Lube War #1

[Stumpkiller]

PS I just carried a small tin (Altiods Gum) of it around work in my pocket for two hours with no 'weeping' out of the tin. Try that with Natural Lube and you'd look like you had a 'condition'. Freezer Test tonight.

Hint for guys using their own 'antiqued' tins. Put a strip of tinfoil agaist the inside against the hinges (or twist-opener the Kiwi tins) and rub it smooth before you pour the melted grease in. This keeps oils in, air out, and allows you to fill the tin right up to the top.

 

[buckknife]

Stumpkiller can ya give us a update on the lubes on the metal plates.Im intrested on how things are coming along.
Took the 45 caplock pistol up for a litter more experymenten.Last time i removed all traces of oil,coated with lard,patched it and shot five shots with a lite lard lubed patched,cleaned it somewhat with lard and ran some cold water threw it,patched and replayed the lard.24 hours latter i pulled the old brown an red out of er.Cleaned it up good and coated it with the clp.That was a week ago.
Tyed it all again but this time i dint use any water what so ever,just lard.24 hours later no rust.Left the ramrod with the lard patch in the bore and the hammer down.No rust in the snail yet that i can see with a light.The patch looks alot blacker than it did.dont know if thats good or bad but as of right now its worken.Maybe this is how they keep ther rifles from rusten when they were new an in time they maybe did become seasoned where they really dint have to clean much at all.
Im gonna keep a eye on er for a spell see what happens. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Stumpkiller]

After two weeks (several days of 85% humidity):

1 Lehigh Valley Lube
<< Tiny amount of rust along one edge. None in center grid section (could have been a poor application on my part). Unchanged from Wk 1

2 Olive Oil
<< Even coat of very light rust

3 WD-40
<< Slightly rusted where powder flashed.

4 Natural Lube 1000 +
<< Slight rust where powder flashed. About the same as WD-40

5 My grease lube mix #4
<< None! No rust as yet.

6 My liquid lube & solvent mix (a "moose milk" type)
<< Small dots - pin head size - I assume to be rust where moisture was trapped in the film under the oil. Not much change from Wk 1

7 Glycerine
<< Dark spotty stains showing rust. Nastiest region on the whole grid - including the untreated controls.

7-1/2 Control
<<Light, even rust coating the entire section

8 Castor Oil
<< Some staining

9 Witch Hazel
<< Streaky light rust

10 Murphy's Oil Soap
<<OK - no rust

11 Mutton Tallow
<< Evenly rusted

12 T/C Number 13 Solvent
<< Light rust in both the flashed and unflashed sections

13 CLP Breakfree
<< One, fingerprint sized dark stain. Does not appear to be rust (unchanged from Wk 1)

14 Control
<< Evenly rusted

15 Hoppe's Lubricating Oil
<< Some dark staining with dots of rust

16 Beeswax (rubbed in dry w/rag)
<< OK - no rust

17 Beeswax/Mutton Tallow/Crisco (equal parts mixture)
<< OK - no rust

I am of the opinion that if you find yourself with no protective treatments for your gun but you're near a grocery store you should wipe down the metal with Murphy's Oil Soap until you can get to it. $2.49/32 oz and it has shown to be the best powder solvent (with water) and as good as the best of the protectant coatings so far. I'm going to switch from Ivory Soap to Murphy's Oil in my hot water for my gun cleaning ritual.

Have not yet had a chance to fire my simplified castor oil grease lube (aka Stumpkiller's Moose Snot). I checked on a patched ball I set into a loading block a week ago and the lube was still moist and slick - a good result.

 

[roundball]

I am of the opinion that if you find yourself with no protective treatments for your gun but you're near a grocery store you should wipe down the metal with Murphy's Oil Soap until you can get to it.

........OR.......don't leave your rifle laying out in the back yard for two weeks....... :: :: :: ::

 

TEST RESULTS are in.
T/C 1:48 good for nothing twist in caliber .50, 60 grains of Elephant 2fg, Rem. #11 caps Hornady swagged .490 r/b, with .018 ticking slathered in Stumpkillers Super Slippery Snot.
I always swab between shots. Not this time. Every load went down slicker'n a raw egg in beer.
Accuracy sucked at 3" at 25 yards, but that's my experience with T/C barrels and p/r/b.
Shot #1 over the P-35 was 1192 and velocity increased to 1569 as a hi as fouling increased. That's why I swab, for consistancy.
Now the purpose of this little test was to see if the Moose Snot would protect the barrel if left uncleaned like the frontiersman must have done, I doubt they cleaned after a days hunting, maybe firing but one or two shots.
I fired nine without swabbing and #10 is down the tube without cleaning the gun. I did wipe off the outside metal with Ballistol, but the bore is treated only with a p.r.b. slathered in Stumpy's Moose Snot.
It's hot, and very humid, the rifle is in the humid garage and I'll check it for rust tomorrow. I'm betting there will be NONE! :bull:

 

[Stumpkiller]

Yoiks! I didn't intend for it to go TOTALLY uncleaned. :shocking: :shocking: :shocking: But that's a good test. (Especially in someone else's barrel ! ! ) The last load cleans the one prior.

You are a brave, brave man to trust a knut like myself. I hope you gooped up that last patch pretty well. ::

I recommend you verify it's de-primed and slide a lubed patch down occasionally/every other day as your test proceeds, unless you want to see how long it takes to p-p-p-p-pit the metal.

I have noticed the least lubed patches seem more accurate than the extremely well buttered ones. My 1:48 T/C barrel never took to round balls either. Loves conicals, though. My .54 T/C 1:48 shoots round balls fine. Go figure. If the barrel survives ( :shocking try lubing some conicals with the Moose Snot and see if you get good results. I'm hoping to get out this weekend and futz around some.

