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Marvel Mystery Oil
- Thread starter jbtusa
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Not for a patch lube but I've been using it in a cleaning solution for years
I disassemble my handguns after each range session, soak and scrub 'em with and old tooth brush and reassemble them. Acts as a solvent and a lube. Doing it for many years and my handguns, even those 25 years old, look like new.
Mixed in a 5 gallon plastic bucket:
1/2 gallon Kerosene
1/2 gallon Mineral Spirits
1 quart Automatic Transmision Fluid
1 quart Rislone
1 pint Marvel's Mystery Oil
I disassemble my handguns after each range session, soak and scrub 'em with and old tooth brush and reassemble them. Acts as a solvent and a lube. Doing it for many years and my handguns, even those 25 years old, look like new.
Mixed in a 5 gallon plastic bucket:
1/2 gallon Kerosene
1/2 gallon Mineral Spirits
1 quart Automatic Transmision Fluid
1 quart Rislone
1 pint Marvel's Mystery Oil
That sounds like something that would be used with smokeless powder.
I don't see anything there that will dissolve black powder residue.
I don't see anything there that will dissolve black powder residue.
I use a formula similar to Finnwolf's for general gunsmithing work on modern guns. I can't see how Mystery Oil would have anything to offer muzzleloading though, other than as perhaps a lock and trigger lubricant. It's a petroleum product and that's not something you'd want to use as a patch lube. It's not a great long term rust protectant either, at least not compared the products specially made for that purpose like CorrosionX.
Tom Compton
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Works great on my 1956 Victoria and son's 1955 Bel Air . . . . . but where does the patch go?
smokehouseman
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As an experiment in one of my guns I've used it mixed with beeswax as a patch lube and also as a protective oil in my guns. I didn't find a thing wrong with it contrary to the popular belief that petroleum based products are the devils brew. I honestly don't see any difference and if it works in my experiment gun by hitting what I aim at what else can I ask for???
arcticap
54 Cal.
Why it works must be the mystery! :haha:
paulvallandigham
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Who told you that Beeswax is a " Petroleum Based Product"???? Sorry, it isn't. Its about as natural a product as you can find, other than honey.
Mixing Beeswax with vegetable oils makes a good patch lube. This includes the common vegetable oils used to cook, corn oil, olive oil, coconut oil, linseed oil, cottonseed oil, etc.
Mineral oil, the basis for " Ballistol", is a highly processed by-product of petroleum production, and, technically, is also a Petroleum based Oil. However, probably because its so highly processed, it does not require such a high flash point to burn, compared to petroleum oils, nor does it leave behind the tars and gummy residues that regular petroleum oils will when fired in a MLer. :hmm: :thumbsup:
P.S. Now, paraffin wax is a different animal than Beeswax. It is a petroleum product, and makes for a " smokey candle". When mixed with vegetable oils, it does not make as good as lube as will beeswax. Its too brittle in its grain structure.
Mixing Beeswax with vegetable oils makes a good patch lube. This includes the common vegetable oils used to cook, corn oil, olive oil, coconut oil, linseed oil, cottonseed oil, etc.
Mineral oil, the basis for " Ballistol", is a highly processed by-product of petroleum production, and, technically, is also a Petroleum based Oil. However, probably because its so highly processed, it does not require such a high flash point to burn, compared to petroleum oils, nor does it leave behind the tars and gummy residues that regular petroleum oils will when fired in a MLer. :hmm: :thumbsup:
P.S. Now, paraffin wax is a different animal than Beeswax. It is a petroleum product, and makes for a " smokey candle". When mixed with vegetable oils, it does not make as good as lube as will beeswax. Its too brittle in its grain structure.
Long ago a professional antique furniture restorer told me a "trade secret". That is to use transmission fluid or Marvel Mystery Oil and rub it into the wood.
I've been rubbing Marvel Mystery Oil into my gun stocks for years. Works better than boiled linseed oil for me.
I don't use it for patch lube or on the metal at all.
I've been rubbing Marvel Mystery Oil into my gun stocks for years. Works better than boiled linseed oil for me.
I don't use it for patch lube or on the metal at all.
Thanks for all the tips. Does anyone see any problems with using Mystery Oil to coat the bore after cleaning? ...Followed by swabbing with a dry patch before shooting? I am actually looking for a cheap source of cleaning oil since oil at the gunshops has gotten so expensive!
You can't get a blackpowder cleaning solution any cheaper than water, or one that works any better. Water works great. Add a little dish soap if you want. Afterwards dry the bore and then swab with an oily patch. Good old WD40 works fine for that.
If you can come up with something cheaper I'de like to know about it.
edited to add: Always swab the bore with a dry patch before loading that first shot. Snap a cap or two to make sure the nipple is clear, or pick the touch hole if you're using a flintlock. Then, load and go.
If you can come up with something cheaper I'de like to know about it.
edited to add: Always swab the bore with a dry patch before loading that first shot. Snap a cap or two to make sure the nipple is clear, or pick the touch hole if you're using a flintlock. Then, load and go.
Marvel is a good oil. I get it by the gallon (and add it to the gas in my tractor which was designed for leaded gas). I've been using it as a general-purpose gun oil for years and years. Not as good as a true penetrating/"sewing machine" oil for delicate jobs or as a water displacing/coating storage oil (CLP Breakfree, B-C Baricade/Sheath) but it will serve if that's what you've got.
Stay away from petroleum derivitives for patch lubes.
Stay away from petroleum derivitives for patch lubes.
No oil is going to dissolve the corrosive salts and black powder residue. Those are water soluble, so water is the best solvent. A little dish soap in the water helps it clean out patch lube residue. Doesn't get much cheaper than that and is what most of us use.
I don't see a problem with using it in the bore as a protectant as long as you clean it out thoroughly before firing. A splash of 91% rubbing alcohol should take care of that. I have had Mystery Oil let rust start when left long term as a rust protectant though, so keep an eye on the bore if you don't get out to shoot much.
I don't see a problem with using it in the bore as a protectant as long as you clean it out thoroughly before firing. A splash of 91% rubbing alcohol should take care of that. I have had Mystery Oil let rust start when left long term as a rust protectant though, so keep an eye on the bore if you don't get out to shoot much.
hanshi
Cannon
Type "F" transmission fluid is great for metal and wood on the OUTSIDE of the gun.. Keep it out of the bore. I find it superior to just about anything else for stock or barrel. Clean the gun up first.
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