Lehigh County kit build and intro.

[gilgsn]

Hello everyone,

This is my first post to this forum, which I have been reading for some time. Actually, I did browse through all the threads, and those of the hunting forum as well. It took me days but I did learn a lot. I am 43, and live in Sarasota Florida. I used to shoot cap & ball revolvers when I was a teenager, and started missing black powder shooting. Which brings me to this post...

I have just ordered a Lehigh County stock and 42'' 7/8th .50 GM barrel from Pecatonica. I hesitated between the Lehigh and the Schweitzer.. They look very similar, so in the end, “Lehigh County” sounded better for an “American long rifle.” Another hard choice was between .45 and .50. I hope to hunt with it some day, and we have a lot of wild pigs in Florida. From reading the hunting forum it seems like .50 would be better.. I am hoping to find a private land owner with a hog problem! Oh, and it will be of course a flintlock. If GM had made a .45 with a 1-48 twist, I would have opted for the .45. Oh well, maybe for a future build...

So, the rifle, as a first build, won't be a showpiece. I do not care too much about period correctness and will probably opt for a modern finish on the barrel; not sure about the stock yet (Curly Maple #3), but Tru-Oil sounds good. Would anyone have suggestions about the best weatherproof finish? I haven't ordered the other parts. The lock is supposed to be the L & R Durs Egg, which I hope isn't more fragile than a Siler, because of it's apparent complexity. I am getting all the inletting mostly done, sight dovetails on the barrel, as well as the staples and breech plug installed.

Anyway, I plan on documenting the whole process with photos and videos. Suggestions are welcome

Ya'll have a happy new year!

Gil.

 

[F_Thomas]

Sounds nice! Post Pic's

 

[Zonie]

Welcome to the Forum.

I'm sure our members will be more than happy to answer any question you have about your new project so, don't be bashful.

We will look forward to your next post.

 

[CaptainKirk]

Welcome, Gil! Sounds like you've done your homework well. I'm with ya on the modern finish, I prefer a nicely done blued barrel myself.
As far as Tru Oil, can't vouch for it myself. My buddy Goody just finished a GPR finished with tung oil, and it's gorgeous! http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/251755/
You've come to the right place, alright! Welcome back! :wink:

 

[gilgsn]

Thanks guys. As far as barrel finish, I have a 48'' stainless steel parkerizing tank and might go for that.. I like the dark gray, almost black finish, and once oiled, it will be very well protected from the elements. I know some people will cringe to read this, but again, I will be building a "utility gun."

I do want the stock to look good, and if I am not mistaking, the required steps in order, please someone correct me if I'm wrong, are:
- Sanding, using alcohol to raise the grain at the end, before fine sanding.
- Sealer
- Stain (which one for maple?)
- Oil (How many coats for Tru-Oil?)
Sealer before stain doesn't seem logical...?

I should get the stock and barrel in a couple weeks, and will post again then!

 

[Zonie]

IMO, talking about finishing the stock at this stage is kinda getting the cart in front of the horse but as you asked, the first step is to study as many photos of original rifles like the one you want to build as you can noticing how thin the stock and forend really is on a real one.

With that information in mind, the first stock finishing envolves removing a LOT of the wood that will be on your "pre-carved" stock.
It is intentionally left with a lot of extra wood so the builder can modify it to the final shape they want.

After thinning and shaping the forestock, the wrist, the side panals and the butt then you will finally get to the fine sanding. Do NOT use any sandpaper with a grit finer than 220.
As a side note, I like the red garnet paper much better than the flint or aluminum oxide papers. It seems to stay sharp longer.

After the sanding is done you will want to whisker the wood with Water. Alcohol will not raise the grain which explains why alcohol is the preferred base for stains.

Maple does not require any sealer and if it did, you would want to apply the stain before you applied it.

The stain you choose should be an alcohol based stain. IMO, you should Never use an oil based stain on a gunstock.
An alternate "stain" is Aqua Fortis, an acid based fluid based on nitric acid and dissolved iron. It requires a high heat to cause the final change of color and you cannot control what this final color will be. It's a function of the AF and the wood and each wood will react differently.

I've had good luck with Birchwood Casey Walnut stain on my curly maple stocks. I often apply coats of Solar-Lux stains in Maple or Mahogany if I want a little different tint.

The number of coats of Tru-Oil you use is up to you but I would say you should have a minimum of 3. Many of my guns have over 12 coats, very lightly sanded between coats with 600 grit wet/dry paper.

I know your going to enjoy this new hobby, but be warned: This hobby gets into your blood and you will be wanting to build more before this rifle is finished.

 

[Birddog6]

First thing right off the bat I would is call Dick & change the lock to a Siler or a Ketland. No way I would use a L&R lock. You have enough to deal with learning to build a rifle, leave out lock problems & issues..

For now, Forget the finish... :wink: Build the rifle first. :grin:

On a Precarve:

Lock inlet first
then Barrel Inlet to proper vent position
then Trigger inlet
then proceed from there.

Look at Mike Brooks tutorial & you will learn allot.

As for the finish, I never use a sealer before a stain. Sand down to 320, stain with Danglers stain, finish with Tru-Oil. Have done Dozens of them this way & with excellent results on all of them. You can make the Tru-oil look like any finish you want with some practice. And it will seal the wood & it is Waterproof, unlike most other finishes, with exception to Permalyn, as it is waterproof as well & finishes very much like Tru-Oil.

Keith Lisle

 

[matt denison]

" Sealer
- Stain (which one for maple?)" :shake:

that's backwards

Think of this: if you seal the wood how are you going to get stain to soak in?

