Matchlock mechanism drawings, anybody?

[CapnJack]

Thanks SgtWinterer,
I've picked up the tools again and I'm trying to turn my plastic templates into metal.
This is really turning into an experiment. I'm building everything except the barrel
out of some aluminum plate I had on hand.

 

[CapnJack]

Well, I started back at it last week and made a fair amount of progress. I've found that if I get to an impasse with making one part work, there is always something else that needs doing. Here is the progress so far. Not the prettiest thing in the world, but I hope it works. Next will be some barrel bands before the rubber bands break. Oh, I made some matches using Stump remover. They hold a nice coal.

 

[CapnJack]

Almost there...Just need some brass rod for the barrel pins. Then I'll see if it will shoot.

 

[russellshaffer]

A couple of suggestions that might be useful to you. I had a lot of trouble getting mine to fire until I heard about the trick of placing a wire through the flash hole while loading. Leave it in until you are ready to prime - it leaves a path for the plasma flash from the pan to get into the main charge. Push the wire clear across the barrel to make a long tunnel. Also, since there are many things that can go wrong why don't you fire a few blank charges to make sure everything is working right? Blanks would have saved me some trouble while I was working the bugs out. Much easier to pull a blank charge than a ball. I even had an unintentional discharge while I was fiddling with the match but the gun was pointed where it belonged and the ball actually hit the target. Wear eye protection for sure - my glasses got splattered more than once. Good luck and have fun. These things are a kick and I have a lot of respect now for the musketteers who carried them in battle.

 

[CapnJack]

Russellshafter,
Thanks for the tips.That one about the wire is interesting. I'll give 'er a try.
After I had blow back into my eye from a split rim case in an old 12ga., I'm
a believer in safety glasses.

 

[russellshaffer]

What cord are you using for your match?

 

[CapnJack]

1/4" cotton line, without a nylon core. I bought it from ACE Hardware.

 

[Pukka Bundook]

You'd be better with hemp twine, as it burns much hotter than cotton, Jack.

It comes in 100 yard rolls for a low price . I used to get rolls from Susan Wallace, at Silver Shuttle, but she no longer sells it. A mate got some down there though, after I'd sent him a sample and it's as good as I used to get.

Never needed the wire to help ignition (V Fast ignition!) Russleshafter, but if I do , I'll give it a try!
Got a barrel near made for another snap-lock. Just needs the pan and sights making. and decorative designs like the original.

Best,
Richard.

 

[CapnJack]

Those Khyber Pass gunsmiths have nothing to worry about from me.
Now I guess I'll have to see if it works.

 

[CapnJack]

Here it is and it works!!! Who says I flinched?
My first off hand, 15 yard "Group." 50gr. of FFG.
Ctr.>Ctr., about 12"
If it had been an elephant....I would have probably gotten stepped on.

Wah !!! It sure gets dirty in a hurry.

 

[Nyckname]

That one about the wire is interesting.

"Prick and prime" is a command in cannoneering for a reason.

 

[russellshaffer]

Hey, hitting the target at 15 yards offhand on your first matchlock outing is a great success in my opinion. Way better than I did. Great job.

 

[CapnJack]

Thanks Russell,
I'd be lying if I said I didn't flinch.

 

[CapnJack]

First shot off of a bench.Here is my target. The hit in the
throat was the first shot and it's on video, but the video says it's too large to load.

Only 15 yards, but still not a bad group for patched marbles
out of a smoothbore a? I was having a lot of ignition trouble
with FFG in the pan. I'm going to try some 3F, or 4F, and
see if the finer powder is more reliable.
I've watched the video several times and I still can't believe
I reached over the flash pan with my left hand to adjust the
wick. Dam! That's an accident waiting to happen if there's a
hang fire.

When I got home, I also filled the rear sight opening with
solder and re-cut a narrower slot in it to help improve the
sight picture.