Thanks for sticking your chin out. I'd be curious to know how Lehigh Lube or Natural Lube 1000 Plus would do under similar circumstances? Got another barrel? :haha: :haha: :haha:

 

Why yes i do have another barrel, but it's on that little Lyman Deerstalker and that particular 1:48 shoots danged near anything really well, so we ain't gonna rust that'n up none.
I'm bet'n my barrel will NOT rust at all. Yes I slathered that last patch pretty well, the I thort, well, the mountainman mighta run a lubed patch down on his charge. Why not? If I couldn't clean my gun and I were in the wilderness that's exactly what I'd do. I'd run a bear grease patch on the charge and let the greased patch pull out excess fouling and coat the metal. I betcha she don't rust.
We'll see. :redface: :: :: ::

 

[buckknife]

Welp the pistol i cleaned up with lard looked good at first but on day 3 the dreaded rust apeared.Im done experyment.I do belive the old boys barrels may have been as brown in the inside as the out.I did recoat the bore each day,but didnt do no good.It looked good the first 2 days.So maybe it would work if they shot it about every day an gave it a good greason in the evenens an adventurely the bore became season.Probably would work,but i cant shoot everyday.Wish i could.
Keep up the experyments

 

I'm thinkin' it were tha lard yee wuz usin'. Lard ain't very good at penetratin' thru tha crud and coatin' tha metal.
Stumpy's Stuff seems ta be purdy good at coatin' tha metal.
We be a seein' directly. It's rainin' out so thet bar'l orta be 'bout rusted shut by mornin'. :no:

 

[Stumpkiller]

OooOOoOOoOoO! Rain, too? My stomach hurts. I can see I need to put a disclaimer on every tin:

"Money back if not completely delighted. Do not use without adult supervision. Your results may vary. Stumpkiller Industries warranties this product until such time as the factory seal is broken."

I gotta say, you are fearless. Or, as they say in Germania, "knuckin futz".

 

Well Stumpy, I checked the barel this mornin'! The barrel is rusted shut, tighter 'n a drum, couldn't get a greased B'-B' down it.
Just kidin'! :haha: :bull: :haha: :bull:
Time to go out in tha rain and shoot out charge # 10. I'll run a dry patch down bore to check fer rust....rust....NOT brown residue from shooting.
More to follie...(nice word play heh?) :winking:

 

The saga continues. I checked the loaded barrel for rust. None!. Brown residue that I don't think is rust, just dilute fouling mixed with your concoction.
Fired 5 more shots WITHOUT swabbing at 25 yards. Same loads and techniques. All shots loaded easily. One miss fire. Dummy fergitted to powder tha thing! :redface:
Dribbled in sum 4fg Swiss and "popped" the ball out and proceeded as normal. Everything loaded quite easily.
Charge # 16 is in the barrel. Ran a Moose Snot patch down on top of the charge. Will check tormorrow for rust.
Weather...wet, misty, hi humidity. 16 charges WITHOUT cleaning of any kind.
Just wiped down the outside metal with Ballistol.
Oh, and by the way, (got any fried crow?) 4 of the 5 shots were in a tight little 1.25" group with a called flyer out to 2"! ::

 

[Stumpkiller]

Whew! All good news. I hope, as crash test dummy, you are wearing the proper safety equipment.

PS It takes a big man to admit to ramming a powderless ball on a public forum. :applause:

 

Whew! All good news. I hope, as crash test dummy, you are wearing the proper safety equipment.

PS It takes a big man to admit to ramming a powderless ball on a public forum. :applause:

There are only two kinds of muzzle loader shooters. Those who have rammed down a powderless ball and those WHO WILL! :winking:

 

[roundball]

Oh, and by the way, (got any fried crow?) 4 of the 5 shots were in a tight little 1.25" group with a called flyer out to 2"! ::

:: :: :: :: ::

 

I know of no one who has been in this sport for more than a year who hasn't loaded bare-ball, no powder.(bare-ball has always meant no-powder to us)
; After 30 years in the sport, the frequency of bare-balling in less to non-existant, for the time being, that is.-HA!
; After senility sets in, the frequency will increase again. For some of us, perhaps we're already there.
; I see no test here for Bear's Oil or Bear Grease. Neither rusted on me (nor the rifle's bore) when I used the stuff back in the 70's and first 1/2 of the 80's, but then the bore was cleaned at the end of the day's hunt if fired. Neither of these lubes are suitable for shooting all day without cleaning, in small bores. The .58 was OK as well as the .69 and .75. Small bores seemed to be more fouling prone & required wiping or firing a squib load with a spit patch to clean the barrel.

 

[Swampman]

I am of the opinion that if you find yourself with no protective treatments for your gun but you're near a grocery store you should wipe down the metal with Murphy's Oil Soap until you can get to it.

Olive oil is better, and historically correct. Murphy's Oil Soap is quite suitable for anything shown on it's label. I don't use any commerical products, nor do I think complicated homebrews are necessary.

 

[roundball]

swampman, looks like you're up to your same old tricks again, acting the same way you did before you were pressured to leave the forum.

You've posted something false here which has clearly been edited to make it look like "roundball said" these things and I never made any such post.

I challenge you to post the URL right now to an original post of mine showing that I made these statements.

A Forum Moderator or Claude needs to investigate this activity by swampman, a.k.a. mark lewis.

 

[Blizzard of '93]

I suspect many of the old-timers simply re-loaded, swabbed the bore with wet tow/patch then lubed the bore with what they had on hand (probably rendered animal fat)when dry. keeping the rifle loaded.

 

[Claude Mathis]

You've posted something false here which has clearly been edited to make it look like "roundball said" these things and I never made any such post.

Just to clarify... The first part of the above quote was made by Stumpkiller, not Roundball.
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