GANGGREEN
45 Cal.
I've decided to go with just the rear bolt. There's probably room in the front for a screw, should I change my mind. I'll have to decide what to do about a sideplate or escutcheon for the single lock bolt though.
Lock geometry question....
- Thread starter GANGGREEN
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The lock looks like it belongs....nicely balanced. If a sideplate is used, a "fake" front lockbolt could be used. Just peen the shank from the backside of the sideplate. Nobody looks for a front lockbolt end behind the frizzen spring. Again...nice going....Fred
GANGGREEN
45 Cal.
flehto said:
Geez, I hadn't even considered a faux lockbolt head. Good thinking Fred, thanks again.
That's what I did on a boys rifle I built.
I wanted a typical flintlock side plate which I thought needed a front screw to look right but, between the barrel, the ramrod groove and the lock it just wouldn't work out.
I found a very short, large, sheet metal screw with a straight drive slot and a pan or fillister head that could be reshaped to look like a lock screw should.
The screw and sideplate look like they should and the one, rear lock screw is doing a fine job of holding the lock in place. :grin:
I wanted a typical flintlock side plate which I thought needed a front screw to look right but, between the barrel, the ramrod groove and the lock it just wouldn't work out.
I found a very short, large, sheet metal screw with a straight drive slot and a pan or fillister head that could be reshaped to look like a lock screw should.
The screw and sideplate look like they should and the one, rear lock screw is doing a fine job of holding the lock in place. :grin:
GANGGREEN
45 Cal.
Excellent. This is why I hang out on this board, there's just so much to learn and so much excellent information and ideas presented. Thanks much....
Another "take" on a fake front lockbolt, especially if the sideplate doesn't want to lie flat in its inlet.
Inlet a #6-32 nut below the surface of the lock nose inlet, run a #6-32 screw through the hole in the lockplate nose and screw it into the nut which has retaining side grooves to ensure it doesn't pull out. Wax the screw and bottom of lockplate and epoxy the nut. When the epoxy is set, remove the screw and measure its length so it falls short of the nut bottom......Fred
Inlet a #6-32 nut below the surface of the lock nose inlet, run a #6-32 screw through the hole in the lockplate nose and screw it into the nut which has retaining side grooves to ensure it doesn't pull out. Wax the screw and bottom of lockplate and epoxy the nut. When the epoxy is set, remove the screw and measure its length so it falls short of the nut bottom......Fred
GANGGREEN
45 Cal.
flehto said:
I've been thinking about that as well and didn't know if the single bolt would draw the sideplate tight without a gap. Thanks again.
