Molybdenum grease bore lube?

[Half-Cocked]

I wondering if it is possible to use moly grease as a type of bore butter for patches and or more importantly to cover the ends of the cylinder on an1851 navy to avoid chain fire like they do with bore butter.

moly is a metal on metal grease and I like it’s properties. It is Firm and doesn’t melt.

 

[Many Klatch]

Making sure that you have a tight nipple to cap fit is more important in avoiding chain fire. Just remember that all that goo that you pack on top of the load has to go somewhere. The moly grease will cover the gun and you after a few cylinders.

 

[Britsmoothy]

Personally I would stick to something kinder to the skin and natural at absorbing salts.

 

[Half-Cocked]

It seemed excessive when I saw this video and I saw a few videos people doing the same. It was like buttering toast.

main reason I thought it would be useful is the chain fire good to know a tight nipple is better. The other advantage I thought would be I could leave it loaded a week until used without the powder getting wet.

I have so many questions like
what size cap and if I use a light load?

Do I need a filler in the triple 7?

do I need a patch under the ball to fill the space if I’m using a light load?

If using the patch should I still have a large 454 ball and look for lead ring when I load?

also I will be using 2f because that is what I bought for my other rifle. Again brass frame 1851 navy in .44.

I just finished watching the Pieta factory video and I am going to start collecting them as their commitment to quality control in the video is impressive!

 

[Grenadier1758]

Most factory nipples are sized for a #10 percussion cap. The difference in size is slight, but the longer length of the skirts on a #10 cap helps to hold the cap on the nipple and minimizes the likelihood of a chainfire.

A filler is not necessary for simple plinking, but the ball should be set on the powder. Note: you do not want to compress the substitute powders. Just set the ball (or bullet) to touch the powder. A filler of Cream of Wheat, corn meal or an over powder caliber appropriate wad is a good practice for improving accuracy. Accuracy for blasting tin cans at 15 feet may not be discernable, but probably will be for target scoring.

Yes, you should still use an oversize ball to shave off the ring of lead. Use pure soft lead for the ball. Even bullets should be slightly oversize.

You can use 2fg powder in your revolver.

 

[Half-Cocked]

It seemed excessive when I saw this video and I saw a few videos people doing the same. It was like buttering toast.

main reason I thought it would be useful is the chain fire good to know a tight nipple is better. The other advantage I thought would be I could leave it loaded a week until used without the powder getting wet.

I have so many questions like
what size cap and if I use a light load?

Do I need a filler in the triple 7?

do I need a patch under the ball to fill the space if I’m using a light load?

If using the patch should I still have a large 454 ball and look for lead ring when I load?

also I will be using 2f because that is what I bought for my other rifle. Again brass frame 1851 navy in .44.

I just finished watching the Pieta factory video and I am going to start collecting them as their commitment to quality control in the video is impressive!

Most factory nipples are sized for a #10 percussion cap. The difference in size is slight, but the longer length of the skirts on a #10 cap helps to hold the cap on the nipple and minimizes the likelihood of a chainfire.

A filler is not necessary for simple plinking, but the ball should be set on the powder. Note: you do not want to compress the substitute powders. Just set the ball (or bullet) to touch the powder. A filler of Cream of Wheat, corn meal or an over powder caliber appropriate wad is a good practice for improving accuracy. Accuracy for blasting tin cans at 15 feet may not be discernable, but probably will be for target scoring.

Yes, you should still use an oversize ball to shave off the ring of lead. Use pure soft lead for the ball. Even bullets should be slightly oversize.

You can use 2fg powder in your revolver.

Thank you so very much for your time in answering my questions I now have an idea what I need to do to do this safely! Also thank you very much about that suggestion for the triple 7 at some point I’m gonna try to track black powder for triple sevens so much easier to get. One of these days I might go and get 5 pounds online and pay the shipping fees.

I can’t wait for this thing to arrive!

In the meantime I’m already looking at the army revolver and something that’s a cowboy cartridge that has beautiful engraving of Roosevelt edition!

 

[Many Klatch]

What I do when I get my hands on a new cap and ball pistol is to immediately remove the original nipples and install new stainless steel nipples from Track of the Wolf. OEM nipples are kind of hit and miss and can be a cause of chain fire.

