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Looking for a custom builder to make me a full stock Hawken

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Just various correct parts. Had an unused 1"x 36" .58 Green River Barrel, to which I fitted a flint plug (not a patent breech) and then a Chambers White Lightning liner. The stock was some generic shaped blank with only the barrel channel and ramrod groove inletted and drilled, that I maybe got at a yard sale. It was so huge and ugly that I sold it to a friend, who traded it back to me along with that .58 GRRW barrel and parts plus parts for a .54 Bridger Hawken (including a .54 GRRW barrel) and a .54 English sporting rifle parts, and a hard maple fullstock blank. This for a .40 Issac Haines flintlock I built that Bill wanted. Neill Fields coached me on the fine points of a fullstock Hawken, and I had one that he built for comparison. This was my 33rd rifle and maybe my 5th or 6th Hawken, I kind of lose track. I learned how to build a Hawken fullstock and would like to do another, either flint or cap.
 
:thumbsup: Nice looking rifle. I really like those full stock Hawkens. May have to chase down someone to build me one :grin:

Dan
 
Herb said:
. I learned how to build a Hawken fullstock and would like to do another, either flint or cap.
Then maybe we can work out a deal,are you a guitar player????? I have tons of really nice gear maybe we can do a trade???If not we can always use the always acceptable "Dead Presidents Pelts" as an exchange :grin:. I want a builder that will build it as if it was for himself. The MOST important factor for me is accuracy/build quality,then historical accuracy and beauty. I have several guns in my collection that just warm my heart everytime I shoot them,as much as I like my BP rifles I dont love them as I would a homebuild custom.I want a one-of-a-kind thumper I can pass on when I go................John

P.S. I also want to finish the stock/Barrel myself,that part I can "make" time for and will enjoy contributing something of mine to the build.......... :applause:
 
To addddd another "talk to Cooner" you know he grows the tree he makes the stock from right? :rotf: (bet you think I'm kidding) till I eeended up in ICU for 5 weeks or so and some test that said waiting on a fullstock Hawken late mod flintlock wasn't in my plans anymore I had no problem with his price and he may of got a start on it. Not many know the the small little things that people like me and 99.9% of Hawken lovers would miss that are burnned into that mans head, NO :bull: Fred :hatsoff: ( thats if you can't talk Don Stith into it, you wont.)
 
HERB cking your fullstock and trip 7 how did you load it? Straight 7 or a kicker to start it off? I've been playing with 1 bottle I was given a few years ago, ike the way it loads and cleans, and as your targets show it will get that PRB on target. Really nice Hawk from what I can tell. :thumbsup: Fred :hatsoff:
 
Full stock Hawkens are nice. I built a full stock Hawken flinter a couple of years back and really enjoy it. Whether you plan to do it yourself or have someone else do it I would get the parts from Don Stith. His kits use castings from original rifles and he is a stickler for authenticity.

As for builders who will put the parts together for you in a competent manner there are quite a few. A bunch have been mentioned here. The only problem is that many of them have quite a bit of backlog and you may end up waiting a year or so until your rifle ends up at the front of the line.
 
John- I build all my rifles exactly as you say. The best of workmanship I can do, of the best parts, and they are all tested for accuracy and velocity in sighting in. I have copied original rifles I like, as exactly as I can from photos. Have not had many to handle so to copy them. If I make an original, and I have done maybe a dozen or so, they are correct within the school they are based on. Many photos of my rifles are in the archives, if you do a search on "Hawkens", Green River Rifle Works, etc., name of Herb, any date, you will find photos.

I am a guitar player. Play any written music I like, in any key, can sight transpose to any of 15 keys in six chord shapes with capo for ease of playing and singing. Play for assisted living centers weekly, plus have 7 guitar students (only one of whom I charge). Mostly play for myself, any kind of music but modern stuff. Even have to learn some rock 'n roll for two kids who want to learn.

There are other guitar players here who are interested, so my guitars are a 1953 D-18 Martin I bought new in Dubuque, Iowa just before I went into the army, a Washburn D-29S, a Sheraton VSB Epiphone by Gibson semi acoustic electric, a 1962 Gretsch Electromatic 6182, a Jasmine Takamine ES91C to give to a granddaughter, and four Morris: an MD-515, a 1974 W-40, a 1974 609T and a W-610. Gave my grandson a Fender Stratocaster and amp, I don't play electrics. In a blindfold test at Thanksgiving, he rated my Martin at the bottom for quality of sound. Called it "tinny". I had him do the test to confirm my opinion- those Morris guitars are really good. In fact, the builder copied Martin bracing at first until they sued him to stop. I don't really NEED more guitars (have given away maybe a dozen), but who needs another rifle? My interest is high quality acoustics, and Morris are a lot cheaper than Martin, Gibson or Washburn.

fw- thanks for the comment. I shoot only black powder in my rifles, except to test other powders that most everyone says won't work. How I load Triple 7 is to pour the measure full, say 100 grains, then tap the side to settle it five grains (line scored inside barrel of measure). Fill to the top with Goex 2F and dump it down the bore. This is easier than the five grains of 4F that Hodgdon says to use for a booster charge. Then I can prime the pan with the same 2F powder. This is no more trouble than a powder horn and a small priming horn. Triple 7 burns hotter, so I used an overpowder wad. Otherwise the patches can hole or burn. I think in this test I used 5/8" leather scraps, cut with a punch, and soaked with Murphy Oil Soap-91% alcohol, 2 parts to 1, my lube. I'd coned the muzzle, so center the OPW and start it down about 3/4" with short starter, then put the patched (heavy pillow ticking) ball in the cone and seat together with a range rod. Leather OPWs are bad news, hit the shades of my Oehler 35P chronograph. Have also used heavy wool, but heavy felt would be good, too. I had no hangfires or trouble in this test due to the Triple 7. Did have flashes in the pan with that White Lightning liner with any powder until I opened it up from about .055 to 1/16" (0.625). Lost about 20 fps with the larger hole, but it should be about .070 to eliminate flashes in the pan. It is not the powder but the size of the hole.
 
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