Longest lasting flint?

[Dithsoer]

What is the longest-lasting "flint" commercially available? I say flint even though there are a variety of strikers available, some that are true flints while others are not. I realize that every lock is different and what works for one may not work for another but there are some designs that last longer than others. What design usually last the longest, i.e. giving the longest usable sparking life?

 

[paulvallandigham]

The flint's working life is more dependent on whether the lock is tuned, than what material or who makes the flint. Tom Fuller flints from England have been the standard for many years. But Rich Pierce, a member here from Missouri also knapps flints and members are speaking highly of the quality and price. There are other " rocks" that can make sparks, and, of course, everyone tries to come out with a synthetic stone to do the same. Real flint represents a balance between a stone strong enough to hold an edge, and hard enough to scrape off steel bits, without gouging the face of the frizzen.

A well- tuned lock should give you 80-100+ strikes on any given flint. Some deliver more than 120 strikes. There is an article under Member Resources, at the top of the Index page to this column on Shooting and Tuning Flintlocks, that I wrote back in 2004. I have learned several ways to tune locks since then that do not appear in the article. I have also helped members here learn to tune their own locks. If you are interested, after reading the article, contact me with a PM.

 

[roundball]

Speaking only for my experience with several of T/C's medium size, new style locks...Tom Fuller 3/4" black english flints are far and away the best over all others that I've tried like agate, missouri, and french amber...the rest have not even been close.

 

[robinghewitt]

Are those dura flints still made?

May be hype and BS but they were supposed to be quite incredible. I've tried agate and ceramic without being hugely impressed. They last a long time, especially if you sharpen regularly with a diamond hone, but eventually they chip and wind up in the bin. Something has to be best but what is it? :thumbsup:

 

[roundball]

Are those dura flints still made?

May be hype and BS but they were supposed to be quite incredible. I've tried agate and ceramic without being hugely impressed. They last a long time, especially if you sharpen regularly with a diamond hone, but eventually they chip and wind up in the bin. Something has to be best but what is it? :thumbsup:

You live where the best flints come from !
:grin:

 

[ohio ramrod]

I had a friend who was having trouble with a flinter and we tried the dura flints in it and they were no better than the regular flints. But I have never tried them in a properly working gun.

 

[Zonie]

Dithsoer
When you ask about the longest lasting flint, that can be difficult to say.

Some of the modern flint substitutes can hold their edge longer than true flint can but many of them take a great deal of effort (and things like diamond laps etc.) to resharpen.

A good piece of true flint on the other hand may get small chips in its edge and dull after a number of shots but the edge is easily resharpened (or re-knapped) in less than a minute while the flint is still in the cock.
A good flint can be re-knapped many times before it becomes too thick to get an edge on it.

Either one of thems life is really determined more by the lock than by what their made of.
A good lock will spark well and not dull the edge of the flint for 30 shots or more.
A poor lock can damage its flint or flint substitute in a matter of a few shots.

 

[redwing]

The life of any flint can be greatly increased by using a diamond file to edge the flint. The flint edge can be cut even and sharp. This saves the length of flint and it does not have to be moved forward as often.
No D. Boone didn't have a diamond file. He also didn't have coil spring locks. carbon steel barrels
and frizzen. :hmm:

 

[RADeO]

I had a friend who was having trouble with a flinter and we tried the dura flints in it and they were no better than the regular flints.

Where did you find the Dura Flints? I would like to give one of them a try.

 

[renovato]

Being relatively new to flinters, I've only tried Tom Fuller flints. The very first one I used went over 100 rounds and since then, they average about 70-75 shots per flint. I don't know if there are better flints out there, but you might give these a try. I bought them from Track of the Wolf.

 

[robinghewitt]

Where did you find the Dura Flints? I would like to give one of them a try.

I'd like to give two of them a try. I have a very flint fussy double gun that likes them slim. Any kind of a bevel and the lock geometry goes all to cack. Buy a bag of 50 maybe get 5 or 6 that will work in it. Someone tell me what dura flints are made from and I'll buy a saw :thumbsup:

 

[robinghewitt]

Just had a quick google and I'm guessing an yttria stabilized zirconia ceramic, the stuff they make those fancy knife blades out of.

