Making a patch knife?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Thanks guys, I plan on experimenting on the off fall. I've read differing opinions about the method of annealing HSS.

French Colonial, Would you heat it laying on the sink?
I would not. You can clamp the blade portion in a vise and the vise becomes your heat sink. If you can give the handle end some support or bracing, you can drill it at red hot.
 
As a last resort, you might consider a hidden tang grip. Then you can just epoxy it in a hole or slot in the grip. No drilling.
 
As a last resort, you might consider a hidden tang grip. Then you can just epoxy it in a hole or slot in the grip. No drilling.

That's a good idea, I can cut a slot in the blank handle.

I tried several bits and it hasn't been too long ago that I sharpened them.
 
Solid carbide bit. If you got it red hot you should be fine. I think that if you try to drill a red hot piece of metal you will just take the temper out of your drill bit.
 
That's a good idea, I can cut a slot in the blank handle.

I tried several bits and it hasn't been too long ago that I sharpened them.
I mean a slotted blind hole, not a full slot. A blind hole would be the easiest, but either way it will work. Grind out a suitable tang with a bit of taper in its profile, then if you have a Dremel tool or something like it, cut a few little notches on the top and bottom of the tang so the epoxy will have something to lock well onto.
 
Success!!!!! No heating or grinding involved.
IMG_5449.jpg
 
I clamped it down on the drill press backed with a piece of 1/4" plate. The bit has a carbide tip and is listed as a multi material bit. I ran it fast, light pressure with cutting fluid. There may be two holes left in it. At $6 it was way cheaper than fluted carbide bits.

IMG_5450.jpg
 
Yes sir. I had a bucket of water sitting beside the grinder. I would grind, dip, rinse and repeat. There is no blue or signs or overheat on it. The next problem is going to be drilling the holes for the brads in the handles, but I'm working on that.
I tried a test hole in the off fall and I don't have anything that will touch it, time for some research.
Forget the HSS hacksaw blades.. Find CS65 or 70 strip from a model engineers shop (USED FOR MAKING MODEL TRAIN OR CAR SPRINGS) and can be worked with files.. This steel will hold an edge and not chip if you harden and temper to the spec.. It's easier to work and drill as well before hardening..(GOOD FOR REFACING HAMMERS)..
As for annealing. Heat to hardening temp.Don't quench,bury in fine sand or lime (powder) to cool stops it Scaling (oxidising),by excluding air and slows the cooling.. Tempering. Polish blade and degrease. Heat with a blowtorch to EVEN BLUE. Don't rely on 1st Blue, Repolish, reheat while still hot & and quench in Transmission oil. (FOR HAMMER FACES-TEMPER TO PALE STRAW COLOUR)..Transmission oil is said to be the nearest fuid to trad.. Whale Oil.. OLD DOG, &5 years in small part engineering.
 
Last edited:
I see 2 options:
Go to your local salvation Army store and look through their old silverware/ flatware section, OR go to Etsy and search for 1095 steel in the sizes you want, (i.e.) 1/8" thk, 1/16" thk. 3/16" thk etc. I buy small pieces (quantities) there. Normally I buy 8' long sections, but small usable pieces can be had there too.
I hope this helps?
God bless:
Two Feathers
 
You can anneal the handle without softening the blade, use a heat sink.
Then you should be able to drill the holes in the handle.
You want to anneal a blade? Heat it bright Red, then bury it in a bucket of wood ash or sand until it's cold! You'll be able to drive a nail through it, it'll be so soft? :thumb:;)
Two Feathers
 
the scales are great looking, striped. came off a nice piece of wood.
 
Back
Top