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I'm one of those guy's that has used Wonderlube/1000 plus/ bore butter since the day it was introduced and have never had a problem with it if you follow the original directions
1. start with a absolutely clean barrel with no petroleum product what so ever !
2. use only water to clean hot works best as the barrel dry's better and is still warm to melt the lube when you wipe the bore with a lubed patch to put the gun away for storage.
3. never use any soap to clean !
just finished a shoot for the public fired 1100 rounds over 2 days of non stop shooting with 4 guns. 2 of them were bought used and cleaned and then have not seen any thing but wonderlube since, T/C and CVA. 2 are kit guns that my son and grand son built 1 CVA 54, 1 Cabela's 50 both Hawken's they have never seen anything but wonderlube. All of these fired in excess of 100 rounds without cleaning this weekend each day for 2 days using goex 3f and pre lubed wonder lubed patches.

It takes longer to boil the water then it takes to clean the guns inside and out ! we do make our own patches and buy our lube in bulk a case at a time, when we find a bolt of cloth that meets our standards we buy the whole thing saves us hundreds of dollars a year.
 
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Go get TOTW mink oil it will never wet the powder, I've left guns loaded for over a month of hunting and it fires every time. Warm tap water will clean as well as boiling water and won't flash rust your barrel. I never swab or clean till I am done shooting with TOTW mink oil.
 
Go get TOTW mink oil it will never wet the powder, I've left guns loaded for over a month of hunting and it fires every time. Warm tap water will clean as well as boiling water and won't flash rust your barrel. I never swab or clean till I am done shooting with TOTW mink oil.

Ditto with all of the above.
 
I use Dutch Schoultz’s method. Works great!
Soak patch material in 1:7 Ballistol to water. Wring it out through your fingers. Lay the strips horizontally to dry. Once dry to the touch I can still feel and smell the Ballistol they are ready. Doesn’t contaminate the powder.
You can save a ton of $$$ if you used mineral oil & alcohol mix.
 
ALWAYS I have simply bought them pre-lubed. Keep them in the plastic bag they come in or transfer them to an airtight container and they will last indefinitely. I don't have time to make my own, and besides, if you have to buy patch material anyway, why not buy it already lubed?
 
I use 50/50 beeswax/tallow. In colder climates, you can go lighter on the beeswax. Never had any issue with powder, even when I goop up a patch more than intended.
 
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Mink oil works but what do you mean by "doesn't have the snob factor"...
It’s rendered fat. Hog fat, lard for me works as well as mink oil, but I buy mink oil any way. Has to be the snob factor of having mink, because I can’t think of a reason I continue to use it when lard works
 
Worst results patch was to wet and powder would not ignite.
For a patch to be wet enough to prevent ignition it would have to be very very wet and the charge very small. I'm pretty sure that the loading process alone would squeeze much of the wet out of the patch.

Super wet patches not a good idea, but I think any ignition problems were caused by something other then the ball patch. Wiping between shots with a too wet patch can definitely cause misfires though.
 
I'm one of those guy's that has used Wonderlube/1000 plus/ bore butter since the day it was introduced and have never had a problem with it if you follow the original directions
1. start with a absolutely clean barrel with no petroleum product what so ever !
2. use only water to clean hot works best as the barrel dry's better and is still warm to melt the lube when you wipe the bore with a lubed patch to put the gun away for storage.
3. never use any soap to clean !
just finished a shoot for the public fired 1100 rounds over 2 days of non stop shooting with 4 guns. 2 of them were bought used and cleaned and then have not seen any thing but wonderlube since, T/C and CVA. 2 are kit guns that my son and grand son built 1 CVA 54, 1 Cabela's 50 both Hawken's they have never seen anything but wonderlube. All of these fired in excess of 100 rounds without cleaning this weekend each day for 2 days using goex 3f and pre lubed wonder lubed patches.

It takes longer to boil the water then it takes to clean the guns inside and out ! we do make our own patches and buy our lube in bulk a case at a time, when we find a bolt of cloth that meets our standards we buy the whole thing saves us hundreds of dollars a
 
Wonderlube/bore butter were the reasons that made me design my own lube. I tired of coming in from a hunt, only to find my bore full of rust. Mink oil was accurate, reloaded nicely, but again, in the field, it's protection against the elements was poor.

A ton of lube recipes out there. Figure out what covers your needs.

This book written in 1942, includes letters far back from 1925 to 1927 and you know what many of the letters inquire? What's the best patch lube... what's the best patch material.... what's the best rifling twist fir my round ball.. it just amazes me how these questions just go around and around to this day.
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Wonderlube is hated by so many because of the seasoning lie. But I don't see that it is worse than other products when used to lube patches. My store-bought pre-cut and pre-lubed patches have performed fine lo these many years.
100% ditto on that.

I used it for many years with excellent accuracy and absolutely no problems. I started using it with no knowledge of the seasoning claim and therefore cleaned as usual. Never made sense to me when I did hear of it.

But as a lube I had nothing but good luck with it in competition and hunting. Only quit using it when it got so expensive.
 

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