Well, looks like I'll be getting a Sea Service Musket in a month or so and I'd like to try and work out some loads to try before I get it. I'll be using 3fg powder since that's what I've got on hand. I thought an 80 gr. charge would be a good starting point since that's the same load I use in my 50 cal rifle so I won't have to adjust my powder measure from gun to gun. Would a .735" round ball be about right, I can get a Lyman mold from Midway U.S.A. for that size ball for about $50 bucks. I'll adjust the patch to get a nice "slip fit" so it'll be just tight enough to load easily but not so tight as to need a short starter. What about shot loads, I have a bunch of Circle Fly 12 ga. wads left over from a shotgun that I had but I'm not sure if they'll work in the 75 cal or not. Anyway, any help will be appreciated. Talk to ya'll later.
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Loading advice for 38" Getz barrel, .75-cal.
- Thread starter TN.Frank
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Depending of bore diameter, a .735 patched ball will probably be hard to load. Most folks I know that shoot .735 balls shoot 'em bare. They're to large to work in paper cartridges too.
You might want to check the bore diameter prior to buying a mould. Is the bore 11, or 12 gauge? An 11 gauge bore mics .750, where a 12 mics .730. A .735 ball will be REAL tight in a 12 bore. :winking:
The rule of thumb I use for determing patch thickness is to subtract the ball diameter from bore diameter, then divide that answer by two to get a good idea of the patch thickness.
For example; .750-.735=.015/2=.0075 patch thickness. IMHO, that will be a very difficult combination to load.
A .715 ball patched with .017-.020 patch in front of 80 gr. FFG should shoot well.
For a 12 bore, .730-.700=.030/2=.015 patch thickness.
J.D.
You might want to check the bore diameter prior to buying a mould. Is the bore 11, or 12 gauge? An 11 gauge bore mics .750, where a 12 mics .730. A .735 ball will be REAL tight in a 12 bore. :winking:
The rule of thumb I use for determing patch thickness is to subtract the ball diameter from bore diameter, then divide that answer by two to get a good idea of the patch thickness.
For example; .750-.735=.015/2=.0075 patch thickness. IMHO, that will be a very difficult combination to load.
A .715 ball patched with .017-.020 patch in front of 80 gr. FFG should shoot well.
For a 12 bore, .730-.700=.030/2=.015 patch thickness.
J.D.
I have some pillow tickin' that was too thick to use with my 40 or 50 cal rifles, it might just work with a .715" ball. I can get a Lyman mold in .715 for the same price as the .735". I'll wait until I get the musket then check the bore dia. before I order a mold.
In the Pedersoli Bess i had, a .690 ball with a thick denim patdh worked good. You can get a Lee .690 mould from Midsouth for under $20.
I think Midway U.S.A. had .690 Lee round ball molds for around $15, at least that's what I paid for the .395" round ball form em' a while back. I'll check the barre with the calipers and see how it mikes out. Then I'll check my patch matrial and see what I come up with. Running a smaller ball would save me some lead but I want one that'll fit and shoot right too.
The Lee .690 is $17.12 through Midsouth. I have found in my smoothbores that they shoot better with an over powder wad, a lubed fiber cushion wad and then the patched rd ball. The lubed wad helps keep fouling soft and the over powder wad scrapes it off after each shot. I can shoot all day without bore wiping this way.
Mike Brooks
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You can try your 12 ga wads, but they might be to loose for an 11 bore.
Russianblood
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Rebel said:
I found out the same thing in my 20 gauge Northwest Trade Gun. I shot for 2 hours without a single bore swabbing. It also gave me the best accuracy.
My next experiment is with .610 round balls loaded bare like a shot load.
paulvallandigham
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If the gun IS a .75 Caliber, you will need to use larger over powder, cushion, and cards. Probably 11 ga., but you may even had to go up to 10 ga. Until the gun arrives, you can't guess, as these guns are all over the map when it comes to barrel dimensions. Remember this is a smootbore, and the patch thickness is critical. There are no grooves for the fabric to squeeze down into so that a tight patch can still work. To some extent, with all smoothbores, the patch thickness controls the choice of ball diameter, as you can usually find different size molds for any given caliber.
