Making a Portable Casting Kit

[LeMat1856]

.
. sep 24 / 2:15am


don't know if this has been discussed before and need some experienced opinions:

i live in a small, single room, studio apartment in a really old building.. the ventilation is rather poor (only two small windows with little crosswind), and i'm afraid plugging in a production melting pot for lead would blow the fuse for possibly the entire floor, so...

1) can i get the required level of heat from a coleman propane stove ?

2) if so, what size (smallest) type would be best ?

3) how much gas would i need to produce 100-200 rounds at a time ?

4) anyone else ever try this ?

the reason i'm considering this is that, with a plywood sheet as the workbench, i could take off for a day in the country, enjoy the outdoors, and be at a range within minutes to use my newly minted masterpieces, and possibly even crank out a few more if i start to run low (none of the ranges here sell pure lead bp supplies on site and charge me an "in / out" fee if i leave.

thanks for any suggestions,

~d~

 

[BrownBear]

I've used Coleman stoves with cast iron pots when salvaging large quantities of lead or casting large (1-2 pounds each) fishing sinkers.


The heat generated by one of the single burner models would be sufficient I'm sure, but I wouldn't use one unless it was the low, flat variety with the propane bottle to the side rather than under the burner. It would be just too unstable for my tastes to have the molten lead on top of a tall rig. Heck, I've knocked over the tall singles when boiling water. The two burner rigs would be just fine, but more bulky than the flat singles. Don't know the model names and numbers, but you should be able to figger it out from my description.

You'd get a lot of lead bullets out of a single 1-pound bottle of propane, that's for sure. The one thing I'd recommend you buy is a lead thermometer. The stoves generate lots of heat, so much that you're going to want to manage temps if you're casting conicals.

I like your idea of doing this in the hills, provided you shield the molten lead from all sources of moisture to avoid dangerous steam explosions. This includes largish flying insects such as moths.

 

[R.M.]

The Lee 10lb pot is only 500 watts, so power draw is much less than your typical hair dryer. I would think using an electric pot would be safer to use than anything with an open flame.

 

[Pork Chop]

My suggestion for a Coleman stove is to get one that burns white gas (Coleman Fuel) rather than propane. They tend to be more fuel efficient - ie. longer burn time per tank of fuel.

 

[LeMat1856]

.
. sep 25 / 3:00AM


great suggestions !!

at least you all seem to think that it could work and even with "white gas" instead of more expensive propane.

and "no", r.m., i wasn't aware that these only draw that little current.. that would lower the possibility of blowing a fuse but i'd still be left with poor air circulation.

now all i need is a thermometer, ladel, gloves, raw lead, 4 molds (1 for each caliber i use), plus a few more odds and ends, and i'm in business !!

thanks fer your input,
~d~

 

[BrownBear]

You should be aware that the newer liquid fuel stoves (the ones with the gray tanks rather than red) run on either white gas or plain old unleaded gasoline. In your apartment situation using unleaded frees you of the need to store excess white gas: When you're through, just pour the excess into your car and get another gallon next time you cast.

I've both gasoline and propane models and find the propane version a lot more versatile and easy to use. With the short period you'll be using the stove just for lead smelting, the cost difference won't be measurable, I think. The leftover propane bottle is safe to store, and the stove with propane might even be useful if there's ever a winter power outage in your neighborhood. Tradeoffs, but not a clear winner with either choice.

 

[R.M.]

.
. sep 25 / 3:00AM


and "no", r.m., i wasn't aware that these only draw that little current.. that would lower the possibility of blowing a fuse but i'd still be left with poor air circulation.

~d~

I'd think that you'll have less air quality issues using electric over something with an open flame, especially with CO concerns. The Colman stove is a good way to start also.

 

[buford87]

IMHO the air quality problem would only be trouble melting lead with anything inside your apartment. Go with your plan to run balls in the great outdoors and enjoy yourself..........watch yer top knot

 

[R.M.]

You know, I should learn to read all of the post better. I had it in my head that the Coleman stove was going to be used indoors. Now that I've gone back and re-read the original post, it makes much more sense.
I have heard that the white gas versions give out more heat, but like I said, it's just what I've heard.