BTW #1, when you remove and replace the nipples, DON'T tighten them in as hard as you can. You only need finger tight. They aren't going to vibrate loose. I remove the nipples every time I clean the guns. Oil the threads on the nipples and then reinstall.

BTW #2 Cap and Ball revolvers eventually get hard to shoot because of carbon building up on the arbor that the cylinder turns on. Put white Lithium grease on the arbor as you slide on the cylinder to eliminate some of the carbon buildup.

 

[Half-Cocked]

What I do when I get my hands on a new cap and ball pistol is to immediately remove the original nipples and install new stainless steel nipples from Track of the Wolf. OEM nipples are kind of hit and miss and can be a cause of chain fire.

BTW #1, when you remove and replace the nipples, DON'T tighten them in as hard as you can. You only need finger tight. They aren't going to vibrate loose. I remove the nipples every time I clean the guns. Oil the threads on the nipples and then reinstall.

BTW #2 Cap and Ball revolvers eventually get hard to shoot because of carbon building up on the arbor that the cylinder turns on. Put white Lithium grease on the arbor as you slide on the cylinder to eliminate some of the carbon buildup.

Awesome tips thank you! I imagine a nipple would be like a mini breach plug on a modern inline finger tight. Been looking at the ss nipples but there a little pricy compared to replacement regular blues the price difference is big.
a sound investment though. Maybe my next upgrade.

 

[Gee Dog]

Not sure what kinds of fumes burnt moly grease produces. It may not be something you'd want to inhale or even be around. Properly proportioned bee's wax and olive oil already works pretty well.

 

[wb78963]

Instead use Slixshot nipples from Bad Man bullets and Remington #10 caps. A good solution for cap jams and chain fires. That and de-burring that miserable slot in the hammer or just JB Weld it up.
Then go to a lighter main spring and get a lighter trigger pull.
I have a pair of 1860 Army revolvers with close to 400 rounds total and NO cap jams. Slixshot nipples and a cap rake equals constant reliability.
If I have time in the morning before it hits 100 degrees and 90% humidity the Pietta Marshal pair will come out and bang steel.
More to follow
Black Powder rules and Pyrodex sux
Load 'em heavy boys they air a'comin'
Bunk

 

[Half-Cocked]

Not sure what kinds of fumes burnt moly grease produces. It may not be something you'd want to inhale or even be around. Properly proportioned bee's wax and olive oil already works pretty well.

That is a very valid concern I wanted to look up the flashpoint and heat tolerance is on the Moly. I think you guys are right on the money Moly may Not be good Application here. Not that I couldn’t be used but probably not the best product given the availability of all the stuff out there.
The idea beeswax and virgin olive oil however sounds very appealing to me given the ratio I can control how stiff the mixture becomes!

 

[Half-Cocked]

Instead use Slixshot nipples from Bad Man bullets and Remington #10 caps. A good solution for cap jams and chain fires. That and de-burring that miserable slot in the hammer or just JB Weld it up.
Then go to a lighter main spring and get a lighter trigger pull.
I have a pair of 1860 Army revolvers with close to 400 rounds total and NO cap jams. Slixshot nipples and a cap rake equals constant reliability.
If I have time in the morning before it hits 100 degrees and 90% humidity the Pietta Marshal pair will come out and bang steel.
More to follow
Black Powder rules and Pyrodex sux
Load 'em heavy boys they air a'comin'
Bunk

Awesome tips and tricks there as well going to have a look at that spring as soon as she comes in!
And I agree looks like the right on top of us partner best regulate. I tell you this whole side of historicalish Black powder culture seems a lot more fun then modern in line! You guys are awesome!

 

[Half-Cocked]

Just throwing this one out there how about Simple petroleum jelly or even something like Murphy’s pomade for hair or for those of us who have Hispanic decent a product called tres Flores similar to Murphy’s.

I do use Murphy’s to wax up the string on my cheapie crossbow. it’s really not really cost as motivation as much as if I already have something I’d like to use it that way I don’t have multiple items one item is useful for a bunch of stuff.

