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Loose Frizzen

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WALKERs210

36 Cal.
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I have a Hawes 65cal Tower pistol that has set here for way too long. A few days ago I finally started looking it over and found the frizzen heel (for lack of better term) where it rubs against the spring was really disfigured. I attempted to clean up the area to let it slide smoother and let the frizzen open enough to put sparks in the pan. Now it is loose and wobbles quite a bit, I tried putting a small piece of leather between the frizzen and spring which helped somewhat. I just fired a few rounds but after two rds it was really difficult to get any sparks enough to set off the charge. Should I just replace the frizzen or attack problem from a different angle.
 
There is a slight space between the frizzen and the spring. I did put a small piece of leather under that point and it helped slightly. I feel it will wind up replacing the frizzen but have no idea as to which one to replace it with. I will say when it shoots for a pistol without sights is accurate and a "BLAST" to shoot.
 
"There is a slight space between the frizzen and the spring"

It sounds more like you have a problem with the spring rather than the frizzen. The spring should be keeping upward preassure on the frizzen when it is closed, throughout its travel and also when it is full open, so it shouldn't wobble when open. If 'twer mine to do I would heat the spring, open it up then reharden and temper it. Problem solved. If yu can't perform the bending, heating etc. then find a gunsmith who can. Several on this forum are capable of doing it.
 
"found the frizzen heel (for lack of better term) where it rubs against the spring was really disfigured. I attempted to clean up the area to let it slide smoother and let the frizzen open enough to put sparks in the pan. Now it is loose and wobbles quite a bit,"

This tells me that you may have cleaned up that projection, directly under the frizzen screw, that bears on the spring just a little too much. Now the spring is not doing it's job. If you have access to a MIG welder, try to build up that tab so that it contacts the spring again, reshape and polish and it should work again.
 
If he is comfortable with rehardening and tempering the spring (most people are not) not only will he need to open the spring to make contact, he will have to adjust the end geometry to spring open as well as to hold closed.
 
I had a Jap Tower pistol with some of the same problems. The main spring was broken and the frizzen was not hardened. I bought the gun for $25 so I could be pretty fearless with what I did to it. I had some spare Siler parts so I used them. I drilled a new hole so I could use the Siler mainspring. I made the Siler frizzen work with a bit of judicious grinding on both the pistol and the frizzen with my handy Dremel tool.

The gun shot reasonably well after that. While I was at it I removed a lot of excess wood and then died the stock black with leather stain. I sold it for $100 to a Pyrate reenactor.

If you don't have a lot of money invested in this pistol you can experiment and learn some valuable skills.

Many Klatch
 
Thanks for the input on this issue, I paid around $100 for it more to help a friend out than what I felt it was really worth. Last night I decided that I would attack the problem myself. I am not a gunsmith but have over the years handled many a problem with a clear head and have been successful 90% of the time so if I screw it up its not like I have a lot to loose and maybe something to learn. Again thanks to all.
 

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