I’m new to muzzleloading and I want to start out with a pistol. I’ve been going back and forth between brands and I’ve concluded a Lyman plains pistol might be a good fit for me. I saw the traditions ones and they are available but some have had quality control issues with them. For the Lyman there aren’t any available except I found a few kits for a very good price. Only problem is even though I’ve been shooting for years I have no experience In bluing a gun barrel. I’ve watched some videos about it, now I’m wondering if it’s something extra I want to invest in as I don’t plan to build guns in the long term. Or should I look at another type/name of a quality gun to start out with.
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Looking for some guidance here
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TrapperDude
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It sounds, based on your statement that investing in the tools and equipment needed to build a kit, that you would be better off getting a finished weapon.
I have only been into black powder for a couple of years and just have a pair of revolvers, one from Uberti and one from Pietta, along with a flintlock Traditions Trapper. I can tell you that my Trapper was ready for prime time, right out of the box. Sure, it could maybe use a little refinement of its lockwork to clean up the trigger pull if I don't use the set trigger, but as far as the overall fit, finish and functionality go, I have seen nothing wrong with the quality. The barrels also come from a respected Spanish barrel maker, and they are accurate.
I wouldn't rule out Traditions from the start.
I have only been into black powder for a couple of years and just have a pair of revolvers, one from Uberti and one from Pietta, along with a flintlock Traditions Trapper. I can tell you that my Trapper was ready for prime time, right out of the box. Sure, it could maybe use a little refinement of its lockwork to clean up the trigger pull if I don't use the set trigger, but as far as the overall fit, finish and functionality go, I have seen nothing wrong with the quality. The barrels also come from a respected Spanish barrel maker, and they are accurate.
I wouldn't rule out Traditions from the start.
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Cold bluing is easy; just clean & degrease the metal and wipe on cold blue liquid right out of the bottle. If you don't like it you can use bluing remover to start over. Doesn't require heating like the hot browning method.
those kit guns are pretty easy to put together
You will have to do some finish work on some stuff but not much. And bluing is a cinch.
And you get the gun for less than a finished one will cost.
You will have to do some finish work on some stuff but not much. And bluing is a cinch.
And you get the gun for less than a finished one will cost.
Winchester97
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I would suggest looking at prercussion revolvers instead. Lots of models, and either common maker, Pietta and Uberti is great, or other makers can be had in the used market. I would think you could get a nice 1851,1860 colt clone, or 1858 rem. Clone for around $300. Loaded properly, it's Hard to beat a percussion revolver for fun, or accuracy.... plus you have 5-6 rounds instead of 1.
Phil Coffins
69 Cal.
The Lyman Great Plains pistol is hard beat. There’s a thread here that covers them well.
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...-pistol-fans-here.111369/page-10#post-1955197
Read a few pages of this then you’ll understand.
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...-pistol-fans-here.111369/page-10#post-1955197
Read a few pages of this then you’ll understand.
Watch the want ads here.
There's a revolver for $220 right now.
I've bought several guns here, with no problems at all.
Welcome to a good time!
There's a revolver for $220 right now.
I've bought several guns here, with no problems at all.
Welcome to a good time!
Can't go wrong with a Lyman Plains pistol. Very accurate. 54 cal with 30-35 grains and a .530 ball and .010 patch.
If you decide to go revolver the 1858 is a good starter. Colt style can have a few issues to attend to but it's not bad.
With manufactures using CNC both Pietta and Uberti are typically good right out of the box. .454 ball on 20-25 grains FFF will get er dun. I use a thick mixture of wax and veggie oil for over ball seal. You'll find many opinions on that.
Always a good idea to completely disassemble and insure the surfaces are smooth and no burrs.
The 1858 is clean friendly. Remove the grips and put frame and cylinder in hot soapy water for 20-30 minutes then patch clean. Rinse in hot water, dry, light oil to all plus internals. Alcohol does a good job of getting the moisture out of internals.
Important with all BP guns is to clean asap after shooting.
If you decide to go revolver the 1858 is a good starter. Colt style can have a few issues to attend to but it's not bad.
With manufactures using CNC both Pietta and Uberti are typically good right out of the box. .454 ball on 20-25 grains FFF will get er dun. I use a thick mixture of wax and veggie oil for over ball seal. You'll find many opinions on that.
Always a good idea to completely disassemble and insure the surfaces are smooth and no burrs.
The 1858 is clean friendly. Remove the grips and put frame and cylinder in hot soapy water for 20-30 minutes then patch clean. Rinse in hot water, dry, light oil to all plus internals. Alcohol does a good job of getting the moisture out of internals.
Important with all BP guns is to clean asap after shooting.
What do you want the gun to do for you? For target shooting? Hunting?
As a back up on a traditional hunt? For personal defense? Collector?
The Lyman Brand is sourced from top manufacturers and will hold value
if you decide to trade or sell. Brazos John suggests considering a revolver
at a great price. Good idea. The revolvers do double duty as target shooters
and self-defense back-up. Study our Forefathers and fit their experience to your needs.
You will find the perfect traditional muzzleloader to honor our History & Sport.
As a back up on a traditional hunt? For personal defense? Collector?
The Lyman Brand is sourced from top manufacturers and will hold value
if you decide to trade or sell. Brazos John suggests considering a revolver
at a great price. Good idea. The revolvers do double duty as target shooters
and self-defense back-up. Study our Forefathers and fit their experience to your needs.
