I've heard that applying minwax to the stock of a gun will seal the wood. Would you guys recommend it? I've got a problem with stress marks and other weird things happening in the finish. I just wanted to double check before doing it.
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Minwax to Seal Stock?
- Thread starter luieb45
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NJ Longbeard
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It creates a nice finish, but not at all weather proof. I did a .50 cal renegade kit with it back in the '80s and the first bad weather hunt snow , rain took the finish right off so I sanded the stock back down and redid it with a mix of boiled linseed oil and danish oil nice finish and water proof......... Ed
Capt. Fred
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I use Johnson's paste wax. Do you mean a wax, or some other type of sealer?
Capt. Jas.
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luie b said:
What Minwax product are you talking about? I don't use any Minwax products on stocks. They use to have a wax like Bowling Alley Wax that I used on some smaller wood projects.
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can't speak to 'minwax,' but i've used bowling alley wax on non- firearm projects with good result... absent that, i like the BLO-Danish oil method.
just one guy's opinion, and worth what you're paying for it.
just one guy's opinion, and worth what you're paying for it.
BadHorse
45 Cal.
heres an idea, why not strip the stock, re-stain it with something from lmf and rub in lots of coats of truoil.luie b said:
rafterob
62 Cal.
Using a paste wax on the exterior will help seal out the elements and preserve the existing finnish. Once or twice a year take your barrel out and oil the inside of the stock to help prevent "shrinkage". Are we talking about the Traditions rifle here? I'm not sure what finnish they use, but I would certainly consider the above mentioned refinnish project for next winter. You can choose your color/shade and you will end up with an excellent, durable and easily maintained stock finnish.
Billnpatti
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I've built several guns and my personal preference is several coats of Tru-Oil or Linspeed Stock Finish. You will end up with a very shiny finish but all you have to do is to rub it with 4-0 steel wool to give it a nice soft finish. Then, I like to apply a coat of a good hard finish wax, let it dry and buff with a soft cloth. You will end up with a beautiful durable finish. Every once in a while you will need to re-apply some wax to keep it looking good and shedding water like a duck's back. :thumbsup:
Seal it with Tru-Oil or Permalyn.. then put whatever you want on it if you want something else. Both of these are waterproof..... most other finishes are not, including BLO & Tung Oil & etc. For a wax I use Howards Paste Wax in walnut color. It does a nice job, fills in some of the smaller cracks & voids & buffs out nicely to a satin sheen, yet not glossy....
:thumbsup:
Keith Lisle
:thumbsup:
Keith Lisle
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I have used Permalyn Sealer once. I am extremely impressed. It seems that it would make a nice finish as well as a sealer. I used it as as a sealer/finish, and it seems very tough, and gives a low luster look.
The finish I've finally decided on is 3 soak in/ wipe off coats of LMF sealer w/ a complete dry between coats. Then a hard rub down w/ 0000 steel wool to remove any surface sealer and to lighten high wear areas. This is followed by 2-3 very thin, hand rubbed coats of Wahkon Bay Trucoat w/ a complete dry between coats. The resultant finish is very low sheen w/ excellent water repellency and doesn't look like a built up finish....more like a BLO "look" but w/o the disadvantages of BLO.....Fred
they'er right, ya just can't say Minwax anymore;
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en...x&sa=X&ei=-KU7TKnKKI_-nAe2uMjfAw&ved=0CCcQrAM
They usta have just a few products, it was developed here in Minnesota, thus the "Min" part of the wax, the original is a linseed oil based product and that stuff is excellant for outdoor use. But now they make all kinds of stuff.
Sooo,,
Let me get this right, your wood is shrinking and you want to stop that and/or fill in some of the lost space, Right?
Several have mentioned Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil, it's about your best bet for ease of use and good results, plus it's almost everywhere, Walmart has it. Look by the gun stuff.($4-5)
Tip's; When you open the jug, just poke a nail hole in the edge of the foil seal and pour a bit out, (I make a little cup of aluminum foil) that way it won't dry out or crust over.
