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Loose powder/pellets/plastic quere???

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dpeper

32 Cal.
Joined
Mar 22, 2006
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Can anyone fill me in on their experiences with choosing powder and bullet combinations with respect to fouling and probable follow-up shot inaccuracy?

Specifically, am I the only one to surmise that a sabot, with all that plastic around the bullet, will leave more melted plastic residue down the barrel shot after shot (that is, if you can punch down more than two shots without cleaning)? How about comparing the fouling of a powerbelt bullet compared to a sabot...it has less plastic at the base? AND...compare that to a T/C maxi-hunter or maxi-ball?

Now, throw in the difference between using loose pyrodex or triple seven verses the pellets? I think the additive that keeps those pellets together must also leave some additional fouling residue behind in the barrel.

So, my hypothesis is: stay with loose powder and don't use sabots. What do you folks think??? :confused:
 
IMO sabots do not leave melted plastic in the barrel. Unless you are shooting in 100+ degree weather and shooting a lot of shots without cooling the barrel between shots.
As for fouling with pellets, I have no idea if they leave more fouling. I don't think they have an additive to keep them together. I think they are formed as damp powder and dried.

I don't advocate the use of pellets or sabots but don't be affraid of them thinking they will melt in your barrel or leave excessive fouling.

You can't go wrong with loose powder and a pure lead conical bullet IMO.

HD
 
Alphamale I have never shot the new sabots or pellets, cost too much, I make my own bullets, RBS and maxies. I do know the pellets don't work in snail breeches or flint locks. If you want a cheap cleaner try Equal parts Murphy Oil Soap-Alcohol- Peroxide. Dilly
 
A friend of mine uses both the sabots and pellets in his inline with no fouling. I think the main issue is the pellets dont fire well without the hot direct ignition provided by an inline with the shotgun primers. And the issue with the sabots will be the twist of your barrel. I don't recall the suggested twist for sabots.
 
well I'll do my best. Pellitized powder is very difficult to ignite in a trsditional muzzleloader, and in carbine length barrels may not burn completely. The twist of the rifleing in a traditional ml is too slow to stabelize the saboted bulet (they need a 32 twist or faster) and lastly , sabots do leave plastic fouling in the barrel and need a strong solvent such as shooters choice to remove it. If you want the most accuracy and enjoyment from your ml leave the pellets and sabots alone and stay with what it was ment to shoot in the first place.Real BP and lead projectiles ,either prb or conicals..
 
Rebel said:
Friends don't let friends shoot pellets or sabots. :grin:

Alphamale needs intensive therapy.

Administer Goex under patched RB STAT!

Daily follow up care is indicated with Pyrodex anonymous at,"The Muzzleloading forum" until brain washing symptoms cease.

Don't let another one fall victim to the evils of unspeakable lines or pellet addiction. :shake:
 
cheapeats said:
A friend of mine uses both the sabots and pellets in his inline with no fouling. I think the main issue is the pellets dont fire well without the hot direct ignition provided by an inline with the shotgun primers. And the issue with the sabots will be the twist of your barrel. I don't recall the suggested twist for sabots.

Your Friend? :bull: You mean the one reading this right? BUSTED! :haha:
 
Come on look at my name, I have had one muzzleloader since I started shooting and it is NOT an inline, because when I started hunting It was "primitive firearms" season not "muzzleloading" My main problem is since they have allowed inlines the # of hunters has gone up, I always enjoyed seeing 1 or 2 other people not 10 or 20. But no offense taken I thought about what I wrote and thought that sounded like BS too.
 
OK, how about telling us what rifle you are using and what twist your barrel has?

Shameless as I am, I do admit to using an inline weapon for my last deer, but next season it will be .54 GPR with RB. Anyway, let me introduce myself as a late "convert" here; I have had the same questions as you post.

Forget the plastic fouling issue. Forget powerbelt bullets - they expand way too easily, even in deer. I tried heavy conicals like the 385 grain great plains stuff but the recoil is -eh- noticeable and they do not expand at all in deer unless you hit bone.

So I have come to the conclusion that roundballs do have just the right mix of penetration and expansion for deer. Using real black, loose pyrodex or the new black mag 3 stuff with reasonable loads will work very well and there will be no funky cleanup business to worry about.

Find out what you like best.
Steve
 
I shoot a CVA Frontier Carbine .50 cal with a 1:48 twist I have shot "bufalo bullets" just to try it but 90% of what I have shot is patched round ball. I hunt with the round ball and have had satisfactory results(if only my ignition worked as well as the balls) I have shot both pyrodex and black powder with little difference in performance.
 
No I have not, I believe that I mainly used dynamit nobel. Most of my trouble has occurred during foul weather (our muzzleloading season for deer is mid to late Deecember)I am not sure if I just needed better protection from the weather snow rain, or sleet. I know on one ocassion the powder was caked hard at the bottom of the barrel.
 
cheapeats said:
I am not sure if I just needed better protection from the weather snow rain, or sleet. I know on one ocassion the powder was caked hard at the bottom of the barrel.
A "Cows Knee", a leather cover for the ignition area, will help keep things dry, as well a a plastic sandwich bag with an elastic, over the muzzle. I should have followed my own advice, during our last muzzleloader season. (First week in December). It had snowed about ten inches, and while climing a hill, I slipped, and went foward. I wound up with a barrel full of snow! I will use a Cow's Knee if I take a stand on a rainey day. It helps.
 

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