M.A.P.

Stumyp!?? Whewwwww. That were a mouth full of information and as with ALL information it's useful. The only problem is figuring out what the use IS . :haha:
In any event it's all good info.
I have no idea where that M.A.P. formula came from, but I've heard it grew from someone using the stuff at Friendship years ago.
There are literally hundreds if not thousands of black powder solvent formulas that will work well.
Some like diluted Simple Green and water amongst many others. I use the M.A.P. because ......well it's good, ANd controversial. I love controversy. It stimulates thought and discussion, which is why we are all here.
In 3 years I've NEVER had a rust problem, BUT I make darned sure I get all the solvent out of the barrel and that's what the 91% alcohol is good at. I dry patch the bore, then oil, then check the thing. It would not matter what solvent was used, if the bore isn't dry then oiled it's gonna RUST. I like the M.A.P., and will give M.A.W. a try. Let me know what formula you settle on and I'll try that too.
I used to use HWAEG for years and never had a problem with that either. The bottom line was to get the cleaning agent out, dry the bore then oil, then check it.
As an aside I once shot several 3 pyro-pellet loads out of my T/C Black Diamond and the breech plug seized solid. I soaked the barrel full of WD-40 letting the solvent oil settle into the breech threads to loosen it. I put the thing in the garage and promptly forgot about it...for TEN days! Lo and behold, the breech plug came loose easily and there was vertually NO corrosion at all. I simply wipe the fouling out and put it away. No water, no M.A.P., no powder solvent at all.
Go figure.

 

[Rebel]

good use for WD-40 huh. The stuff works wonders i tell ya. If'n ya ever have a watch that is loosin' time just pull the back off and spray some WD-40 in the innards. I tell ya, that watch will run double time for a while, ta make up fer all that lost time. Course then it just sorta quits runnin', but what the heck. I know this fer a fact cause i tried it on my wifes good watch. She weren't thrilt at all. :redface:

 

I also use WD40 or Amsoil MP (Metal Protector) as a water displacer after cleaning & dry patching, to lift and flush all the remaining oil from the breech & barrel, prior to storing. These light, penetrating oils insinuate themselves between any water and the steel, lifting it so the patch can get it all. When the barel is dry again, I re-oil with WD40 or etc,.m than store the rifle, butt down. I don't use any other oil after than & do not have rust in my barrels.

 

Well, you can buy Castor oil by the gallon at McMasters
for $22.69 Phone # 330-995-5500

 

[scatteringlead]

You guys ready for some real sacrilege, after flushing out the barrel with dish detergent and hot water, I take an aresol can of (here it comes) BRAKE CLEANING FLUID spray the fluid in the touchhole and run clean patches down barrel, the brake cleaner drys fast, and then follow with WD-40. The barrel is always clean and shiny. I put a small ball bearing in the barrel and shin a pen light down the barrel, it alwats looks brand new. So far this is the fastest and best way I have found to clean a barrel.

 

You guys ready for some real sacrilege, after flushing out the barrel with dish detergent and hot water, I take an aresol can of (here it comes) BRAKE CLEANING FLUID spray the fluid in the touchhole and run clean patches down barrel, the brake cleaner drys fast, and then follow with WD-40. The barrel is always clean and shiny. I put a small ball bearing in the barrel and shin a pen light down the barrel, it alwats looks brand new. So far this is the fastest and best way I have found to clean a barrel.

I've been using break cleaning fluid for a long time to flush oil from the bore prior to shooting. Works great!

 

[2172]

A couple of years ago, one of these boards had a warning about the M.A.P. mix being unstable...I don't recall the details, but the anecdote was scary enough to make me pour my 5 year old batch down the drain....anyone remember that scare...I never had a problem myself, but I don't use the stuff...the best results I've ever had have been with Lyman's new product....Hank

 

[musketman]

A couple of years ago, one of these boards had a warning about the M.A.P. mix being unstable...

M.A.P.(Murphy's, alcohol, and peroxide)

For the record, alcohol, and peroxides are used in rocket fuels, this could be where the un-stable notion originated...

 

[Zonie]

I have seen comments about the alcohol ane hydrogen peroxide Rocket Fuel concern but when used in rocket fuel, their using stuff on the order of 98% pure hydrogen peroxide.
The 7% stuff you get at the drug store is 93% water. Kinda like comparing 198 proof Vodka and beer!

 

[Deadeye]

That's what's so great about blackpowder, it's so user friendly, it'll disolve in just plain water,
or it will disolve in just about any concoction you can think of as long as it's wet.
The h2o2 that you get at the drugstore is 10 volume and 3%
I've seen 130 volume, not sure of the percentage but it would blister your skin.

 

[musketman]

What about H3O? :winking:

 

[Stumpkiller]

H3O+ is too acidic. It'll eat the barrel up. (Not to be confused with D2O - Deuterium dioxide (Heavy Water)). That's what you lube with when shooting depleted Uranium balls. ::