It seems odinary zirconia is a bit brittle without the yttrium oxide additive, but with it the ceramic can even be used for ballistic armour :hmm:

 

[DENNIS B]

I wasted my money on dura flints and my advice is they are just a lot BS ,I haven't found any thing better than english flints..And I wouldn't use dura flints again even if I got them for nothing..Dennis B

 

[roundball]

I wouldn't use dura flints again even if I got them for nothing.

Agree...when switching from caplocks to Flintlocks the only difference is the ignition and that is the whole challenge of it to me...to learn how Flintlocks worked and how to keep them running well.

So for me personally, to then consider using a man made synthetic flint substitute defeats the whole purpose...I might just as well stay with caplocks if I was going to eliminate real flint from the equation...that's just me

 

[robinghewitt]

to learn how Flintlocks worked and how to keep them running well.

Learning is the problem. This is the lock in question and it's certainly trying to educate me :rotf:

If the flint were any thicker it would hit the top of the steel.

Set a thick flint further back so it misses the top and hits lower down? That only makes the top jaw hits the steel.

Put the flint in bevel up if you want both top jaw and screw to hit the steel :shocked2:

The lock geometry demands the correct flint.

If you look at the shelf supporting the back of the top jaw, this is where it wants to be.

If you look at guns in cases from this period with spare flints in, they are thin and perfectly formed :hatsoff:

Put the right flint in this gun, fill the pan so the V edge under the steel can shape the prime, ignition will be caplock speed.

I'm shooting our annual 30 clay competition with it tomorrow and I need all the edge I can get. Hope to come second if it doesn't rain.

Ordinary knapped flints don't work unless I'm ultra-picky. If dura flints are naff, I think I want sawn agate for next year :thumbsup:

 

[bingo1952]

Is that one of the self-priming Mantons? A pic of the entire gun would be appreciated. Beautiful by the way, at least what I can see of it.

 

[roundball]

I want to be sure you know I was simply voicing my personal view about real flints vs. manmade synthetics...what or why anybody else does or uses what they do is their decision, not mine.
(and PS: I thought the little private business that made 'duraflints' went out of business a few years ago)

At any rate, it seems an interesting challenge you have there with those locks...are agates commonly used on your side of the pond?

If not, and you decide to go the agate route, T/C (Thompson Center Arms, NH, USA) allegedly uses a premium version of a sawed flint material so that might also be something you could check into.

But, with Tom Fuller's operation right there, seems you could get 100 or so hand picked, thin, flat top BEFs and you'd be all set.

 

[robinghewitt]

...are agates commonly used on your side of the pond?

Sawn agate is popular with the shooters of competitions. I'm not going to my clay competition today because it's pouring raining which doesn't exactly improve ignition and it's gusting 30 mph which makes them jink :shake:

The gun is a curious mixture of two guns by John Manton. The stock was made for a smaller set of tubes and someone has made a very fancy breeching to cobble them together. The locks say "John Manton & Son PATENT" on the outside, but don't have Manton's patent on the inside, no vertical sears. I paid much to much for it, I would complain if it did't work so amazingly well :thumbsup:

I still have hopes for the competition. You get two goes at it, once with flint once with percussion. I did the percussion last month in fine weather and was beaten only by Rick who was shooting flint. He's got to improve on my percussion score today, in driving rain :rotf:

 

[robinghewitt]

Is that one of the self-priming Mantons? A pic of the entire gun would be appreciated. Beautiful by the way, at least what I can see of it.

Here's a picture of the breeching that puts the two halves together. Allows the locks to snuggle in behind the bores. Does make it very slim, but odd. It has little fillets of iron to fill in the flat spots on the damascene where the locks used to sit :hmm:

Who would do such a thing? Who would have two defunct Manton's, the time, skill and inclination to put this thing together? :hmm:

Best guess has to be a 20th century gunsmith's apprentice with one of the big name makers :thumbsup:

best regards

Squire Robin

 

[roundball]

I have to say I like the looks of that flint double with the locks not sticking out so far on both sides