 

[geb324]

I agree with Birddog go with a Siler Lock
You will be glad you did
G

 

[hoochiepapa]

There are so many people with experience here, that it's hard to find something to add, other than GO SLOWLY! I am an impatient person, and that is a very hard thing for me. I have to remove a little wood and stop, then go back in a few days and look again. Especially on the forend. Like Zonie was saying, getting that down to where it should ba can be nerve wracking. :shocked2:
And a purty rifle can be a utility gun. Lots of the forum use fancy rifles for everyday, and think nothing of it. So don't short change yourself, you might be sorry.
Good Luck!! :hatsoff:

 

[Goldhunter]

Welcome, Gil!

Switch the lock if there is still time.

I know you mentioned you are not too concerned about period correctness but there are some "PC" things that need to be done to make it not look like a hunk of wood with metal attached. What the others said about taking off wood is correct. On a LR the barrel supports the forend, not the other way around. :wink:

Maple can be stained a number of ways, as has been said earlier. Some good options have been listed. With a grade 3 from Dick, IMO, you NEED to make the figure stand out. Dick grades his stocks a bit high (many think) so you should be getting a nice piece of wood. I think you'll be disappointed if the figure gets muddied up. Ask questions when you get to that point. There are gunmakers on here that are masters at making wood figure POP.

Look at lots of pictures to see what you like. Search this forum and you'll see some handsome rifles these guys have made. And they are full of info. :thumbsup:

There are lots of good finishes. Many like Tru-oil. If you entertaining other options Chambers Oil finish is good as is the LMF finish. You can leave them shiny or dull them down; either way finish it how you want it.

Again, welcome!

 

[gilgsn]

Thank you very much everyone! I am getting a wealth of information here, couldn't hope for any better :grin: I will try to change the lock then, if Siler is better.. Hopefully it won't be too late.

It sounds like I will be spending a lot of time sanding down the forestock, and that's fine with me. No cutting corners..

Touch hole placement, drilling and tapping for a liner is what worries me most.. A lot of people seem to like the "white lightnin." I wish there was a tutorial on how to install one. Apparently there is more than just tap/drill involved (I do have a drill press)..

Got to go buy some sandpaper now :wink:

Gil.

 

[Birddog6]

If you get the vent liner kit from Jim Chambers, & get the Tap, Drill,& V/Liner, the instructions come with it. The W/L vent liner I got from TOW last time was a knockoff, not a real Chambers vent liner. Close but no cigar.

Keith Lisle

 

[Goldhunter]

Gil, a good wood file will help with wood removal and save your elbow from massive sanding with paper. The Nicholson #50 wood rasp is a little less aggressive than the #49, so it'll take a little less wood off but still have rapid removal of bulk. Rasp the wood down to level you want the clean up with sandpaper or scrapers. I use the #50 or #49 rasp followed by a less aggressive wood file to clean up any deep marks.

When you get to that stage ask questions. Help is just a post away.

Kieth, that's intersting to hear. I ordered a WL from them back in Sept I think. How did you figure it was not a genuine Chambers?

 

[hoochiepapa]

I use a microplane to get the wood down close, then wood files, and sandpaper. Microplanes move wood fast, but you can go hard and heavy or lightly. Again, go slowly, take your time. :hatsoff:

 

[Goldhunter]

I have used micro planes. I used on my Lehigh to get he flat I needed on the forstock. But I haven't have much luck with using a plane on curved areas where I can control a file better.

But I am in no way an expert, just a guy that likes to tinker with guns.

 

[Birddog6]

Kieth, that's intersting to hear. I ordered a WL from them back in Sept I think. How did you figure it was not a genuine Chambers?

I saw that it was made differently right off the bat, because I have used probably 3 dozen WL liners. The top lug was more rounded off than the original & the cone was a tad dif. inside, a straighter cone than Chambers W/L Liner. I took it to Jim Chambers at Friendship & showed it to him & he confirmed it was not one he designed & made, but one someone else had made.

Now could have been a fluke. It was in a kit that was all in a TOW box & was all supposed to have been from TOW, but it was sent to me by the customer, so I didn't actually get it directly from TOW. All the parts were in bags with TOW numbers & tags on it. And possibly a oddball someone played with & got tossed in the bin, thinking it was one of Jim's. All I know is it was dif. & I always get mine directly from Chambers..

Keith Lisle

 

[hoochiepapa]

They make curved ones, like a cigar. I destroyed one that I got a Woodcraft, it broke right at the handle. I guess I got a little too vigorous. :redface:

 

[gilgsn]

Hello,

If you get the vent liner kit from Jim Chambers, & get the Tap, Drill,& V/Liner

Yes, I did see it.. I as surprised that it mentioned only one tap. I remember using three years ago for something else.. I can always call and ask I guess..

a good wood file will help with wood removal

Why didn't I think of that! Thanks!

use a microplane

Will check them out..

I got my parkerizing tank today, 48'' stainless steel:

I can't wait to get the stock and barrel.. Now I need to look at all those photos and determine how thick/thin the forestock has to be. By the way I couldn't reach Dick by phone, but sent him an email about changing to a Siler.. Thanks for the suggestions!

Gil.

 

[Goldhunter]

The W/L liner uses one tap, and a countersink for the angled shoulder. It's pretty easy. Just go slow, clear the tap OFTEN, and use some good oil.

Gil, if you haven't get a good book to reference. There is a thread on here that talks about recommendations. The book along with asking questions here has helped me immensely in the past.

Also, the forestock is generally (NUG) between 1/8 and 1/16 thick (on the side of the barrel). If I'm wrong on this someone much more knowledgeable than me will wet that straight.

It seems odd. I know the first time I went that thin I was pretty nervous.