1/16" thick. In reality, it's a little bulkier than that. I have some chrome tanned elk leather and some milled veg tan of about 4 oz. weight which works well for me. I've tried sheet lead and found it is hard to keep the flint tight. I have to really crank down on the top jaw screw and don't like putting that much torque on the cock. For me, leather is more forgiving and easier to keep tight.

Someone suggested a locknut on the top jaw screw to keep it from loosening, but I would respectfully disagree. It has been my impression that the screw isn't backing out, but the leather (or lead) pad is compressing or moulding itself to the flint. You have to tighten the screw periodically to compensate.

For me, one "leather" will outlast several flints. If you re-use the leather, it has already been compressed, and you don't have to re-tighten as much.

Just my impressions, based on my own observations. Yours may be different.

Notchy Bob

 

[appalichian hunter]

Use a section from your wifes purse, just cut it out kind of ragged that way when she finds it you can blame it on the dog. I like a bit of elk soft and compresses well in the cock jaws. All this hoora about buying pre cut leathers is for the want of sense, save the coin for important things like lead and powder.

 

[user 36911]

Save the leather for mocs.

 

[starman]

When orienting the flint in the jaws, whether leather or lead is used, I see some have the flat edge up and some have it down. Is there any reason that one orientation is better than the other?

 

[user 36911]

Depends on the lock and the flint. Experiment to get the best spark.