• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Lee Moulds

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I have a variety of moulds, both steel and aluminum. Since the early days of using all moulds, I bought two bottles of mould prep from Rapine. This is a graphite compound. After casting lead ball, while the mould is still warm, I will dip a q-tip into the mould prep and wipe all the contact surfaces with the graphite compound. It flash dries quickly and the mould is ready for the next casting session. It works well on both steel and aluminum.
 
I have a few lee molds and like them a lot. I clean a new mold with Dawn dish detergent and a soft toothbrush. Rinse well with cold water. I do smoke the cavities with a Bic lighter. I use synthetic 2 stroke oil applied with a Q-tip to the sprue plate and alignment pins. Use a very light touch when applying the oil, you do not need much.
 
Smoking or other mold release is for a mold release. It's a different purpose than pre-heating the mold.

I smoked my Lee molds at first, but decades ago changed to using Rapine Mold Prep and now that Rapine is out of business am using a dry graphite spray. You don't have to do this much, just at first and later after casting a couple of hundred and the bullets start sticking because your coating is worn away.

By the way I do this on any brand of mold, aluminum or iron.

Pre-heating the mold makes it more likely that your mold will fill correctly,
If you don't pre-heat then you can cast a bunch of balls to get the mold hot enough, But why aggravate yourself with bad casting? Pre heat on top of the lead pot.
 
I degrease them with acetone and smoke them with either wooden matches or a candle. I let the mould pre-heat and cast and cull the first few until they come out correctly.
 
I just got my first Lee mould but I have done casting in the past with cast iron moulds. I have done some research and I am well aware of what Lee says to do in there included instruction booklet. Just curious because I have read where some guys do and some guys dont smoke there moulds. Do you guys smokem or just preheat them on a hot plate a couple of times before using them.
CLEAN WELL FIRST, the mould will have some oil on it. Have used Lee moulds for some 40 to 50 years. They work well if you treat they right.
 
Thanks for all the responses. Im an Amsoil dealer and right now intend on using there 2 cycle oil to lube the sprue pivot and mould pins. I havent decided yet on the smoking the cavities but I fully intend on cleaning the mould good with carb cleaner or alcohol. Im going to order another one eventually in a different size. I was hoping to find a 6 cavity mould in 535 but I havent found one yet.
 
I cast on a campfire, set mold next to embers to prehe and then cast away.
 
Since sooting a mold is initially recommended, has anybody tried using graphite powder for this? It's only about $5 for the little tubes.
 
No I have not used the graphite powder which is for locks. I now use a spray can of Frankford Arsenal Drop-Out.
I think it sprays the smae stiuff as Ramine Mold Prep did, which i used to apply with a Q-tip: finely divided carbon in alcohol. Much more finely divided than the stuff for locks.
 
Thanks for all the responses. Im an Amsoil dealer and right now intend on using there 2 cycle oil to lube the sprue pivot and mould pins. I havent decided yet on the smoking the cavities but I fully intend on cleaning the mould good with carb cleaner or alcohol. Im going to order another one eventually in a different size. I was hoping to find a 6 cavity mould in 535 but I havent found one yet.

I use synthetic 2 cycle oil as a sprue and pin lube. Just a small amount on a q tip will do it.

Once in a while 4 cavity molds Lyman molds show up on eBay. I have snagged 440, 445, and 490 round ball 4 bangers. They are heavy and built like tanks, probably never wear out absent rust. Once you get them preheated, they maintain temps well and you can cast until you drop. My last session with the 490 mold produced over 700 balls before I cried uncle.
 
I just got my first Lee mould but I have done casting in the past with cast iron moulds. I have done some research and I am well aware of what Lee says to do in there included instruction booklet. Just curious because I have read where some guys do and some guys dont smoke there moulds. Do you guys smokem or just preheat them on a hot plate a couple of times before using them.
I let the mold tell me what it needs. I degrease it then cast a few and see how they drop. The aluminum usually heats up quickly. If the balls drop easily i leave her be, if not I'll try some smoke and see what happens. Usually that's all I need to do.
 
Back
Top