Use your finger tip to apply like the directions say, it has enough body to build up layers to fill things in. Light coats can be applied every few hours, heavier usually dries overnight, once a coat or two is on you'll feel how the next coat "glides" easier and flows better.
When you get 5-6 guy's mentioning the same stuff, it's usually a good bet. :wink:
They usta have just a few products, it was developed here in Minnesota, thus the "Min" part of the wax, the original is a linseed oil based product and that stuff is excellant for outdoor use. But now they make all kinds of stuff.
Sooo,,
Let me get this right, your wood is shrinking and you want to stop that and/or fill in some of the lost space, Right?
Several have mentioned Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil, it's about your best bet for ease of use and good results, plus it's almost everywhere, Walmart has it. Look by the gun stuff.($4-5)
Tip's; When you open the jug, just poke a nail hole in the edge of the foil seal and pour a bit out, (I make a little cup of aluminum foil) that way it won't dry out or crust over.
Use your finger tip to apply like the directions say, it has enough body to build up layers to fill things in. Light coats can be applied every few hours, heavier usually dries overnight, once a coat or two is on you'll feel how the next coat "glides" easier and flows better.
When you get 5-6 guy's mentioning the same stuff, it's usually a good bet. :wink:
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There is a wood sealer called "The Good Stuff" made by Bally. This is specifically formulated for sealing cutting boards, either new or used. It is costly at about 15.00 per pint can. It is rubbed on and it is gelid in consistency.
I have used it successfully on Walnut cutting boards and cocobolo kitchen knife handles. It is good on the Coco handles because Coco is resinous and will not accept other finishes. whether Coco even needs a sealer is debated, but this product cures when others wont.
Has anyone other than I heard of this product, and have you used it on gunstocks? :idunno:
I have used it successfully on Walnut cutting boards and cocobolo kitchen knife handles. It is good on the Coco handles because Coco is resinous and will not accept other finishes. whether Coco even needs a sealer is debated, but this product cures when others wont.
Has anyone other than I heard of this product, and have you used it on gunstocks? :idunno:
Rogue River
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Store your TRU-OIL bottle upside down and you won't get the crust across the top of the bottle! :grin:
ohio ramrod
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By minwax I assume you mean the furniture wax. Minwax sells a furniture wax as well as a full line of wood finishing products. Yes the wax will give a sealing effect. But for durability I prefer the carnuba wax. It is harded than minwax and more durable.Carnuba wax is used in many automotive waxes, but the pure carnuba wax needs to be bought from woodworking supply companies or a true old time hardware store.I don't have a brand name handy but if you are interested send me a p.m. and I can look up a common brand. I have some in my furniture shop but I am not in the shop now.
Shouldn't Hafta strip the whole thing, you could just go over what ya got.
With Judicial use you could just touch up, but you might find it just as easy to do the whole thing..
Test a few spots, like the ramrod channel, or underneath by the trigger guard,,
Get Bold and try a little 220 grit on a tiny spot down under on the flat of the butt stock and rub some BC Tru-oil on it and watch the sanding marks disapear. :thumbsup: go slow and take off just the shine not the color
With Judicial use you could just touch up, but you might find it just as easy to do the whole thing..
Test a few spots, like the ramrod channel, or underneath by the trigger guard,,
Get Bold and try a little 220 grit on a tiny spot down under on the flat of the butt stock and rub some BC Tru-oil on it and watch the sanding marks disapear. :thumbsup: go slow and take off just the shine not the color
Minwax has a product called Antique Oil Finish. Here's a link to it:
http://www.minwax.com/products/specialty_products/antique_oil_finish.html
This stuff is excellent for use as a finish on guns. I've used it for years and the guy that taught me to make guns has used it for as long as he's been making guns.
Az
This stuff is excellent for use as a finish on guns. I've used it for years and the guy that taught me to make guns has used it for as long as he's been making guns.
Az
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BadHorse
45 Cal.
luie b said:
just strip the stock with something like "jasco" then sand it down, give it a couple of "whisker" sandings, no big deal, then get a good alcohol based stain such as LMF, and oiler up with the truoil! its dead easy and you will so glad you did! and you get the experience from doing it your self
