Yes - I use a 1/10" card wad on the powder, then a lube ball that will press out to 1/8" thick in the case, then one or two wax paper wads cut from wax paper with the wad punch, then the paper patched bullet that has the beeswax/vas or beeswax/neetsfoot oil lube rubbed into the aper patch. Moose Snot, made thicker by the additon of beeswax or reduction in oil, will also be a very good lube, I'm certain. The powder charge is compressed 1/8" BEFORE putting the wads in the case & NOT compressed with the wad, but by a separate operation using a die with plunger.
: The test is to shoot 5 rounds without cleaning or running a patch down the barrel between shots. In dry weather, you can blow down the barrel betwen shots with a blow tube, commonly used in BP Silouette competition. THEN, push a dry patch dwon the barrel. ALL of the powder fouing should be removed with NONE sticking in the barrel. If the fouling isn't removed, you need either more lube, or a different lube. I have tested this system in 3 1/4" .45 and.50 cals as well as 2 1/10" case .50's and .45's and 1.85", .50 cal case. They all shoot properly with Beesewax/Vas 60/40 and as accurately as the rifle or I am capable of.
; Now, dry powder fouling sticking in the chamber only means the lube is too hard. Dry powder fouling at the muzzle means there isn't enough lube for that case or load. Fouling sticking throughout means the llube isn't good enough, ie: it is a smokeless lube unsuitable for BP, or too hard - It just doesn't work at all.
; Paper patched bullets are the hardest to get to shoot, commonly.
; We have experimented with bullet size, right from being able to push the paper patched bullet down the barrel (pure lead only)& well undersized using the patch to bring it up to bore (not groove) dia. Much of the original Sharps ammo was loaded this way. Smokeless loads won't slug the bulelt sufficiently to shoot well wit this method, ormally. If you can't seat ammo in the chamber due to crusting fouling, this form of loading will allow multiple shots with ammo seated full length as the bullet/patch is only bore size. The .45 3 1/4" and .50 3 1/4" both shot into MOA using these undersized bullets.
; The lube ball is necessary as todays powder is dry burning & prone to caking, unlike the very good powders of the 19th century. Swiss comes as cloe to these great powders as we can get. GOEX is plum poor, but with the proper methods laid out, can still work well.
; My .50 2 1/10" on the .50 Alaskan case shot into 2 MOA at 450yds. off the hood of the truck, elbow rest, with this type of loading, but with grooved lubed bullets. I have a mould made for a 500gr. PP bullet in .50 but have't tried it yet. The shorter cases generally work better with grooved, lubed bullets due to lack of room for the wads and lube ball.
; O- the wax paper wads are necessary to prevent lube migration to the bullet's patch. If the patch gets "Wet" withlube, it might not leave the bullet right away, casuing a flyer- that's HAPPENS - take my work for this.
; Buy Paul Mathews books on BP Ctg. Loading - all of them. They are indispensible & necessary for the understnding of what is required & WHY.