Lock "tuning"

[longrifle89]

I've read a few articles and heard on a bunch of youtube videos that most factory locks need to be "tuned" to give optimal performance.

What exactly does this entail? Do any of you have a standard procedure you do to your new locks? I can't imagine being able to do anything to it besides re-hardening the frizzen, or maybe replacing the mainspring...

 

[Rusty_Nail]

There has been posts before on this. Check the following. I goooooogled and picked the first link to this forum.

http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/264159/all/1/

 

[Rifleman1776]

Depending on the lock and it's needs (faults) there are several things that can be done to improve performance. However, note, some import locks are hopeless and can only be improved with replacement.
However, I used to routinely dissassemble and would smooth with a stone all flat edges and holes. Sometimes, this alone, would give an amazing improvement in smoothness and speed. Check to see if there is any rubbing of parts against each other. e.g. tumbler/plate or mainspring/wood Carefully using stones or chisles, clean up those spots to eliminate rubbing. That is all basic.
Sometimes the frizzen on flinters needs hardening or the spring might need proper tempering. (better to replace) Others will chime in here, I'm sure.

 

[Vaino]

Now only use flintlocks purchased directly from Chambers and outside of one lock that was sent back and promptly corrected, all the others have req'd only minimal work.... just breaking some sharp corners and smoothing some surfaces w/ a stone.Nothing major as w/ some brands which I no longer use.

Just ordered a Chambers' gunsmith lock {lockplate is a rectangular piece of steel} for the present Bucks County because of certain stylistic lockplate features which no flintlock on the market has....luckily this lock w/ the excellent Chambers' quality will do nicely.....Fred

 

[nchawkeye]

What lock do you have??? What are the issues with it now???

 

[Dphar]

I've read a few articles and heard on a bunch of youtube videos that most factory locks need to be "tuned" to give optimal performance.

What exactly does this entail? Do any of you have a standard procedure you do to your new locks? I can't imagine being able to do anything to it besides re-hardening the frizzen, or maybe replacing the mainspring...

It entails everything from doing nothing other than polish the external surfaces to welding up faulty parts or even making new ones. Its done on a case by case basis and takes experience to know what does and does not need to be done on a given lock.
Most locks will benefit from having the cock and lock plate properly casehardened.

Dan

 

[Col. Batguano]

Most locks will benefit from having the cock and lock plate properly casehardened.

Dan

AFTER the engraving, not before!

 

[longrifle89]

I have an L&R Queen Anne. No issues, but like I said, I've heard that locks need tuning for optimal performance. It won't fire upside down.

 

[Spikebuck]

I have an L&R Queen Anne. No issues, but like I said, I've heard that locks need tuning for optimal performance. It won't fire upside down.

I purchased a smoothrifle in December with the L&R Queen Anne lock. While it sparked, it was inconsistent and touchy and nothing like other locks I have. Sent it off to Brad Emig at Cabin Creek Muzzleloading where the internals where worked (polishing, etc), the frizzen was carburized (twice as apparently the steel L&R uses sometimes doesn't like to harden properly), and the cock was reworked to better the angle so when done with the stroke the flint actually points into the pan instead of in front of it. The lock I got back was like something completely different!!! An amazing transformation from a near piece of junk to a pretty good lock...certainly "passable" now.

 

[M. De Land]

I'm curious about the flint pointing at the pan thing and wonder why that has anything to do with anything. The cock breaks flint and shears metal driving sparks ahead but I would think the shape and lifting action of the frizzen would be the steering mechanism having more to do with directing the spark blossom into the pan than would the position the flint ends up.
What ever directs the sparks into the pan is what is needed but just not sure final flint position is the indication of what causes that to happen.Mike D.

 

[rich pierce]

At first it seems that the cock pointing into the pan would not accomplish anything. But it can be an indicator of the angle of the jaws, and therefore the flint, to the frizzen. a more scraping than head-butting action.

