• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Loading issues

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I would stay away from Bore Butter in cold weather. I found out the hard way when I was living in Vermont and a break in the weather and temperature convinced me one January morning to go out to the local quarry to do some target shooting.

It was nice and sunny outside and the temperature had gone up to 11° Fahrenheit. After setting up my targets, I opened my tube of bore butter to lube my patch and nothing would come out. It was frozen solid. I ended up using spit patches to load with (had to be quick!) and used the tube of bore butter to hammer nails in my targets from that point on.

Personally, I use Stumpy's Moose Snot for patch lube and it works great. Plus, it doesn't freeze solid in cold weather. Do a search on the forum for "Stumpy's Moose Snot" and you'll find the recipe you can use to whip up a batch yourself.

Twisted_1in66 :thumbsup:
Dan
 
Generally not that cold in Va. I keep my pre-lubed patches in a little tin container. However, I am going to give your lube choice a try, as soon as I can get back to the range.

Looks like some colder weather coming later in the week. We have the rest of this week and next week, before our season ends. Chance of rain and 61 degrees tomorrow.
 
Danny Ross said:
I don't know if anyone else caught this, he is saying the first part of the barrel he has no problem getting the ball started, it is only through the middle of the barrel he has had an issue, once he gets through it it loosens up. Also he said the 50cal jag he had been using get hung up through the middle part of the barrel. Maybe try running some Scotch Brite pads through it. I wonder if the rifling maybe rough through that area causing the hang up. Just a thought. DANNY

This is the problem. If its TIGHT in a small area only in the middle I'd suspect a poorly drilled barrel from the factory. If its LOOSE then tight I'm thinking bulged barrel from firing a shot w/o ball seated on powder. In any case I would have the barrel rebored to .54 or replace the barrel. If its TIGHT in the middle then when its fouled its REALLY TIGHT and thus yer issue. :idunno: I'm no expert, though many belive so :rotf: but thats what I believe is the issue.
 
If you don't have one, buy a range rod, brass or steel, and use that at the range. The PRB should go smoothly to the powder once short started, and just seated firmly. Banging on the ball with the rod will deform the ball and change the compression on the powder.

fffg will burn more cleanly than ffg, and you'll be able to use a lighter charge.

I'm guessing that the BP shop you mentioned is Fort Chambers, but I don't recall if he stocks .475 or .480 balls. If not, you might want to try thinner patches and see if you can shoot them without cutting or burning. Mink oil will help there. Buy DRY patches or cut your own.
 
Yeah it is Fort Chambers. I am going to town this week so I will stop by and check on smaller balls. I will take the rifle with me and have them take a look at it also. He pretty good and finding issues. I am thinking that the barrel is not drilled properly. The barrel has no dirt, corrosion or anything in it. I also did some checks that makes me think that. I put white hockey tape on the jag. Little strips until it was just snug in the first inch or so of the barrel. As I ran the jag down the barrel about 5 in down it tightens up for about a foot then in goes back to the normal resistance. When I pulled the jag out there was no snags or anything on the tap so I'm pretty sure there isn't any burrs.
 
I will make up some of the moose snot. I seen the recipe on the forum. I have had some cold weather issue because of bore butter. One that cost me a shot a very nice buck. (When I first got my ML I was told to use bore butter for everything to include the lock it froze up and the hammer wouldn't move). I wasn't very old but I learned a few lessons that day. In response to your cleaning tips. My weapons are clean I just haven't used hot water in a long time. I have used a BP cleaning solution since then and have had good luck with it. I do all that work outside now since the bath tub incident. It's been 15 years now and my wife still thinks she sees a stain. Thanks for the tip on tearing down rifles with pins I don't have any but in the winter time I have a lot of people that have me fix or clean there rifles. I have only ever had to do a few ML and I have never done any with pins.
 
Tanker, FYI two of my friends and I all have Traditions Buckskinner's .50 cal flintlocks and we all have the same problem a tight spot about six inches down the barrel. Tried most everything with no luck except for those modern plastic bullets, called Traditions and they weren't much help. Good Luck, Steve
 
Tanker said:
I will make up some of the moose snot. I seen the recipe on the forum. I have had some cold weather issue because of bore butter. One that cost me a shot a very nice buck. (When I first got my ML I was told to use bore butter for everything to include the lock it froze up and the hammer wouldn't move).

Oops. Lightly oil the lock and pivot points. And you really don't need more lube than it takes to fill the weave of the Patch.
 
Tanker said:
I have had some cold weather issue because of bore butter. One that cost me a shot a very nice buck. (When I first got my ML I was told to use bore butter for everything to include the lock it froze up and the hammer wouldn't move).
Oil for moving parts...
 