Jack

 

[Rudyard]

Having made numerous Matchlocks .I would suggest that by grinding the prime into a snuff like state you will get more reliable ignition as with courser primeing you tend to get the match coal stubbing out & pushing aside the courser grains .That is until you figure its not going to go and release the hold and of course' Of it goes'. Maybe get a unplanned rabbit but not the 4" ten ring at 55 yards per International target .I cant speak for current standards but unless you where counting out 9s you where unlikely to place suffiently to win at that level . My best was only a 93 (Best ten of 13 stood.) but . you need' possibles' to be sure of placing . .The best plan is to drive a 40 cal ball flying fast as you can get so the ball is driven through the 10 ring before its realised its only a smoothbore and not supposed to shoot like a rifle . That & practice !.You are also best to have a snap matchlock the common sort are too hairy to control without your hand movements affecting the let off .It is after all a very wobbly art . Go for a card then wetted water /oil felts and a naked bore size ball as any cleaning takes up your limited 30 minets only . Bet wishes to all the 'Brotherhood of the Burning rope' Regards Rudyard

 

[CapnJack]

Rudyard...
"Brotherhood of the Burning Rope"
I love it! As a new member of the brotherhood, I welcome any critique of my methods. As for,
"Grinding the prime to a snuff like state." Never having used snuff, would that be 3F, or 4F ?
For a main charge, I'm using 50gr. of 2F and shooting a patched 80gr. 62cal. glass marble. I
know the muzzle velocity must be quite low as the balls do not cut clean holes in the target.

The piece is a winter project. My action is a basic manual pivot trigger with a return spring on
the cock. The barrel is an unfinished 20ga.from Numrich Arms. The style is my imagination and
whatever I had in the garage that would work.
Jack

 

[Rudyard]

Dear CaptnJack Snuff is like thick dust any powder will do just crush it up to powder. . My advise is after years of trying to make a matchlock talk . .Glass marble should reach high velocity but might not carry the 55 yards too well . I can see your inventive a true match lock shooter .There is a video try' British Muzzle loaders Alberta' Features Pukka and Pommy B shooting a Venietian' Mary Rose ' type snap matchlock of my make .So called because numbers of these where recovered from the wreck of her. Henry the Eights flagship sank 1545 or 46 can never remember . But that's a good design to study being a practical design.. Regards Rudyard

 

[CapnJack]

Rudyard,
Thank you for the information.
Jack

 

[Pukka Bundook]

Good morning Rudyard,

I would have sent you an "E", but work has been getting in the way. Spring always does that to me!
Got the book and Thank you! Will send funds for postage as it costs so much from there to here.
Lovely to see "Felix Werder" article!!

I for some reason never have made meal of the powder and have V fast ignition, much faster than flint. Do not know why!
With a normal tiller Or trigger type, I think you are dead right!...not easy to hold it still whilst pressing. A snap-lock goes off wonderfully fast, (They're all fast though) and it is Much easier to shoot well with one.
When I had my Indian matchlock out last, I tried it with all grades of powder in the pan, and All worked the same I thought.
I also tried my regular hemp slow-match, against the tree (horseshoe) fungus, and could see no difference. Even the 1F in the pan went off So fast you didn't see it go.
I am sure hemp or tree fungus burns hotter than cotton.
I forgot to let you try mine when you were here last, and would hav eliked your thoughts on this!

All the best,
Richard.

 

[Rudyard]

Well clearly the hemp has merit but the old sash cord and such are wont to give unwanted results or non result ,Ive shot my share of "Rabbits", once at Bisley with a 12 bore common lock I had the' no go' . I hung on then as I took it down it went & flew out behind me. But I just picked it up and proceeded to load like you would .If rather to the supprise of a By stander. . Hence my advise re snuff like prime .as it improuves your chances it will go . .The Brotherhood thing was a cup we shot for here in NZ , Pewter Mug really .But there is a decided comeradery amongst Matchlock shooters . One International aspirant I made a Mlock for was a Union Rep so I engraved underneath the barrel ".Matchlock Shooters of the World Ignite!" "You have nothing to loose but your brains"!. Paraphraseing Karl Marks, Whether he ever read it I cant say .One I made for me had " Finnest selected $5 Montana barrel Co Reject." .They used to haul a laden step van all the way to Friendship and I bought lots of barrels . inc numbers of 40cal smooth blanks. Took a gold at Bisley with one one year, allways excellent barrels . Regards Rudyard