Lock question

[Wolfpaak]

When I prime my pan, the powder "leaks" out, even while sitting on stand. Should the frizzen close tightly on the pan, and if so how would I make that happen?
Thanks in advance.
Kenny

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Your powder should not leak out. Photos will help with arrows showing where leaks are occuring. Sorry, but explain sitting on stand.
Larry

 

[Rifleman1776]

Is this a pistol? Either way the powder should not leak. What kind of lock do you have? A real El-Cheapo will probably leak but can be tuned to be better. We need pics.

 

[excess650]

It sounds like a poor frizzen to pan fit. Side view pictures of the lock would be helpful.

Sight unseen options would be:

(1) welding and redrilling the frizzen pivot screw location for a tight fit
(2) laying a bead of TIG weld around the pan and filing for a perfect fit
(3) using JB Weld to build up the periphery of the pan and filing to fit

JB Weld will work, but will enentually erode.

 

[Artificer]

When I prime my pan, the powder "leaks" out, even while sitting on stand. Should the frizzen close tightly on the pan, and if so how would I make that happen?
Thanks in advance.
Kenny

There can be two types of powder leaking from pan.

1. Powder leaks out between the top of the pan and bottom of the frizzen.
2. Powder leaks out between the barrel and lock.

Which is going on with your rifle OR is it both?

Gus

 

[Phil Coffins]

I believe he has a Kentucky with two piece stock.

 

[Wolfpaak]

 

[Wolfpaak]

Sorry for doubling up on the photos!
I don't know which model the rifle is or the lock manufacturer. It does look like its tight all around except In the rear towards the lock,1st picture, and along the barrel at the flash hole. I've only used 3f in the pan, should I be using courser powder?
As for sitting on stand, here in Minnesota we use elevated and enclosed stands for deer hunting. where you are sitting and not moving around much. I have tried priming the pan at the house and walking to the stand and waiting till i get to it to prime bot times the powder is gone after a while. Glad no trophy bucks have walked into range yet.

 

[54ball]

Remove the lock to make sure there is no powder behind the lock plate. It’s either going there or falling out.
Too much powder behind the lock plate could blow the lock off on firing.
It is safety concern, check that please.

 

[Squarebore]

Just a thought, but is the leading edge of your flint touching the frizzen and holding it open a fraction?

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

View attachment 98962

From what I can see via photos two suggestions: 1.Get another frizzen. 2. Grind the barrel side of the frizzen so it is parallel to the barrel as that where the gap seems to be. The frizzen snail/pivot area will also have to be ground down to move the fizzen over closer to the barrel. Take the slop out with a washer. You may have to make that washer to get the correct fit. As said by 54ball, make sure the powder is not going (ever) behind the lock. Big safety problem there!
Good luck!
Larry

 

[Wolfpaak]

54ball, I just had the lock out of it, to replace the touch hole liner, and there was nothing in there.
I took the lock out and put a light behind it and i can see light between the frizzen and the pan. First picture is the slight gap between them second is the backside of the lock.
I should add that my FIL put this lock into a percussion cap rifle. so it's not "original".
Thanks for all of the help!
Kenny

 

[SDSmlf]

It may just be shadows and the angle you took the photograph from, but agree with others that photographs show a poor fit between the frizzen and the barrel. The photograph below seems to show the lockplate against the barrel with a gap between the frizzen and barrel.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

54ball, I just had the lock out of it, to replace the touch hole liner, and there was nothing in there.
I took the lock out and put a light behind it and i can see light between the frizzen and the pan. First picture is the slight gap between them second is the backside of the lock.
I should add that my FIL put this lock into a percussion cap rifle. so it's not "original".
Thanks for all of the help!
Kenny

After seeing the photos on this reply, my reply #11 is not going to correct the issues unless you get another frizzen. You need way more than I previously suggested. Good luck!
Larry

 

[Flintlock Whiskey]

Sorry for doubling up on the photos!
I don't know which model the rifle is or the lock manufacturer. It does look like its tight all around except In the rear towards the lock,1st picture, and along the barrel at the flash hole.

I am 95+% sure what you have there is a Connecticut Valley Arms (CVA) rifle. Like my first "flinter" it tended to not be a very reliable weapon as the fit and finish on them can be iffy and the heat treat on the frizzen less than ideal. With a gun such as a flintlock it can make all the difference. My first flinter was a "less expensive" one and it was more than frustrating at times with it's quirks. I will be bombarded by comments stating how wrong I am, but it is true. They can be "tuned" to a point but you may end up wishing it were a caplock instead. I don't know if it is an option for you, but I suggest saving up and getting a higher quality flintlock gun. I saved for a while and got a higher quality Kentucky rifle and am so much happier now. It will take time to save up that kind f money but it is well worth it.

 

[Phil Coffins]

<inexpensive …………………………expensive >
frustrating …………………………. enjoyable
Pick where you prefer to spend you time and money. You don’t have to be at the extremes but the graph holds true for most things.

 

[Flintlock Whiskey]

<inexpensive …………………………expensive >
frustrating …………………………. enjoyable
Pick where you prefer to spend you time and money. You don’t have to be at the extremes but the graph holds true for most things.

As Chief Ten Bears would have said: "There is much iron in these words for all to see".

 

[Wolfpaak]

There is sentimental value to this gun, so i would like to make it work right. Would it be possible to put a different lock into it?

 

[Daryl Crawford]

Yes. You could fit a better lock. That way the gun that matters to you could be made more functional. I'll leave it to smarter folks here to suggest a lock other than to say you could look at L&R locks.

 

[54ball]

There is sentimental value to this gun, so i would like to make it work right. Would it be possible to put a different lock into it?

Is losing the prime the only issue?
Will it shoot reliably when it has prime?
If so I have 2 suggestions.
1. The easiest to say but maybe the hardest in practice....
Handling Discipline - Always be aware of how the rifle is held and the position. Always try to carry the rifle level and not tilted. Un-prime the rifle when climbing in and out of the stand. Re-Prime the rifle on the stand. Hold the rifle level in the stand if it means sticking the muzzle out the window. Always check the prime from time to time.
^^^^Of course do not let any of this prevent safe muzzle control. You can always re-prime the rifle.
2. Sealing the pan with wax....
I would do this on rainy days with the Trade Gun. Now the Trade Gun has a much bigger lock....
Anyway take some thick waxy lube, with your finger and the frizzen closed; after the rifle is primed, rub a little bit of this heavy lube around the edge, sealing the pan and frizzen. Do not lube the frizzen face and do not use so much you contaminate the prime.
3. When hunting I tend to really a prime a flint lock. I want that joker to go boom.

A Teddy Bear can be a sentimental object. It can be treasured and displayed but it’s not a hunting tool.
A hunting rifle is called to do a job. That job is killing a thinking, feeling and emotional creature. The hunter and the rifle have to function as a team to get this job done. If the tool is not suitable to the task, no amount of sentimentality will make it suitable.

As far as an L & R lock... The truth is you can find 3-4 rifles like yours at the flea market for the cost of 1 new lock.