You will find the perfect traditional muzzleloader to honor our History & Sport.
Thank you for everyone’s responses. I’ll need to take a look again at my options. I’m definitely looking to find one to start out with so just target shoot. I also am interested in the historical aspect of it. I really like to own a 1860s Springfield as well as a flintlock someday.
I would strongly suggest getting a single shot pistol for your first muzzleloader. It will give you the needed experience of handling a pistol and black powder before you go into revolvers.
Captain Eddie
32 Cal
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Take a look at the Traditions Trapper pistol. It's the most accurate ML pistol I've ever owned and the kit is very easy to assemble.
Thanks for that but I had already called them earlier this week to verify they had it in stock as it’s always questionable these days. They confirmed it was not and their last gun was already spoken for.
Jedediah Starr. very good recommendation
. I'v purchased from those guys and was very pleased.
In that case, I guess it looks like a kit is in your future. I bought a Lyman 54 cal pistol kit in from MidSouth Shooter Supply a few months ago but it is on my back burner for now. Jedidiah Starr says they have them in stock, as I am sure you already know.
If bluing a barrel is your main worry, worry not! It's more tedious than difficult. If you take care and follow instructions, you can do it.
My first was a re-blue of a used FIE Kentucky rifle I got for a good price. The original 1970's finish was a splotchy brown; I was already working on the lock and trying to dress it up a bit, so I decided to reblue the bbl.
I already had a bench grinder, so I bought a brass wire wheel ($10?) and used that to both remove the old bluing and even up the metal surfaces. You could just use bluing remover solution if metal looks good, or, if carefull, a drill-mounted wire brush would work. Just be sure to get the finest, softest wire you can find. A coarse, hard wire will scratch up the surface badly.
I used acetone as a degreaser/cleaner. I bought Brownell's version of Pilkington's Bluing solution ($9 + shpg, I think), and a tiny crockpot (used for party dips &potporieaiux smelly stuff) for $3 at Goodwill. I put a coat hook I had lying around on the inside of a closet header trim board to hang the barrel from. I already had some steel wire, so I cut off 8" or so of that. I found a metric bolt in my collection that fit the nipple hole (mine is percussion), wrapped it with teflon tape, and plugged that hole. I got a pair of rubber stoppers at Lowes or HD for under $2, used that to plug the muzzle & seal the bore.
Other supplies were 0000 steel wool ($3- $4) (degreased with acetone) and some cotton make-up pads, little circles about 1-1/2" dia. I (ahem) borrowed a few cereamic ramekin-size bowls from the kitchen cabinets, but cleand-out pickle or olive or jelly jars would also work (and have lids, come to think of it). You'll need a small can of acetone and some oil to finish the barrel with.
The biggest expense for me was a rectangular boiling tank - but that was because I was doing a rifle barrel. If your kit has a 10" or shorter barrel, you might be able to find a large cook pot or maybe a metal baking pan that will work and fit on a stove burner.
So- this got long winded, sorry! My point is, if you read up on the bluing process, and get a handle on what the steps are, you can improvise "equipment" pretty dang cheaply and still get good to excellent results. Outside of the boiling tank, my whole bluing set up cost me maybe $40... and I've blued 3 barrels so far.
Dive in! The water's fine!
My first was a re-blue of a used FIE Kentucky rifle I got for a good price. The original 1970's finish was a splotchy brown; I was already working on the lock and trying to dress it up a bit, so I decided to reblue the bbl.
I already had a bench grinder, so I bought a brass wire wheel ($10?) and used that to both remove the old bluing and even up the metal surfaces. You could just use bluing remover solution if metal looks good, or, if carefull, a drill-mounted wire brush would work. Just be sure to get the finest, softest wire you can find. A coarse, hard wire will scratch up the surface badly.
I used acetone as a degreaser/cleaner. I bought Brownell's version of Pilkington's Bluing solution ($9 + shpg, I think), and a tiny crockpot (used for party dips &
Other supplies were 0000 steel wool ($3- $4) (degreased with acetone) and some cotton make-up pads, little circles about 1-1/2" dia. I (ahem) borrowed a few cereamic ramekin-size bowls from the kitchen cabinets, but cleand-out pickle or olive or jelly jars would also work (and have lids, come to think of it). You'll need a small can of acetone and some oil to finish the barrel with.
The biggest expense for me was a rectangular boiling tank - but that was because I was doing a rifle barrel. If your kit has a 10" or shorter barrel, you might be able to find a large cook pot or maybe a metal baking pan that will work and fit on a stove burner.
So- this got long winded, sorry! My point is, if you read up on the bluing process, and get a handle on what the steps are, you can improvise "equipment" pretty dang cheaply and still get good to excellent results. Outside of the boiling tank, my whole bluing set up cost me maybe $40... and I've blued 3 barrels so far.
Dive in! The water's fine!
Stony Broke
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I've always preferred to brown them instead of bluing. The browning procedure is pretty easy to do and the finish is easy to keep up afterward compared to a blued barrel.
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Laurel Mountain Forge is a cold browning solution, no heat is needed. It takes several applications to achieve the desired shade of brown of your choosing.
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I find personally the grip shape on the Traditions is very awkward; almost like they didn't want to use too much wood or something; it's cramped and un-comfortable, but that's just my take. The CVA's were better but not in production any longer. I found one new-in-box at a show and passed it over, wish I's picked it up.
