Loading press

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Yes I do, and it sucks. Just use the lever on your gun, or if that is not an option, spend the money to get a decent one. It will work for occasional shooting, but offers no advantage over the on gun rammer, which is well, on the gun, and much more convenient.
I've seen s couple of Walkers with bent loading rods that would have been better served by a cylinder loader.
 
I've seen s couple of Walkers with bent loading rods that would have been better served by a cylinder loader.
I just finished straightening mine, trying to seat the .457 balls with a cheater bar it did bend some. I have to make a ram that I can use with my geared arbor press.
I forged & fabricated all the parts for a loading press out of 4130 steel that I gifted to my old Lt. & gun trading partner, because he could break an anvil in a sand box, may he RIP.
 
I just finished straightening mine, trying to seat the .457 balls with a cheater bar it did bend some. I have to make a ram that I can use with my geared arbor press.
I forged & fabricated all the parts for a loading press out of 4130 steel that I gifted to my old Lt. & gun trading partner, because he could break an anvil in a sand box, may he RIP.
Actually if the loading rod on the Walkers were given a deeper case they wouldn't bend so easily. I may re-case mine one of these days.
 
You should be able to repair it. What is the date code and who is the manufacturer? How about a photo of the broken parts?
It’s a Gregorelli Uberti Navy Arms 6.5 barrel. Made in a1960. I’m working on a repair, but I can tell it won’t be strong enough.
 

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Using the right sized ball and pure lead should not bend the loading lever. Of course it could depend on the quality of the pistol in the first place. Never bent or came close to bending a loading lever on my Walkers.
 
I may re-case mine one of these days.
It would be a waste of time as even the deepest case hardening only hardens the surface to a depth of .001, not making the steel itself harder. If were really concerned about mine, I would forge a new lever from 5160 spring steel and then quench it and temper it back to a straw color.
 
It would be a waste of time as even the deepest case hardening only hardens the surface to a depth of .001, not making the steel itself harder. If were really concerned about mine, I would forge a new lever from 5160 spring steel and then quench it and temper it back to a straw color.
Actually case hardening depth is a matter of time and temperature and can be accomplished to .030 deep carbon migration. This will greatly stiffen a loading lever leaving the core quite malleable .
 
Actually case hardening depth is a matter of time and temperature and can be accomplished to .030 deep carbon migration. This will greatly stiffen a loading lever leaving the core quite malleable .
True, however it still will not make the base steel any harder, so in essence under a strain it will still bend. I have learned that in 40+ years in blacksmithing and knife making.
 
I bought the traditions loading press and added a larger base. Its chincy but cheap. It seems to work ok with my larger base but I will not be surprised when it breaks. It has however been working well for about a year of weekly use.
Nick , I have the same model. Have used it for around 2 1/2 years , so far no problems . My 58 remington seems to like the .451 ball the best and this is easier on the loading press. Using it the same way I bought it , no changes. Gunnyr
 


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