Whats in Moose Milk and do you use it for patchers only or also as a cleaner. I use spit for my patches and Simple Green cut with 50% water for cleaning. What do you think??
Thanks-----Jucie Jaws
Thanks-----Jucie Jaws
MOOSE MILK
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Goldhunter
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Welcome to the ML Forum. There is a wealth of knowledge here. So take it in. :grin:
Traditionally Moose Milk is a mixture of water soluble oil and water. The mixture is a milky color and provides a good lubricant for patches and since it is mostly waer does a good job of cleaning black powder residue.
There are many different concoctions of this. I've only used the store bought stuff for cleaning. There are a ton of recipes for this. Try doing a search on this forum to get some different ideas.
Traditionally Moose Milk is a mixture of water soluble oil and water. The mixture is a milky color and provides a good lubricant for patches and since it is mostly waer does a good job of cleaning black powder residue.
There are many different concoctions of this. I've only used the store bought stuff for cleaning. There are a ton of recipes for this. Try doing a search on this forum to get some different ideas.
Guest
For Black Powder, mix Ballistol with water 50/50. Best Moose milk ever. You can use it as patch lube, cleaning solvent, protective oil, wood- and leather maintenance, car polish, little wounds, and, and, and... Just look up the Ballistol-website.
And the best, it's only $5.78 for 16 fl oz at Midsouth Shooters Supply.
That stuff works great for me.
And the best, it's only $5.78 for 16 fl oz at Midsouth Shooters Supply.
That stuff works great for me.
About the best Moose Milk I've found is Stumpkillers formula. I liked it so well, I thought it deserved something better than just being labled "Moose Milk" because there are hundreds of formulas for plain old Moose Milk.
I decided it should be called Moose Juice. :grin:
Stumpkiller by the way is one of the moderators here. A year or so ago, he did a number of tests to find out what the best rust preventitives were and came to the conclusion that Castor Oil is hard to beat.
Using this information he came up with this:
Stumpy's Moose Juice
A general purpose blackpowder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using. Can be allowed to dry on dipped patching for a dry lube dry flat on waxed paper & dip twice for best saturation). Add ingredients in the following order and shake well after each is added.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 4 TABLESPOONS
Castor Oil 1 1/2 TABLESPOONS
Murphys Oil Soap 1 1/2 TEASPOONS
Witch Hazel 2 TABLESPOONS
Water (non-chlorinated) 1/2 CUP
When used "wet" to lubricate the patch it does double duty as a bore wipe. It can also be used to wipe the bore between shots but I've found that just using it to wet the patch when loading I don't need to wipe the bore between shots.
It also works well as a dry patch lube if you soak your patching material and let it dry although if you lick your patch to moisten it you will taste the Castor oil for an hour.
I keep my Moose Juice in a old plastic mustard squeeze bottle. Makes it handy to use at the rifle range.
Zonie
I decided it should be called Moose Juice. :grin:
Stumpkiller by the way is one of the moderators here. A year or so ago, he did a number of tests to find out what the best rust preventitives were and came to the conclusion that Castor Oil is hard to beat.
Using this information he came up with this:
Stumpy's Moose Juice
A general purpose blackpowder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using. Can be allowed to dry on dipped patching for a dry lube dry flat on waxed paper & dip twice for best saturation). Add ingredients in the following order and shake well after each is added.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 4 TABLESPOONS
Castor Oil 1 1/2 TABLESPOONS
Murphys Oil Soap 1 1/2 TEASPOONS
Witch Hazel 2 TABLESPOONS
Water (non-chlorinated) 1/2 CUP
When used "wet" to lubricate the patch it does double duty as a bore wipe. It can also be used to wipe the bore between shots but I've found that just using it to wet the patch when loading I don't need to wipe the bore between shots.
It also works well as a dry patch lube if you soak your patching material and let it dry although if you lick your patch to moisten it you will taste the Castor oil for an hour.
I keep my Moose Juice in a old plastic mustard squeeze bottle. Makes it handy to use at the rifle range.
Zonie
Thanks for the answers, will try Stumpkillers Moose Milk.
roo shooter
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Do you use the Ballistol/water as a protectant or just the Ballistol?
