MAG-SPARK™

[SDSmlf]

I use two them on the range/plinking, both in CVA's. Sadly, you can buy 1000 209 primers and a mag spark adapter for less than the cost of 1000 #11's, if and when you can find them...

I have spent less than $0.06 per percussion cap delivered to my door or purchased locally since 2022, and significant less before that. Find that 209 primers, which I also use for other pastimes, are pricier. And yes, I am stocked up on 209s and even have some older CCI 109s on the shelf.

 

[ETipp]

We all bought a mag spark or something similar back in the 70s, it looked the same as the one pictured above. We all quickly abandoned it.

Here is what I found back in the day; perhaps they are better now. First off, they work, no cap popping even on rainy days. These are a one-shot deal, when I used one the 209 primer would expand in the cup when you shot and was very difficult to get out, it took a thin blade sharp knife to pry the spent primer out, even then it took a while to get it to turn loose. For me the overall time between shots would be a couple of minutes after you loaded the rifle just replacing the 209 primer. Handling the firing assembly with cold fingers was problematical as well.

Perhaps they have made improvements since the 70s, if not, I wouldn't buy one.

That’s the other thing I found about the Mag Spark and forgotten about. I too, had issues trying to get the spent 209 out. I’m go to keep the Mag Spark on the wife’s Hawken but only for if I know I’ll be hunting in the rain. I just hope a quick follow up shot would not be required.

 

[Hatchet Jack]

There is a sidelock shooter on Modern Muzzleloader who uses The Mag Spark. He has a technique to keep the 209 primers from sticking after they are fired. He rolls the primer around in his mouth before inserting it. He also spits inside the cap before screwing it on.
He and others have said it works like a charm. No more stuck primers.

 

[John Stark]

Certain brands of primers worse. Instructions mention which ones; I can't remember. I was thinking of making a little parrot beak removal plier to grip the rim.

Mine just came in today. It says Winchester primers are known to stick so use Remington, Federal, or CCI. I have 1K Clerinox 209s (which are some hot primers) and they are extremely tight, I have to pry them out without even firing it. I have 100 Rem. and they fit perfectly. I "may" hone it out a little so the Clerinox fit properly.

 

[BeardedGunsmith]

I'm making my own priming compound but don't want to use the garbage caps that you can punch out of soda cans so I'm making a die that will form nice caps from aluminum flashing. I'm big on form and function.

 

[SDSmlf]

I'm making my own priming compound but don't want to use the garbage caps that you can punch out of soda cans so I'm making a die that will form nice caps from aluminum flashing. I'm big on form and function.

Aluminum flashing might be a bit thicker than required and not always that ductile. If you wanted to go first class consider setting things up around soft brass.

 

[BeardedGunsmith]

What I'm calling flashing is sheeting I can get fairly cheaply that's .006 thick. Brass would work as well but it's more money. I just want percussion caps lol.

 

[SDSmlf]

What I'm calling flashing is sheeting I can get fairly cheaply that's .006 thick. Brass would work as well but it's more money. I just want percussion caps lol.

You may want to remeasure your aluminum flashing. Recently checked a couple of painted and mill finish aluminum flashing products for a project and none were under .020” thick. But if you found .006” thick aluminum ‘flashing’ and it works for you, great. Can’t argue with success.

 

[Buckskinquin]

Due to #11s being harder to find than an honest politician with a pocket full of hen's teeth, riding a unicorn around here, I just ordered a 209 6X1 adapter nipple for the Hawken. When it arrives, I'll be set for #11 which I have 0 of at this time, musket caps which I have about 1K of, and 209 primers which I also have about 1K of and are much easier to obtain around here. I also bought 2 prime-all kits and the #11 cap punch tool which I'm waiting to be delivered.
My goal is to have the Hawken setup so it'll be able to use any common ignition source including unmentionable rifle primers (talking to a machinist buddy on this one). The reasoning is that while I don't mind and actually enjoy sourcing and making my own components, I want to make it simple for whichever grandkid ends up with it so they'll actually shoot it. Hopefully after they shoot it a bit, they'll end up like I did wanting to do most everything their self. Another plus of this adapter is that rain has a far lesser chance of getting to the powder.
I personally will continue to use (and make my own soon) the traditional caps the rifle was designed for but there will be "options" if ever needed.

Just went on Midway USA, 209 primers out of stock most brands and they’re getting as expensive as #11 when you find them. Glad I stocked up when I recognized the coming shortage. I’d buy one to hunt with, but not to use in BP Rendevous or compition.

 

[Tim_IA]

Try this link Buckskinquin https://ammoseek.com/reloading/primers?ikw=209

 

[Stephen_D]

... 209 6X1 adapter nipple ...

I don't think of the Mag Spark as a replacement. I think of it as having options.

I make my own percussion caps with soda cans and H-48 priming compound, which are very good for single shot and double barrel muzzleloaders. I haven't used my homemade yet for C&B revolvers.