I've been thinking some on this. As you have stated, the tight spot is in the same place. Once past the tight spot your patch feels similar to the smooth entry.

Where is the tight spot in relation to the underlugs that link the barrel to the stock? I am thinking that the installation of the underlug has distorted the barrel in that section. Since the bore is clean and no pitting or discoloration is evident in that area, I think that the problem is with the barrel. The correction is likely to involve either boring out the barrel or replacing the barrel. Both of these options will be expensive.

Try the smaller balls of 0.480" to see if you can get reasonable performance without going to extreme measures to use the gun. Use a smaller ball with a thicker patch and an oil lubricant. Wipe the bore with a damp patch between shots. Turn your jag down to get easier clearance at the tight spot. You may get acceptable performance without added expense.
 
I just checked and it starts about a half inch or so before the under lug and then continues for approx 3 inches. I have been busy with our flintlock season so I haven't had time to get to the local BP shop. I will buy a few different things to try out at the range. Planning on going to get the stuff friday to do some shooting Sunday. If I can't get the weapon to work well it isn't worth enough to spend the money to rebore. I would rather build or buy a new one for my son. I will report back my results from the range. Thanks for all the input.
 
An update on my muzzleloader issue. I went yesterday to my BP shop and the gun is structurally sound no rust pitting. Only found a little residual dirt towards the breach. Nothing major. The shop said they here this problem a lot with this brand and make. The only suggestion they could give me was to work the barrel with one of the following or all 3 if needed. Steel wool, Emery paper and scotch pads. I sat today and worked the barrel with steal wool. From start to finish I can tell a difference. The patches run smooth through the barrel and I can not feel any tight spots like I did before. I did find 2 spots that had what looked like burs on the riflings. It is gone now. The plan for tomorrow is to take the gun to the range and do some shooting. I have 3 different patches to try. I will also try 3f in the barrel. The BP shop didn't have any ball below .490. That I could use. There next size was .457. I will take the Emery paper and scotch bright pads with me tomorrow in case I need to adjust more. The only thing I couldn't find was beeswax so far to make moose snot. I will let everyone know how I make out.
 
Here's the results from a day a the range. The steel wool worked but not a lot. I tried the load that I fired when it got stuck first to compare. It still got stuck on the second shot but this time it was almost the whole way down the barrel and it was a lot easier to pull the ball. After I cleaned it good I started trying different things. I found that I could get a second shot if I used .10 patch 3f powder and spit as patch lube. Very tight though and it took more effort than it should. I tried a few different combinations of 3 different patch sizes, lube and powders. Something cool I found out is spit on a patch will clean the barrel enough to allow me to easily load a second and third shot. I did take steal wool and other stuff to the range but I didn't use them. Since I was able to get results that were acceptable to me. I didn't see any reason to do it. After I found what worked I bench shot in the gun at 40yds. Final 5 shots off the bench resulted in 50 cent size grouping. So at this point I think it is a rifle to use only if my TC fails right before hunting seasons. Originally this was to be my son's flintlock but I believe I will shop around for one for him that isn't so contemptible. A hard lesson I learned today is to pay attention while loading. My son and I were talking and I forgot to load the powder. As soon as I rammed it down I realized it. It was the first time I ever did that, luckly since working with this gun I got really good at pulling balls. Thanks for all the help.
 
At this point I think I'd go wit a slightly smaller ball but of coarse that's your call. Forget the powder? Pretty much everyone has done that at one time or another. Just work a little powder in the breech, it doesn't take much, then set her off. It's enough to fling the ball out. Glad things are working better for you.
 
Mooman76 said:
At this point I think I'd go wit a slightly smaller ball but of coarse that's your call. Forget the powder? Pretty much everyone has done that at one time or another. Just work a little powder in the breech, it doesn't take much, then set her off. It's enough to fling the ball out. Glad things are working better for you.

I went shooting once, couple years ago, and I didn't do it :idunno: :blah:
 
I was always more worried about double loading. I have all my rods marked as a witness mark. Never once though I would forget something like that. If there is a next time I will try shooting it out. I consider myself to have mastered ball pulling so I need to try something else. I will get some of the smaller balls and try them out. I will look around here a little more and if I can't get them I will order. A thought I had is if I can get it working similar to my TC I would restock the rifle for my son. It shoots great but I think it looks ugly.
 
Since you have a combination that woks well now, maybe shooting it more will help. Fifty cent piece size group I'd say it is a accurate rifle. DANNY
 
Back
Top