Maple finish

[Mike in FL]

mike, do not use the AF in your barrel channel, or in the mortises. unless you really work at neutralizing it, it will cause aggressive rusting to your metal parts.
after you do the AF and blush it you can "knock it back with some of that 400 grit. the AF really accentuates the curl, (end grain) .
i use a minwax stain called colonial maple, and one called early American.

Good to know!

 

[wiscoaster]

....

Betting this post will generate some discussion.

Sounds exactly like the same process I'd follow.

 

[Nav]

Aqua fortis is acidic, cuz it’s iron dissolved in acid. Iron Nitrate does the exact same thing without the acid. You can buy lab grade Iron Nitrate on Bezos‘ Chinesearium for pretty cheap, and it’s Ph neutral so it doesn’t matter if it goes in the barrel channel.

No stain is going to make the stock lighter. I put a super diluted tanic acid on my first one, and it came out dark as hell. I would finish it just as you have it with the rubbed back AF. Being a noob, like me, I wouldn’t experiment. Do what you know looks good.

I did varnish my SMR with high gloss Man-O-War. I’m very happy with the deep gloss finish of multiple coats. It may not go on a poor-man’s SMR, but the curl in the maple demanded something more.

 

[Kmcmichael]

Jim Chambers for me.

 

[ColonialRifleSmith]

I like Laurel mountain forge wood stains.

https://www.laurelmountainforge.com/stain_colors v4.htm

I too like LMF Stains. However, at $20.00+ and counting for 4oz. I have look for something else. Semper Fi.

 

[olskool]

i have used commercial AF several times and have never been happy either. i am starting to do my 3rd Kibler SMR, the last one i did not use AF, it is not the best wood Jim has, i used LMF nut brown then chambers oil on top. this is it. the next one is extra fancy and i will use ferric nitrate powder. same as AF but is better. i contacted a top builder on this forum, he is a good man that has helped me before and he told me his prosses and what he does. i will use his procedure on my next one. i don't think he would mind if i shared it. if you interested PM me i will send you what he said,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

 

[Billy Boy]

Thank you. I'm just scared of using the wrong thing. I've already ordered the aqafortis, but now I'm not sure. Can you thin it to make it less aggressive? This is my first build and I would hate to screw it up.After searching all the threads here I'm thinking one application of aquafortis then a clear sealer. I haven't rushed anything thus far, but now I'm sort of stuck. Thanks for all the suggestions. You guys have answered every qquestion. I'm 76 and thinking this will be my last ML. L

Aquafortis’s aggression can be regulated by how much heat you apply and how soon in the process. Light wetting, let it dry, hold it over a stationary and constant heat source, keep a close watch on it for the darkness you want. It lightens up with rubbing and finish.

 

[Mike in FL]

i have used commercial AF several times and have never been happy either. i am starting to do my 3rd Kibler SMR, the last one i did not use AF, it is not the best wood Jim has, i used LMF nut brown then chambers oil on top. this is it. the next one is extra fancy and i will use ferric nitrate powder. same as AF but is better. i contacted a top builder on this forum, he is a good man that has helped me before and he told me his prosses and what he does. i will use his procedure on my next one. i don't think he would mind if i shared it. if you interested PM me i will send you what he said,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,View attachment 255829View attachment 255830View attachment 255831

That's what I'm looking for.

 

[Mike in FL]

How long after applying the AF should I wait to use the baking soda/water solution? Does the AF dry quickly? Hate to be a pest but this is a new endeavor for me. I've made a few mistakes in putting the rifle together but nothing I wasn't able to fix. It really has been a learning experience and prepared me Gor the next one, a thing I thought I wouldn't do, due to being old, but now I'm thinking why waste all this newfound knowledge.

 

[Capt. Jas.]

