LMF browning

[barebackjack]

Hey all,

Im getting ready to brown my barrel and hardware this weekend. Just got a few quick questions.

I have a nice cork I saved to plug the muzzle end, but what do you guys use to plug the nipple end? Can I just screw in an appropriate threaded bolt?
Ive set an entire day aside this weekend to accomplish this. The instructions say to put coats on at 3 hour intervals. Ive heard people say that you need high humidity to get good results, the humidity has been 70% and higher here, is that enough? or should I throw it in the bathroom while showering?

If I get the instructions right, I put a coat on, let it sit three hours, card the scaling off, and repeat until I get the color I want????????

Thanks for all the help guys.

Boone

 

[chuck-ia]

as humid as it is here in Iowa, I would think it would be great for browning. I browned a barrel this spring when the humidity was down and just took a little longer. flinch

 

[Vaino]

I use a makeshift sweat box and let the initial thin coat sit for 10-12 hours and then apply the 2nd thin "coat" w/o carding and then let that coat sit for 10-12 hours. The bbl is then carded w/ a piece of denim and these 2 coats yield a nice matte finish which is followed by a thin coat and carding every 3 hrs. until the desired color is achieved. Don't rub the solution on very hard otherwise a copper layer is produced which retards the rusting and a barely wet patch is the best applicator. I use household ammonia to kill the process...tried baking soda and it didn't stop the after rust completely. 70 relative humidity should work fine w/ this system...Fred

 

[Le Grand]

Boone, Just follow the instructions. You can let it sit for longer than 3 hours between applications. And, your cork in the muzzle shouldn't be needed. After all, you won't be applying the brown to the bore. Wipe that browing solution on very thin, for sure don't let it "puddle." It might take two or three days but you'll get a brown that you like. Le Grand

 

[Birddog6]

The last 3 rifles I have borwned I have done in the bathroom. Block off the air duct, turn the shower on hot & let it steam it up room while I apply the browning solution. Use a cotton ball & just wet it, not dripping wety, just wet it. Go in even strokes on each flat from end to end. I have dowels I tap into the muzzles for each calibers. I swab the barrels good first with Ballistol, drive in the dowel & put a toothpick in the vent hole & cut it off about 1/4" long. Support the barrel on the dowel & tang on 2 2x2x6" blocks on the lavatory with a old shower curtain under it. Do the bottom first & turn it over & do the sides & the top flats last.
Apply solution, leave it sit for 3 hrs, card & apply again, repeat & each time I steam the bathroom up real good. (I use a Dixel Wheel from Brownel's to card with) Do this 6-7 applications & card each time & then neutralize it & then rub it down for couple days to be sure it is stopped rusting & you have it done. I did one on last Sat. morning at 4am & by 10pm that night I was done, & on Monday I put the rifle together & that evening I shipped the rifle.
On the small parts I use a Q'tip to apply the solution. I wear Nitrile rubber gloves when handling the barrel & don't put them on til I get in to where the barrel is & don't touch Anything but barrel & parts.
(One time I had some spots on one barrel that would not brown, seems like I had previously grabbed a doorknob in the shop with oil on my hands & everytime I would go in there with the latex gloves on I contaminated the gloves...... good lesson learned)

Anyway, I prefer to do it outside when it is going to rain for 2-3 days, let the hunidity build the first day & brown the second day & every time I have been successful on doing it. But it has been so dry & has not rained for so long here I resorted to the bathroom again to brown & it does good. It has been so dry here 2 water buffalo at the zoo evaporated yesterday..... :hmm:

PS: When you are done, make sure you run the exhaust fan for 24 hrs or your wifes wallpaper may be on the floor !! :shake:

 

[Old40Rod]

but what do you guys use to plug the nipple end? Can I just screw in an appropriate threaded bolt?

I just shove in a little chunk of beeswax. When you are done hot water melts it right out.

 

[54JNoll]

You have already gotten great advice. I typically plug the bore with a wooden plug and stock a toothpick in the nipple hole or touch hole. While it may not be neccessary it feels like good insurance to me.

Like the others have said, "less is more" when it comes to applying the solution. Also you may only get a greenish coloration on the barrel after the first application. If so, then DO NOT card it at this point. Simply apply another thin coat and wait. Once you see orangish rust you can begin the carding part of the routine.

But yes you simply keep repeating the process until you get a color you like.

If you want to turn it darker you can pour boiling water over it at the end. This really darkens the color up to a very dark brown almost black. The color change is not reversable either so if you decide you do not like it you would have to polish the finish off and start over.

You can do a rust blue by boiling the barrel after each rusting cycle. Again the color change is perminent.

 

[Vaino]

I haven't had 2 browning jobs come out exactly the same even w/ the sweat box which lends some consistency to the process. A flash hole liner is used and a small, round piece of Scotch tape is used to plug the FH and a dowel is used at the muzzle. As the process procedes, you'll have to make slight adjustments as to the amount of time between applications....I prefer a darker plum brown, so go w/ more coats. LMF will yield a nice brown and the only degreasing I do is a wash w/ Dawn and a warm water rinse. Hopefully there's no oil or grease in the seam at the bbl and tang and on a lock w/ a detacheable pan, it's better to do them separately. Good luck!.....Fred

 

[Tim Clark]

...I swab the barrels good first with Ballistol, drive in the dowel & put a toothpick in the vent hole & cut it off about 1/4" long...

Birddog6, I'm curious about your use of Ballistol prior to using the LMF. Doesn't it affect the process? Does it need to be degreased after the Ballistol? Thanks in advance.

 

[Old40Rod]

I'm curious about your use of Ballistol prior to using the LMF. Doesn't it affect the process?

I think he means the inside of the barrel, to prevent any rusting in the bore.... :winking:

 

[bennypapa]

What is LMF?

 

[Vaino]

Laurel Mountain Forge {LMF} Browning and Degreaser and it's sold at many MLer supply houses.....Fred

 

[renovato]

I've found an easy way to make a humidity cabinet for browning. I just use a small closet. I can hang the barrel and parts from the clothes rack in the closet, set some damp cloth in the bottom for humidity, and in winter, I put in a small electric "foot heater" that I got cheap at Home Depot. This keeps a good temperature and humidity level without all the effort of building a specialty cabinet. It's worth a try.