I agree on the recommendation to use an over powder wad, then a cushion wad, and then seat the PRB. The cushion softens the crud, and the wad scrapes it out of the barrel. Minimum concern about cleaning the gun all day long is the result. You asked about that 80 Gr. load of FFFg. I think it is a good starting place, and should give you good accuracy out to 50 yds.
I agree on the recommendation to use an over powder wad, then a cushion wad, and then seat the PRB. The cushion softens the crud, and the wad scrapes it out of the barrel. Minimum concern about cleaning the gun all day long is the result. You asked about that 80 Gr. load of FFFg. I think it is a good starting place, and should give you good accuracy out to 50 yds.
Maybe so, but my way you will get more consistant velocities and no burned patches. And i am not telling people that my way is the only way, or the only right way, just telling them what i have found that works for me, and may help them too.
I do the same as Swampman mentioned except I add some Bee's wax so the patch is less oily to handle.
Works well so far with up to 130 gr. loads (settled on 110/2Fg) No burnt patches and no wads to contend with (used patches over and over as a test up to 8 times before failure).
For the .750 ish bore, 11 gage wads for shot is called for (sorry), 12 ga. just too loose.
However, if you decide to try paper carts, 1/2 of them 12ga. fiber wads may be nice in the patch under the ball. (something I've thought of trying)
Works well so far with up to 130 gr. loads (settled on 110/2Fg) No burnt patches and no wads to contend with (used patches over and over as a test up to 8 times before failure).
For the .750 ish bore, 11 gage wads for shot is called for (sorry), 12 ga. just too loose.
However, if you decide to try paper carts, 1/2 of them 12ga. fiber wads may be nice in the patch under the ball. (something I've thought of trying)
I guess that is the BEST way for you then.
Like our forefathers, I use very heavy patching and a smaller ball. The patches never burn through. Frequently they used buckskin.
I just remembered that my friend won a match against rifles, using no patching at all with his "Type G" last fall. He roughed the balls up by rolling them around under a course rasp. He never had to wipe between shots. The burrs kicked up by the rasp held the ball tight against the powder and scraped the fouling off the barrel walls when loading.
I just remembered that my friend won a match against rifles, using no patching at all with his "Type G" last fall. He roughed the balls up by rolling them around under a course rasp. He never had to wipe between shots. The burrs kicked up by the rasp held the ball tight against the powder and scraped the fouling off the barrel walls when loading.
Swampman said:
Wouldn't buckskin be too inconsistent in thickness to provide a reliable patch, I have skunned and fleshed a few yards of buckskin in my day (doeskin too), I know the fleshing part varies the overall thickness of the hide as you scrape stubborn fats off with the hide over a beam, as does stretching, tanning and drying...
Gerry Barker a friend of mine and his family, live the life of a Middle Ground 18th c. farmer 24/7. He is an excellent shot, and has had good sucess using buckskin. I've never tried buckskin, but my favorite is heavy weight hemp canvas. It's tough as iron and it doesn't cut or even burn if properly lubed. I had a pair of breeches made from hemp, and after 2 years of trekking and tacticals, they showed no wear at all. It makes great patching.
paulvallandigham
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Swampman: I have read untilI am going blind your thoughts on simple loading. What I recommended to this shooter was a loading process that will work for him regardless of other characteristics of his particular gun. Some guns can be shot with just patch and ball. Others don't shoot that well. I am very happy to know that using a thick patch and undersized ball has worked for you. But, I am not going to recommend that to others, and I really don't need you jumping in to contradict my advice to these new shooters. Once they get the gun working, and learn to shoot as well as you do, then they are ready to learn the short cuts. They don't have your knowledge or equipment to measure bore and groove diameters, or even understand why that is important, much less be able to choose the right patch thickness for any given undersized ball! You are terrrific, in your own right, and I respect what you do and can do with a gun. But, that is not the best advice to give to new shooters.