How long after applying the AF should I wait to use the baking soda/water solution? Does the AF dry quickly? Hate to be a pest but this is a new endeavor for me. I've made a few mistakes in putting the rifle together but nothing I wasn't able to fix. It really has been a learning experience and prepared me Gor the next one, a thing I thought I wouldn't do, due to being old, but now I'm thinking why waste all this newfound knowledge.

I would recommend you Google some of Jim Kibler's videos of using iron nitrate and stock staining. This will give you instruction from a master and you will see the results on screen. There is a lot of voodoo to coloring and finishing wood but you are getting some information on this thread that is flat out incorrect.

 

[MSW]

Do some test pieces. The aquafortis will look darker when the finish coat is applied. If you didn't request any test pieces with your kit do some patches in the barrel channel. On some pieces of wood the aquafortis can be dark, maybe darker than you want.

by way of 'heads up - i tried this and when i put the barrel in the channel to get all the other parts organized, there was flash rust where the aqua fortis had been. I you fo use this trick, you may want to consider sanding away the stained area before you install the barrel on a permanent basis.

 

[CuNosecap]

Aquafortis’s aggression can be regulated by how much heat you apply and how soon in the process. Light wetting, let it dry, hold it over a stationary and constant heat source, keep a close watch on it for the darkness you want. It lightens up with rubbing and finish.

Heat gun is way better. I used to do it over electric range, Difficult to get even heat. With heat gun constantly moving, it is way more controllable. And you can see it happen.
I can't imagine doing it with a hot iron bar as described way back when.

 

[TDM]

Heat gun is way better. I used to do it over electric range, Difficult to get even heat. With heat gun constantly moving, it is way more controllable. And you can see it happen.
I can't imagine doing it with a hot iron bar as described way back when.

Agree, a heat gun is the way to go, that’s what I use. HF has them cheap and mine has worked great for several years.

 

[akroguy]

Straight AF can really darken the wood, especially the open grained areas on a standard grade stock. So, dauber it on, allow to dry, heat blush then sand or scotchbrite back spending extra time on the above mentioned areas or they'll get really dark when oiled. I like LMF cherry stain added to Tried and True varnish oil to get a reddish luster. My avatar pic was done this way and it is a standard grade maple stock Kibler Colonial.

 

[TDM]

Agree @akroguy and going back over it with scotchbrite is essential.

 

[CuNosecap]

Agree. I have only recently stepped in to the 21st century and started using Scotchbrite. Even on my most recent build, I tend to gravitate towards Sandpaper then very fine or 0000 steel wool (only AFTER AF, avoiding freckles).
I now have a near full compliment of SB grades. And yes it is nice that it is color coded. I still use 120-220 grit SP than have switched to grey then white SB. But I find that real steel wool is best as it conforms to irregular surfaces a little better, as in complex carvings behind cheekpiece etc.

 

[reddogge]

Perhaps to calm you down let it be known that nothing you do cannot be undone. Therefore, you can't ruin your stock. If you don't like it, sand or scrape it down and start over. I've done it.

 

[CuNosecap]

Perhaps to calm you down let it be known that nothing you do cannot be undone. Therefore, you can't ruin your stock. If you don't like it, sand or scrape it down and start over. I've done it.

This is generally true. You can easily alter or modify by sanding virtually any part of a finish…Except oils And waxes. Yes they can be altered too but it is much harder.
I encourage the OP to try whatever he thinks may work for him. Sand it back, modify it. Then when finally happy, place top coat.

 

[TDM]

Yep, you can mostly undo anything you put on the wood, or at least modify it to make it lighter or darker. Once you realize that it takes the pressure off.

 

[Indy Durtdigger]

by way of 'heads up - i tried this and when i put the barrel in the channel to get all the other parts organized, there was flash rust where the aqua fortis had been. I you fo use this trick, you may want to consider sanding away the stained area before you install the barrel on a permanent basis.

If AF is put in or accidentally gotten into any areas it will contact metal it must be neutralized or it will cause problems. Just sanding it may not remove all the contaminated material.