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yakimaman

40 Cal.
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Mar 4, 2011
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The musket I just got is the first of its kind I've owned and I'd like to try my hand at making (rolling) and shooting paper cartridges. Plenty of info out there on how to make them and there's probably a video somewhere on shooting them but the question I have is what end of the paper cartridge goes down the bore first? Tear it, pour the charge down the barrel the put the ball first or the long end of the paper tube or ???

Also, I have the trapezoid template to use but I saw a video of an Aussie guy who takes a piece of paper about 5" square and just rolls it around the dowel corner to corner, puts a drop of pste on the last corner to hold the tube together, then he twists one end, drops the ball in, dumps the powder on top the ball and then twists the other end. Seemed darned easy that way. But in all these paper cartridges, with no physical separation between ball and powder - after carrying them around a bit, don't you get powder creep, wouldn't the powder eventually end up on top the ball?
 
Good questions.

I have always inverted my cartridge to load it ball first after pouring, but for safety, as I want to be sure the ball is seated on the powder without any air gaps.

The name of the game historically was speed loading, and it would be faster to insert the open end of the cartridge completely into the muzzle, and it would pour while you drew the rammer, thus eliminating the time needed to invert the cartridge and insert it. Ramming should compress the ball onto the paper tube, forming a wad, but I prefer my way.

Now as for cartridge rolling, they didn't use glue so if you are interested in the historic way, then you'd use string. Cartridges were not nearly so uniform as modern ammunition, so I have seen a knot tied at the base of the tube, the ball inserted, then the wooden "form" replaced to support the tube while a second knot was tied between the ball and the form..., and the tube is then crimped a bit, and the string is tied off. This prevents the powder from mixing much with the ball for remember the powder was not granulated as ours is today. It was probably coarser and so less chance it would slip past the crimp in the tube.

Now if you are worried about modern powder slipping down, and you want consistency, I have seen target shooters construct double cartridges. They make the paper cartridge for the ball, and a second cartridge just a teeny bit smaller than the first cartridge. The smaller catrdige is inserted into the main cartridge, after the ball is placed within; thus it forms a seperate chamber for the powder, and no mixing or loss happens.

LD
 
As stated "double " paper cartidges were often used , especially after the introduction of the mini. The seperate paper for the powder kept the min's lube from fouling the powder. :hmm:
 
I make mine like the French cartridges, but I put some tissue paper between the ball and powder.

You will need to experiment with the amount of and thickness of paper for rolling the cartridge. Too much, and the ball will be too tight. Too little, and it may come apart.

I pour the powder down, and invert the rest and put the ball end down then.

If you prime from the cartridge; you may want to add 5 grains of powder to the load.
 
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I make mine as shown (I believe this is the hybrid "Amurcan" method or therebouts). Button thread but no glue. I tear the folded end & pour in the powder then flip the cartridge and set the waxed ball flush by thumb. I then tear the extra paper away and seat the ball onto the powder.

I make mine out of onionskin typing paper. When that is gone I'm not sure what I'll use. :hmm:
 
Awhile back I was at an auction and spied a junk box with about twelve pkgs. of Corrasable Bond 25% cotton typing paper,several different weights including onion skin.I use it very sparingly it isn't made anymore.I look in junk shops,the Goodwill,e-bay,everywhere for it.Not too bad for patching bullets either.
 
I haven't bought any yet because I still have several packages but I think this what you're referring to. You can still buy onion skin typing paper.

And yes, it's great for paper cartridges and paper airplanes!

Onion skin paper
 
The milatary also issued a cartridge box with a solid wood rack to hold the cartridges upright.Idont know if the guy on the street,or woods as it were used cartridges :hmm:
 
Waxed or greased for lubrication. Military used to use a very undersized ball but some modern shooters use a tighter combination. If I know I'm shooting soon I may put some lube on the ball section of my cartridge. Also I think the French may have used a type of glue.
 
Dipped in beeswax. Helps keep the fouling soft so I can load a tight fitting ball with a tapered wood rammer that's only about 5/16" at the narrow end for my 0.66" bore. Also keeps the threads in place on the cartridge. Stop just short of the wider thread and it won' migrate into the powder.
 
I used to use brown paper grocery sacks. I'd "work" the paper (crumple it up) to make it softer, but it was too hard to work with.

How about newsprint paper?
 
For years, I wondered which end of the cartridge, ball or paper tube, went into the muzzle first. Then when I worked at the Springfield Armory National Historic Site as a volunteer, I asked the NPS Historian. He said both the British and Continental Armies loaded the opened, paper end of the cartridge into the muzzle first, right after they poured the powder in.
 
I've used newsprint with my Bess. I got an end of a roll from the local paper to help packing the house up when we moved for $2.00.

We used it for packing dishes, glasses etc. I started using it after I ran outta tracing paper one day. It works just fine.
 
I like the precut old timey newsprint I get from smiling fox with my barrel and ball size it works great
 
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