Lock quality on a InvestArm Hawken?

[sussexmuzllodr]

I have two investarms flint locks. One was used from a Cabelas stock that I got the other was brand new in 2019.
Both taken apart and polished and both function great as long as I have a sharp flint.

 

[bajabuc]

Want sparks? radioactive soleplate on the flint frizzen...does it even with a wet rock from the creek.

 

[sturmkatze]

Get the Gemmer or the Pedersoli...no brass and two wedges.

Flintlock worked for centuries.

Get what makes your heart go a flutter. Off you like brass, get brass. You ain’t hiding’ from injuns.

 

[RocketMan58]

Get what makes your heart go a flutter. Off you like brass, get brass. You ain’t hiding’ from injuns.

Thanks, this IS after all about wants and itch scratching vs "need". That said, I actually prefer steel furniture to brass but kits are what they are. I liked the Santa Fe kit due to its light weight and smaller caliber but a 50 cal Gemmer isn't off the table completely. ( I've got a bad shoulder and am a little recoil sensitive.) If I do a brass kit, I'll darken it up vs polish it anyway. No rush I guess, I'll be working on my SMR for some time to come. The metal work is a slow process.

 

[AlexB]

Thanks, this IS after all about wants and itch scratching vs "need". That said, I actually prefer steel furniture to brass but kits are what they are. I liked the Santa Fe kit due to its light weight and smaller caliber but a 50 cal Gemmer isn't off the table completely. ( I've got a bad shoulder and am a little recoil sensitive.) If I do a brass kit, I'll darken it up vs polish it anyway. No rush I guess, I'll be working on my SMR for some time to come. The metal work is a slow process.

May wanna rethink the Santa Fe if weights a issue my production model weighs 9.7 pounds.

 

[RocketMan58]

May wanna rethink the Santa Fe if weights a issue my production model weighs 9.7 pounds.

Thanks, I'm already rethinking it. The near complete lack of owner info on these rifles scares me. Their website is as useless ass teats on a bull as well. The muzzleloaders.com site says the rifle weighs in a 7.6# but reports here are touting 9#. Given the barrels are listed the same 15/16 diameter as the 9.1# 50 cal gemmer, I have no doubt your right on with that figure. I think I'll wait to see what Kibler puts out later this year. At least there, I know I'm going to get exactly what I expect.
As an aside, It really urks me that a company the size of Investarms (or Mussleloaders-com for that matter) can't put useful and accurate info on their websites. It indicates a lack of commitment to customer service IMHO.

 

[AlexB]

Thanks, I'm already rethinking it. The near complete lack of owner info on these rifles scares me. Their website is as useless ass teats on a bull as well. The muzzleloaders.com site says the rifle weighs in a 7.6# but reports here are touting 9#. Given the barrels are listed the same 15/16 diameter as the 9.1# 50 cal gemmer, I have no doubt your right on with that figure. I think I'll wait to see what Kibler puts out later this year. At least there, I know I'm going to get exactly what I expect.
As an aside, It really urks me that a company the size of Investarms (or Mussleloaders-com for that matter) can't put useful and accurate info on their websites. It indicates a lack of commitment to customer service IMHO.

Yeah I was kind of surprised but talk about no recoil.

 

[ChuckJonesWagon]

For a quality rifle the Kibler would be worth the price and the wait.

 

[ChuckJonesWagon]

Locks....Coil spring or Leaf spring? I have my old T\C Hawken that was acquired in the late '70s and it still has the factory coil spring lock. It goes bang almost every time I pull the trigger. If it doesn't usually it's something I wasn't paying attention to.

I also have 4 other''s with leaf spring locks. IMHO, as amateur as that is, I prefer the leaf springs much more.

A properly tuned leaf spring lock has most of the "pull poundage" from "rest to half-cock". The pull poundage from half-cock to full-cock should actually be much less than the initial pull. Where a coil spring lock will have a constant increasing pull poundage as it's pulled back.

For the most part, a hunting rifle matters not much as long as it goes bang when you pull the trigger. But for ease of use a properly tuned leaf spring lock is my preference.

 

[JDBraddy]

Locks....Coil spring or Leaf spring? I have my old T\C Hawken that was acquired in the late '70s and it still has the factory coil spring lock. It goes bang almost every time I pull the trigger. If it doesn't usually it's something I wasn't paying attention to.

I also have 4 other''s with leaf spring locks. IMHO, as amateur as that is, I prefer the leaf springs much more.

A properly tuned leaf spring lock has most of the "pull poundage" from "rest to half-cock". The pull poundage from half-cock to full-cock should actually be much less than the initial pull. Where a coil spring lock will have a constant increasing pull poundage as it's pulled back.

For the most part, a hunting rifle matters not much as long as it goes bang when you pull the trigger. But for ease of use a properly tuned leaf spring lock is my preference.

I have two T/C Hawken flintlocks, which are very similar to Investarms, they're serviceable, and usually reliable, the only issues have been the tiny fly tends to work itself loose during long shooting sessions, and fall out causing the hammer to fall to half-cock when the set trigger is used. This was a frustrating until I figured out what was happening, now I recognize what's happening and know what to do. Also, I think the spring is a bit stronger than it needs to be, which is hard on both flints and the Frizzen. Am sure a skilled and experienced gunsmith could probably tune the lock to correct these issues. I have debated whether to have it tuned, replace it with an L&R or other lock, or just enjoy it as is, until I can eventually get a Kibler kit or custom gun.

 

[ChuckJonesWagon]

I have two T/C Hawken flintlocks, which are very similar to Investarms, they're serviceable, and usually reliable, the only issues have been the tiny fly tends to work itself loose during long shooting sessions, and fall out causing the hammer to fall to half-cock when the set trigger is used. This was a frustrating until I figured out what was happening, now I recognize what's happening and know what to do. Also, I think the spring is a bit stronger than it needs to be, which is hard on both flints and the Frizzen. Am sure a skilled and experienced gunsmith could probably tune the lock to correct these issues. I have debated whether to have it tuned, replace it with an L&R or other lock, or just enjoy it as is, until I can eventually get a Kibler kit or custom gun.
View attachment 373779

If that's a pic of your rifle, then you have the "old style" T\C Hammer. Look at that pic in post #2 on this thread: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/flintlock-t-c-renegade-54-questions.131361/ and you can see the difference in old vs new hammers.

The new hammer gives a slight change to the lock geometry of the lock, and is easier on flints than the model you have. I have the "new model" hammer. I can't recall if I swapped that out or if it's the original one that came with my kit rifle.