Well this past X-mas I bought a New Lyman GP. Tomorrow will be my first time out with it to the range. I have the barrel all clean and etc. but I'm not sure how the double trigger works. The rear trigger doesn't move at all. Is it supposed to ? The front trigger is fine. Any suggestions ?Thanks Steve
-
Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.
We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.
Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103
Lyman Great Plain / double trigger
- Thread starter steve1
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
You mean like "froze" don't move? Or does it just not do anything?
Could be a piece of wood stuck in there from the inletting.
Pull the trigger guard then the triggers, don't fret nothing will "sproing" outta there.
We'll help ya out, It should look like this;
They use a heavy packing grease from the factory as they have no idea how long something will sit on the shelf. It can get hard an gooey, a good cleaning in oil solvent is the first thing needed,,
Pull the trigger guard then the triggers, don't fret nothing will "sproing" outta there.
We'll help ya out, It should look like this;
They use a heavy packing grease from the factory as they have no idea how long something will sit on the shelf. It can get hard an gooey, a good cleaning in oil solvent is the first thing needed,,
The rear trigger "set's" in a notch on the front trigger, then when the front trigger is pulled that leaf spring on the trigger (left on first pic) drive the rear trigger bar into the lock.
You do not have to use this feature, you can use just the front trigger alone.
The idea is to use the little screw between the triggers to adjust the amount of engagement the rear has with the front, making the front trigger feel like a hair trigger.
this is a different trigger but the principle is the same;
The screw on that leaf spring (top picture) adjusts how hard the rear hits the lock,,
You do not have to use this feature, you can use just the front trigger alone.
The idea is to use the little screw between the triggers to adjust the amount of engagement the rear has with the front, making the front trigger feel like a hair trigger.
this is a different trigger but the principle is the same;
The screw on that leaf spring (top picture) adjusts how hard the rear hits the lock,,
necchi Thank you soooo much. I appreciate you taking out the time to fully explain it. For a moment there I thought something was wrong with the rifle. But after your explanation I understand it fully. Thanks again
ps Off to the range tomorrow ,if it doesn't rain.
ps Off to the range tomorrow ,if it doesn't rain.
One of my few gripes with the Lyman GPR is the amount of force it takes to set the rear trigger.
If you notice, there is a screw behind the rear trigger.
Screwing it IN will push the heavy rear triggers spring up which will reduce the amount of pressure it takes to "set" the trigger.
There is a limit to how much the spring pressure can be reduced though.
If it is reduced too much, the rear trigger won't have enough power to trip the sear and fire the gun.
Also, the trigger guard needs to be removed to get a good angle of attack on that spring adjustment screw.
If you notice, there is a screw behind the rear trigger.
Screwing it IN will push the heavy rear triggers spring up which will reduce the amount of pressure it takes to "set" the trigger.
There is a limit to how much the spring pressure can be reduced though.
If it is reduced too much, the rear trigger won't have enough power to trip the sear and fire the gun.
Also, the trigger guard needs to be removed to get a good angle of attack on that spring adjustment screw.
Similar threads
