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lyman great plains models?

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SKS_madman

40 Cal.
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What is the difference between the GPR, the GPR hunter, and the deerstalker (this is ad different type than the first 2, but is it even made in flint/how good is it by comparison?) ? What would you recommend on a first build and what caliber?
 
GPR is more or less traditional sights on a 32" barrel with a 1 in 60" twist.

The hunter is the same stock design and barrel length, but the barrel is drilled and tapped for a receiver sight (sold separately) and has a 1 in 32" twist.

The barrels on the GPR and the hunter are interchangeable.

The deerstalker has a 24" barrel with a 1 in 48" twist. The stock is different from the GPR models...flat butt, straighter, more modern looking.

I think they might have an on-line catalog and picks... google on "Lyman".
 
And, let me add... the GPR and GPR Hunter have double set triggers, while the Deerstalker has only a single trigger.

Yes, all are sidelocks, available in flint or percussion, and in both left or right hand versions.
 
I have a GPR in flint, and it was actually my first flintlock; shoots extremely well, has taken a lot of game, and won some contests as well. The only problem I had with it was the lock, and I did convert it from the lock that came on it to an Ashmore from L&R. Made it a much better gun, very reliable. The orginal lock was not well made, steel too soft, would not reliably spark.

ps: I also pulled the triggers-as double set triggers they did not adjust well enough to suit me. I found that (at that time) TC Hawken triggers were interchangeable, I had a set, tossed them in. I would probably work out a trigger replacement as well. So, I would recommend the gun, with a fairly early $150 to $175 upgrade (lock and trigger), :results:
 
had some work to do; but that was before L&R came out with locks designed to fit right in.

I chose that one because it was closest to a Hawken, in my research, by looks anyway. And, the GP looks closer to what I have seen in pictures of Hawkens, so it seemed like the right thing to do. But Lyman has a spring in the lock, which threw me. Got one lock screw thar really does nothing, just sits there and fills up a hole. Ended up getting a brass plate made to fit between lock and mortise, to make it all line up right.

I wouldn't do it that way now; I'd get one of those L&R locks that are specifically designed as replacements for that particular gun. Takes a lot of work out of the project.
 
Thanks AZ, if I buy the GPR (traditional) I may replace the lock later on if it proves unreliable. Having the "frizzen" (is this the right name to the little part that gets hit by the flint?) hardened should fix this shouldn't it?
 
having the frizzen hardened will help; something I never quite got good at. I'm not sure how long it would hold, if a long time that's great. Those L&R replacement frizzens seem to work forever, never had a problem with any of them. That's why I suggested it. Try it as is for a spell, but if you have trouble you know you got an out.
 
I have the GPR in flint and the only thing I had to do to it to get it shooting right was drill the touch hole out to one sixteenth inch. Oh yes and get some real black powder, Goex 3f. The triple seven would not shoot in it.
Old Charlie
 
danl, thanks, I like the look of BP guns but the terms are HARD! :crackup: I figure to harden trhe frizzen I could just heat it to a warm red glow then quench it.


Old Charlie, why buy a BP rifle if I ain't shooting BP? :grey:
 
Charlie, why buy a BP rifle if I ain't shooting BP?

At the time I didn't know any better. Live and learn I guess.
Old Charlie
 

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