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making my own patching

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jaf

32 Cal.
Joined
Jan 22, 2008
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gun- Investarm .50 cal Hawken
ammo- .490 roundball

Looked at previous posts- here's what I've gleaned-
.015-.018 pillow/mattress ticking from world-mart. Ok. Don't have a micrometer so will wash/dry and hope for the best. My understanding is that I can cut the fabric into squares for shooting patches. Planning to use crisco as a patch lube.

Here's the question: What size should the squares be?

Thanks in advance...
 
I would start with about 1&1/4" squares. Myself, I cut the ticking into strips 1&1/4 wide and 12" long. I then cut at the muzzle when loading at the range. You should get yourself a mic to check the thickness. A couple of thousands thinner or thicker can make a big difference in how well a rifle groups. Leon
 
For my .54, I cut my patches 1.5". While your at Wally World, pick up one of the round blade fabric cutters, they work great with a straight edge. You'll have a couple hundred patches in just a few minutes. The edges of the pillow ticking are thicker so I cut them off first. From what I have seen the red stripe ticking has been .015" while the blue stripe is .018".
 
I don't know about squares; I use circle shape. I use a fifty cent piece to trace around on the cloth. Kind of pain cutting in circles, though. I might try squares some day, but I got motivated and cut a bunch one day watching football on TV.
 
I have seen tests, which concluded that square or round patches made no difference!

I did not do the tests, so don't hit me over the head if you do not agree with my statement :grin:
 
You know I love this site. I have not visited in a month, but when I return the topics are always relavant.

Last night I was cutting a measuring the Wal-Mart Pillow Ticking for my 4-H muzzleloading club. I debated over square v. round and went with square. I have not seen a difference, although I think the best way is to cut off the patch once its seated, like from a long strip. My only hesitation for that is putting sharp knives into the hands of kids - we'll see.

Patch thickness - using the red/white material, I cut 2 stacks of 10 patches, approx. 1 1/4" square for .50 or .54 caliber, stacked them up neatly and measured them with a digital micrometer, divided the number by 10 and the average thickness was .016 to .017. I really like that thickness because it gives me a good, snug fit. To lub the patches I melted about 1/8 cup of the yellow natural lube, poured it hot over the patches in a tin, and poured off the excess - all for less than a buck!

gus
 
Don't have a micrometer so will wash/dry and hope for the best.

Do yourself a huge favor & run down to your nearest Harbour Freight Tools & pick up a set of vernier calipers.....they have both digital & dial types, often for as low as $15. I have an 8" dial caliper for my workbench & carry a 6" version in my shooting bag. They're a great investment & I wouldn't be without one!
 
I haven't seen it affect accuracy, but I've backed off when they start getting as big as a typical cleaning patch. If you're using a combo jag/seater like some of us, there comes a point that the jag is going to start grabbing the excess patching above the ball when you withdraw the rod. I haven't seen it with conventional seating tips on ramrods, but who knows.

Whether or not it means anything, when I'm using a short starter and cutting at the muzzle, the top of the ball is maybe a quarter of an inch below the muzzle and the patch is cut right at the muzzle. Call it mind warp, but any time precuts stick up much more than that after a whack with the short starter, the patches "feel" too big in my warped mind. Haven't put a ruler on the patches- recovered bore cut, or precuts- but I'm guessing something like 3x or 3.5x ball diameter is going to be pretty darn close to enough. At least for my warped brain.
 
Just curious if anyone besides me has used empty lead shot bags for patches ? The ones that I use are Eagle Shot. They mic. at 0.42 mm somewhere between .015 and .018 I guess.
 
Canvas bags are generally too coarse a weave to make a good patch. Remember you are trying to SEAL gases behind that patch. Bumps in the thread surface, and variations in the thickness of the thread in the fabric are all working against you as a seal. Use a good tight weave pocket drill, muslin, or strong cotton fabric, and forget the canvas bags.
 
Many believe the patch cut at the muzzle leads to better accuracy. I do and nearly always cut from my pre-lubed patch strip. If you recover a patch cut that way it is neither round nor square. I like a bit of harder lube in a sardine can to thumb a dry strip over to lubricate it. I often pre-lube several strips and warm them in the microwave till they carry enough lube to suit me and keep folded in a little tin. The ball only need be seated below flush at the muzzle before cutting the patch with a normal crown present. Good shooting! Wonky
 
thanks to everyone who responded. and I'll be going to harbor freight for that micrometer.
 
Do like Arquebus said and get a Vernier caliper. And get the dial type. The digital caliper I got went haywire. The dial type is as easy to read and less likely to get out of order. But either is quicker to read than a mike.
 

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