 

[Dphar]

I'm curious about the flint pointing at the pan thing and wonder why that has anything to do with anything. The cock breaks flint and shears metal driving sparks ahead but I would think the shape and lifting action of the frizzen would be the steering mechanism having more to do with directing the spark blossom into the pan than would the position the flint ends up.
What ever directs the sparks into the pan is what is needed but just not sure final flint position is the indication of what causes that to happen.Mike D.

If the cock does not hold the flint at the right angle and if the sparks do not get thrown into the pan efficiency suffers. Ignition will be slower, for example, if most sparks are thrown in front of the pan rather than in it.
This lock is fast and reliable its a "Dale Johnson" by Chambers. The flint does not point at the pan.

If I bend the cock to point the flint down more speed and reliability will suffer.

Pointing at the pan is a rule of thumb. Actually the lower JAW of the cock is the guide, since flint thickness can effect where it points.
Note the lower jaw angle on this copy of a Manton lock.

Some locks may show a marked improvement by reworking the cock when they appear as the Chambers does. Others do not.
The frizzen shape is also involved with this as well and the point at which is breaks over and is snapped forward by its spring.
So there is more to it than "the flint has to point at the pan".
Also a hand held lock will not always perform exactly as it does mounted rigidly in the completed gun.

Dan

 

[Rifleman1776]

Good info guys. Even this old timer learned something. That means I now know it all. :wink: :rotf:

 

[nchawkeye]

Good info guys. Even this old timer learned something. That means I now know it all. :wink: :rotf:

Then you and my wife have something in common!!! :blah:

 

[bpd303]

I do know it all, problem is sometimes, I can't remember it when needed. :grin:

 

[David W.]

I tuned mine to the key of G. Just kidding! I don't really need to add much over what has already been said except it seems none of my L&R locks sparked good until I gave them a Kasenit treatment.

 

[M. De Land]

Also flipping the flint over and reversing the bevel would entirely change it's spark directing influence along with the flint length ever changing as it wears down.
Being new to all things flint lock and learning about how to work them over I find this discussion very interesting and appreciate the exchange of thinking and ideas.
Would this then mean that the lower down on the frizzen face that spark generation occurs and the delayed frizzen lift, the better focused the spark blossom would tend to have in targeting the pan? On the other hand the higher up it starts the more sparks would be generated and probably cover a larger area. Mike D.

 

[Dphar]

Also flipping the flint over and reversing the bevel would entirely change it's spark directing influence along with the flint length ever changing as it wears down.
Being new to all things flint lock and learning about how to work them over I find this discussion very interesting and appreciate the exchange of thinking and ideas.
Would this then mean that the lower down on the frizzen face that spark generation occurs and the delayed frizzen lift, the better focused the spark blossom would tend to have in targeting the pan? On the other hand the higher up it starts the more sparks would be generated and probably cover a larger area. Mike D.

All the descriptions of the flintlock era say the flint bevel should be down. As a result if I had a lock that would not spark properly with the flint bevel down (right side up) I would fix it.
Until I started looking at ML sites on the WWW I never heard of putting the flint in upside down and I started shooting FLs in the late 1960s.

Dan

 

[Spikebuck]

So there is more to it than "the flint has to point at the pan".
Dan

Agree. In the case of the mentioned L&R, no matter what I did with Flint position or up and down, it was striking the frizzen too straight-on. Also, I watched in the dark and the sparks went almost everywhere except into the pan. After the cock was bent to point the flint down more, if now strikes the frizzen at a great angle and in the dark I clearly see a lot of sparks going into the pan.

On the other hand, I have a Davis that points more to the front of the pan when down, but the strike to the frizzen is a good angle and a shower of sparks go right into the pan, so I would not want to have the angle of that one changed.

 

[Wes/Tex]

I do know it all, problem is sometimes, I can't remember it when needed. :grin:

...or at all!

As for the original question, what's above is all valid. Some or many need polishing, some need much work and some should be used as fishing weights. The flint to frizzen angle has been debated for years and while some locks respond to this theory, you can see from some of the photos that it's not a cure-all for every style. If the flint face strikes evenly across the frizzen face with a downward thrust, you will probably get some amount of spark. Adjusting the flint slightly may improve the amount. Good luck.