Lyman or J. Tanner mold?

[Matt85]

well im in need of two round ball molds. first i need a .695 for my musket. second, i need a .570 and that caliber brings this question.

what do you think i should pick, a Lyman .570 mold or have Jeff Tanner make me a .570 mold?

ive got a mold from each maker and neither are bad. but ive never owned a round ball mold from Lyman so i can speak for their quallity.

the lyman molds seem durable and long lasting. they also come with a sprew cutter which takes a step out of the process and makes the balls look nicer (for what thats worth). the downside is they are expensive.

the J. Tanner molds are nice and the brass seems to heat up quickly and hold heat well enough. his prices are very reasonable and the ball dimensions are good. the onley issues ive ever had is his one size fits all grooves for the mold handles tend to make closing the mold a bit finicky. the lack of a sprue cutter means there is a bit more work involved in casting.

im sorta torn between the two molds...
thanks
-Matt

 

I just ordered a Tanner mold for a flint gun I hope to have around the first of June or so. The lack of a sprue cutter bothers me a little bit, but I have yet to see anything but good opinions of Tanner molds. He's filling an important - maybe even critical - niche in available round ball sizes.
I like Lyman molds. A lot. I’ve cast thousands of round balls and center fire bullets out of Lyman molds. I even had a Lyman mold for an original style Sharps paper cartridge bullet with the tail for tying the cartridge. If time travel was possible, I’d go back to the sixties and buy a selection of all the odd sizes Lyman used to make. Back in those days you had to cast round balls.
In a sort of sad irony, the only round ball mold sizes Lyman still makes are ones that are also available as ready-to-go swaged balls from Hornady and Speer. If you acquire an original or, for whatever reason, need something not “standard”, you are SOL. Except for Jeff Tanner.
For that reason alone, unless I am disappointed with the mold that I have coming, he will get all my mold business in the future. Lyman has forgotten the shooters that made them the “best”.

 

[ihuntsnook]

I bought a .568 mould from Jeff Tanner last year. At Dixon's Gun Maker's Fair I found a pair of nippers that are perfect for removing the sprue. I wanted a slightly undersize ball that would load easier than the 570 swaged balls I was shooting, and it worked out well, even with some hardened lead I bought online. Tanner's service was remarkable. I accidentally paid him too much and the refund was included with mold, which I received about 10 days after the order. Very happy with Mr. Tanner and his mould.

 

[Many Klatch]

After a number of years of casting, I have had a Lyman mold warp so that it was no longer usable. I haven't had any of my Tanner molds that long but I don't think the brass molds will warp.

A nice sharp set of side cutters will remove almost all of the sprue from a Tanner molded ball.

Many Klatch

 

[Dave Marsh]

I'd go with a Tanner mold. I have had nothing but good experiences with them over other molds. :thumbsup:

 

[BrownBear]

Here are side cutters that really shine for cutting prues. Silly cheap, but they cut flush to the ball like no others. About as close to "sprueless" as I've seen.

 

[Billnpatti]

Okay, let me start out by saying that this is just my opinion. Both the Lyman and the Tanner molds will work quite well and both are quality products. If you have deep pockets, I'd go with the Tanner. However, if you are like me and you have to get the biggest bang for your buck that you can, I'd buy a Lee. They are a darned good mold and quite a bit less expensive than either the Tanner or Lyman molds. I have used Lee almost exclusively for all my round ball casting for more years than I care to think about, and none of them have given me a bit of trouble. I did have one of them gall where the sprue cutter goes across the top of the mold. It was my fault not the fault of the mold. I had let the sprue cutter get loose and lead had gotten between the cutter and the top of the mold. I cleaned off the top of the mold, the bottom of the sprue cutter and polished off the galled surface of the top of the mold and it has served me very well ever since. Now, I pay closer attention to my sprue cutters and have had no further issues. I have had no warping problems. The Lee molds just serve me quite well at a much lesser cost than either Lyman or Tanner molds.

 

[BrownBear]

Problem is, Lee makes only a .575 and no .570. Dunno about .695, but kinda makes me wonder.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Problem is, Lee makes only a .575 and no .570. Dunno about .695, but kinda makes me wonder.

I have never used a Tanner. But have never heard bad about them. He is able to fill niches with his "any size" abilities. Lymans are fine I have used many many-many times.
Lees are what they are.
Cutting sprues off is, to me, not a big deal. It is more time in the shop. And, it is something that can be safely done while enjoying a cold beer.

 

[necchi]

Lyman.

 

[Matt85]

i use a Lee mold to make my .490 balls and it works great but as said above Lee doesnt make a .570.

my recent gripe about the tanner molds are when mine gets hot it starts having trouble closing. lots of shaking and tapping to get it to close correctly. im considering trying to put some washers in the handle channels to get the mold to wiggle less in the handles.

necchi why do you prefer Lyman?

thanks all
-matt

 

[Little Wattsy]

Lee... :wink:

 

[Jim Blair]

If I'm in no great need or hurry I watch E-bay.Often times you can pick up those roundball Lyman molds in sizes they don't offer anymore for half price or less than new ones.

 

[necchi]

It's easier to control the temp.
The steel blocks hold a constant heat better IMHO, so you can get a rythm going to your casting session.

I do use Lee also, I'm not trying to knock'm

I've never had a Tanner, but brass and no sprue cutter kinda turns me off.
When I set down to cast it's a task I want to accomplish with goals of Quality and Consistancy, it's not a novelty thing anymore useing neat old style tools to get a few ball.

It's taken me years to get the Lyman molds I have, cause they are expensive, but there's no doubt I like them and they'll last me years.
I did warp a Lyman sprue plate once, I set the blocks near the flame to heat'm up faster. Well the sprue plate heated faster than the blocks and warped. I pulled the plate off another mold and set to casting. I had replacement in a week.

 

[Matt85]

looks like i may go with the tanner mold for cost purposes more then any thing else. if i remember correctly he onley charged me 10 pounds last time for shipping. if the cost is the same then that would make 55 pounds or around $87 for both molds.

i was gonna buy the .695 from him any way so i figure ill just add the .570 to the order to save money.

-matt

 

[wayne1967]

Tanner for sure if you want a special size. i've got 2 of his moulds. He'll make any size you want up to cannon balls :grin:

 

[tiger13]

If we want to have access to specialists of our sport, we should support them. I have used lyman years ago. But I buy from Mr Tanner now. Same as I used to buy from Rich Pierce. if we don't support the little guys, they will disappear.

 

[floyd1350]

i use a .570 tanner mold and think it is excellent. have shimmed lee mold handles with brass washers for it and have no problems with it closing. find a cheap electrician's tool (crimper,cutter,stripper etc.) and use the stripper section to cut the sprue. works very well

 

[BrianL]

Yep, Lyman :thumbsup: Love mine in .570

 

[Matt85]

almost landed a used Lyman .570 off of ebay for a decent price but someone wanted it more then me.

will be making my J. Tanner order on thursday (when i get paid).

-matt