 

[mazo kid]

A Coleman stove of either variety will work just fine. Heck, I've cast many round balls over just camp fire coals, ladling the molten lead into the molds.

 

[LeMat1856]

.
. oct 1 / 11:15pm


this is great !!

sorry for the delay in getting back to this topic.. i'm working on about 3 projects at once.

at least i now have a "proof of concept" from all these suggestions and can start working on collecting all the necessary gear that goes with casting..

i'm wondering about just one more aspect to this: one source says get the size you need (a .454 cast for .454 round ball, a .577 for .577 conicals, etc.) while my other source says get a size larger (.457 for .454 rounds and .579 for .577 conicals) because they shrink .002" while cooling..

which is actually more accurate ?

many thanks for all your assistance.. i'm on a limited budget and can't afford to experiment through trial and error (ain't we all !!).

~d~

 

[BrownBear]

I question the authority talking about shrinkage of pure lead, as used in muzzleloaders. It's true for alloys used in casting bullets for cartridge guns, but pure lead? Nah. Write that authority off your list.

Here's a practical outlook: If you buy oversize and it doesn't shrink, you're scrooed. If you buy the standard size and it DOES shrink, just use a thicker patch on your round balls. I'm sure you won't see any shrinking.

Besides, most muzzleloaders I've shot do lots better with a thicker patch of around .015 or .018 (and thicker) than they do with .010. And the material for .010 patching takes some looking if you want to cut your own and save buxx. But if you need .018, just go to Walmart or Joann's and buy a yard of pillow ticking for less than $5. It will make hundreds of patches, something like 500, for less than you'll spend on a pack of 100 commercially made patches.

I'd review anything else said by your shrinking authority, while you're at it.

 

[R.M.]

The molds are compensated to drop bullets/balls to what they're advertised, supposedly.

 

[necchi]

my other source says get a size larger (.457 for .454 rounds and .579 for .577 conicals) because they shrink .002" while cooling..

Poo! My 535 cast's 535, 530=530, 490=490. I have used a mic to check. If they didn't, I'd be wanting my money back!!
p.s. I use pure lead

 

[LeMat1856]

.
. oct 3 / 7:15am


well, that's settled.

again, many thanks to everyone and now i'm off to start putting this kit together.. i'm getting tired of having to search here and there for the best deal on ready-made and then having to add another $10+ just for shipping.. if my calculations are close to accurate, i should be able to get my investment back in the first year alone.

now, if only i had the magic formula for premium quality FF and FFF...

~d~

 

[sutherland]

For your health's sake, please don't melt lead indoors. You'll get lead poisoning. Cast only with adequate ventilation. Adequate ventilation means outdoor conditions with at least a slight breeze. Be safe and smart.

 

[R.M.]

At normal casting temps, there is no lead fumes. Other impurities in the melt can create a stink, but lead has to get extremely hot before it starts to vaporize. Besides, SWMBO might have something to say about it. :shocked2:
The recommendation for ventilation is a good one. The other vapors can't be good for you.

 

[uncrichie]

Just a safety reminder. Put a lip on the edge of the sheet of plywood. Especially the front edge if not all the way around. Its not a question of if you are going to spill molten lead its when you do you won't want it flowing into your lap or the floor. A 1"x2" firing strip is fine.

 

[LeMat1856]

.
. oct 17 / 2:00pm


good suggestion and good thinking.. that will set the project back a few weeks while i redesign the portable "workspace" but it's always better to be safer than sorry.

one other twist.. while on cabelas looking for a good burner, i came accross something called a "power inverter." they are available in units up to 1500 watts and work off of the car's battery.. it r.m.'s statement is true (...using less then 500 watts), i might be able to get one of these and plug in a lee production pot which would be lots more user friendly, though not necessarily less expensive.

personally, i still like the idea of a white gas/coleman fuel burner, but cabela's only have 1 and it uses the traditional propane tank.. any thoughts regarding the "cobra power inverter 800 watt" unit priced around $60.

~d~

 

[BrownBear]

Plan on leaving your car running the whole time, if in fact it will pull the load of the furnace. That thing will suck the battery dry in one big hurry.... Long before you get through a casting session, I'm sure.