 

[FishDFly]

Awesome tips thank you! I imagine a nipple would be like a mini breach plug on a modern inline finger tight. Been looking at the ss nipples but there a little pricy compared to replacement regular blues the price difference is big.
a sound investment though. Maybe my next upgrade.

Replacement nipples, you get what you pay for. AMPCO is the way to go.

 

[wb78963]

To get back on subject as far as molybdenum grease is concerned, it is the medium and not the moly.
Petroleum oils and greases do not work well with real Black Gun Powder residue.
There is some complex organic chemistry that turns petroleum products reacting with Real Black Gunpowder fouling into a very difficult to remove tar.
Please do not ask me how I know.
It was embarrassing...six brass bristle brushes later something was learned.
Bunk

 

[Half-Cocked]

To get back on subject as far as molybdenum grease is concerned, it is the medium and not the moly.
Petroleum oils and greases do not work well with real Black Gun Powder residue.
There is some complex organic chemistry that turns petroleum products reacting with Real Black Gunpowder fouling into a very difficult to remove tar.
Please do not ask me how I know.
It was embarrassing...six brass bristle brushes later something was learned.
Bunk

That little piece of knowledge is worth it’s weight in gold! One of these days I’ll tell you guys the nightmares I had scrubbing out a brand new CVA wolf in line muzzleloader.
Some of you might even know my story if you’ve registered on both forums. Long story short I got the gun new tried to clean it out before I fired it a rubbed it with a number of different materials Including steel wool and still to this day three of The grooves in the rifling will not come completely clean! After reading this and trying to identify the substance in the rifling I think we may have a winner!!!

 

[Flinty Scot]

That little piece of knowledge is worth it’s weight in gold! One of these days I’ll tell you guys the nightmares I had scrubbing out a brand new CVA wolf in line muzzleloader.
Some of you might even know my story if you’ve registered on both forums. Long story short I got the gun new tried to clean it out before I fired it a rubbed it with a number of different materials Including steel wool and still to this day three of The grooves in the rifling will not come completely clean! After reading this and trying to identify the substance in the rifling I think we may have a winner!!!

Just a thought, have you tried orangewood oil solvent w/ green scrubbie patches? That stuff seems to dissolve almost anything. Maybe acetone or MEK?

 

[Half-Cocked]

Just a thought, have you tried orangewood oil solvent w/ green scrubbie patches? That stuff seems to dissolve almost anything. Maybe acetone or MEK?

Never did the acetone, tried hoppies, kroil, trans fluid, mineral oil, peroxide and alcohol, dawn dish soap, charcoal lighter fluid and motor oil. Prob some more...

 

[BadDaditood]

Never did the acetone, tried hoppies, kroil, trans fluid, mineral oil, peroxide and alcohol, dawn dish soap, charcoal lighter fluid and motor oil. Prob some more...

In my experience, if Kroil don’t work, nothing will.
If you like to use what’s on hand, get yourself a cake of pure Beeswax. You’ll find a million uses for it.
From sinking wood screws and nails to lube for teeth on aluminum cutting chopsaw blades.
Some gun builders use it on barrels after browning/neutralizing.
You can melt it and make your own blend of olive oil/beeswax poured into mini cupcakes of bowstring wax, awesome bullet lube, patch lube, cylinder topper, arbor lube even leather conditioner (A heat gun will help soak it up)
Won’t be long you’ll be wantIng more beeswax!

 

[Half-Cocked]

In my experience, if Kroil don’t work, nothing will.
If you like to use what’s on hand, get yourself a cake of pure Beeswax. You’ll find a million uses for it.
From sinking wood screws and nails to lube for teeth on aluminum cutting chopsaw blades.
Some gun builders use it on barrels after browning/neutralizing.
You can melt it and make your own blend of olive oil/beeswax poured into mini cupcakes of bowstring wax, awesome bullet lube, patch lube, cylinder topper, arbor lube even leather conditioner (A heat gun will help soak it up)
Won’t be long you’ll be wantIng more beeswax!

Definitely sounds like I’ll be adding this to my collection then! I’ll look out for online and local sources in addition to the many uses of beeswax.