The REAS have been around for at last 30 years.I bought them maybe 10 or 15 years ago...right after they advertised the design. I'll see if I can dig some out and post an image...I don't think the design changed?
The REAS have been around for at last 30 years.I bought them maybe 10 or 15 years ago...right after they advertised the design. I'll see if I can dig some out and post an image...I don't think the design changed?
Wow that means that I bought them 30 years ago...feels like less time than that...The REAS have been around for at last 30 years.
I was tired...mea culpa... YES I meant OVER powder wad...I always had problems getting the charge to ignite when I used an under powder wad. By the way I am sure you meant an over powder wad.
I use it In my 50 cal. And also in my 58 cal. Infield no lube works great can run 15 or 20 rounds no problems very accurateWonder if anyone has any experience in using a Lee REAL bullet in their rifles? Going to see how it works in my Traditions St Louis Hawken. 50 cal .Does it clean the bore while shooting or is that false. I'm waiting on a Lee mold that's a combo .490 round ball and a 320 grain REAL bullet. Guess if the REAL bullet doesn't perform I can always just use the round ball.
Out of curiosity, WHY is a wad "essential"?Where are you getting your REAL molds? I have several and NONE of them have a hollow point, dimple or ANY such nonsense. They ALL have a flat meplat, or nose if you will. An under powder wad is essential. And they do come in 2 weights, the heaver one for fast twist.
A over powder wad is not essential but sometimes it helps seal gases better improving accuracy. If yours are shooting to your liking, I wouldn't bother. I use to have a gun that shot them very, very good as is. Wish I still had that gun.Out of curiosity, WHY is a wad "essential"?
I've never used a wad in any of my muzzleloaders; rifle, pistol, or revolver.
PRB or conical.
All hit where I was aiming.
and what is this UNDER powder wad of which you speak?!?
Not my experience with conical bullets...the maxi-ball will shoot strait through soft tissue and not upset and expand. Though I never recovered those bullets, the entrance and exit wounds were nearly identical, meaning almost zero expansion.
RBs mushroom great...
I agree with your observations about maxi-balls not expanding, but in my experience, you could not be more wrong about conical bullets in general not expanding. In testing done years ago (before everyone had a phone with a camera, so no photographs), found that the top band or ring on the maxi-ball collapsed back into the large lube ring just under it, creating what could almost be called a spire point when shot into soft tissue. Conicals with a wide flat nose or a hollow point expand reliably in soft tissue. Believe this is the major reason TC came out with their Maxi-Hunter design after their Max-Ball had over penetration and poor expansion issues. My testing was done with 54 caliber Maxi-Balls and Maxi-Hunters cast from TC molds using ‘pure’ lead. Using the same gun and powder charge, the expansion difference was dramatic.Not my experience with conical bullets...the maxi-ball will shoot strait through soft tissue and not upset and expand. Though I never recovered those bullets, the entrance and exit wounds were nearly identical, meaning almost zero expansion.
RBs mushroom great...
I agree with your observations about maxi-balls not expanding, but in my experience, you could not be more wrong about conical bullets in general not expanding. In testing done years ago (before everyone had a phone with a camera, so no photographs), found that the top band or ring on the maxi-ball collapsed back into the large lube ring just under it, creating what could almost be called a spire point when shot into soft tissue. Conicals with a wide flat nose or a hollow point expand reliably in soft tissue. Believe this is the major reason TC came out with their Maxi-Hunter design after their Max-Ball had over penetration and poor expansion issues. My testing was done with 54 caliber Maxi-Balls and Maxi-Hunters cast from TC molds using ‘pure’ lead. Using the same gun and powder charge, the expansion difference was dramatic.
I have used a slightly heavier than 400 grain bullet from a RCBS .44-370-FN mold that @Idaho Ron suggested for paper patching a number of years ago. Probably taken 15 deer with it out to 165 yards. Mostly pass throughs, but exit is usually obviously larger than the entry. I use a 20 to 1 alloy. Fills the mold well, accurate to 300
Plus yards and performs great on game.
That’s very similar to my cast RCBS 11mm that I have recovered. Good bullet. Have no performance complaints.That last picture I posted is a 11mm rifle bullet.
Out of curiosity, WHY is a wad "essential"?
I've never used a wad in any of my muzzleloaders; rifle, pistol, or revolver.
PRB or conical.
All hit where I was aiming.
and what is this UNDER powder wad of which you speak?!?
Out of curiosity, WHY is a wad "essential"?
I've never used a wad in any of my muzzleloaders; rifle, pistol, or revolver.
PRB or conical.
All hit where I was aiming.
and what is this UNDER powder wad of which you speak?!?
In my opinion drilling out the tip a Maxi-Ball is a last option of desperation if looking for an expanding conical. Many other better choices.Buffalo Bullets...work great.
If you drill out the tip of the Maxi-Ball...they work great.
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