The mix I use is Ballistol 1:10 water for patch lube and bore solvent, sprayed some on freshley ground metal and left it in the shed for two weeks, no rust.
The mix I use is Ballistol 1:10 water for patch lube and bore solvent, sprayed some on freshley ground metal and left it in the shed for two weeks, no rust.
big mitch: I guess I was holding my tongue wrong or something when I last used Ballistol to protect my muzzleloader bores. Every one of them developed light surface rust and I live in Arizona where the humidity is seldom as much as 35 percent.
I did notice that Ballistol soaks up water instantly and came to the conclusion that anything that soaks up water probably shouldn't be in my gunbarrels.
Using Stumpy's Moose Juice with it's Castor Oil, I haven't had any problems at all.
I did notice that Ballistol soaks up water instantly and came to the conclusion that anything that soaks up water probably shouldn't be in my gunbarrels.
Using Stumpy's Moose Juice with it's Castor Oil, I haven't had any problems at all.
DrTimboone
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I been using Ballistol 100% to lube & protect my guns for a couple of years. absolutely no rust here in humid GA. Use Chambers oil for the lock but Ballistol in the bore. I am going to use Balistol & Water soaked and dry patches this fall and also some Lehigh I just got to see if they perform any different for shooting.
Zonie has converted my fixins and mixins to tablespoons. I have a 1 oz. shotglass, and sometimes there are no spoons (or tables) available. Here's the "original". Add all the mixins to a two liter plastic sode bottle and shake well. Castor oil is not water soluable, but it is alcohol soluable. Add the alcohol first and the water last.
Stumpy's Moose Juice
A general purpose blackpowder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using
Castor Oil 3 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated) 16 oz.
I dip my patching in this twice and let it dry between. Makes a semi-dry patch material that's easy to carry & use. If you don't mind carrying a little bottle it's a GREAT liquid lube as is.
Stumpy's Moose Juice
A general purpose blackpowder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using
Castor Oil 3 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated) 16 oz.
I dip my patching in this twice and let it dry between. Makes a semi-dry patch material that's easy to carry & use. If you don't mind carrying a little bottle it's a GREAT liquid lube as is.
Old Ironsights
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Is that a Period Correct 2L bottle,or should I be looking for somthing a bit more "modern"? :blah: :rotf: :winking:
BTW, I can understand the first & last 2, but what does the Witch Hazel do for the mix?
BTW, I can understand the first & last 2, but what does the Witch Hazel do for the mix?
paulvallandigham
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The witch hazel bonds to the oils and keept them from clumping in the mixture, so you get an even liquid that does not have to be stirred or shaken before every use. Otherwise, the soaps would cause the oil to lump up.
I don't personally think that the soaps add anything to a patch lubricant, nor much to the cleaning powder of the mineral oil, or olive oil, or cooking oil, etc. and beeswax. The alcohol does help to blend the oil and wax under heat, but usually cooks off.
I don't personally think that the soaps add anything to a patch lubricant, nor much to the cleaning powder of the mineral oil, or olive oil, or cooking oil, etc. and beeswax. The alcohol does help to blend the oil and wax under heat, but usually cooks off.
That's a two liter crockery jar, of course. :winking:
The witch hazel does just what Paul said. It "smears" the oils better. The active oils and esters in it are "astringents". That's a $2 word that means they help keep the castor oil, which is not water soluable and is one of the few vegetable oils that shares properties of animal oils, in solution. The Murphy's does double service; as a vegetable oil and as a detergent/emulsifier. In cleaning away the powder it binds up the fouling so that water can carry it away easier. I don't think it does add much as a lube. But then, your own saliva makes a darned good lube. In the grease style lube I do get a better "string" for ease of loading over multiple shots with it in the mix, so I've stuck with it. In the "milk" lube the Murphy's also helps to keep the oils in suspension and "smear" well along the metal.
The witch hazel does just what Paul said. It "smears" the oils better. The active oils and esters in it are "astringents". That's a $2 word that means they help keep the castor oil, which is not water soluable and is one of the few vegetable oils that shares properties of animal oils, in solution. The Murphy's does double service; as a vegetable oil and as a detergent/emulsifier. In cleaning away the powder it binds up the fouling so that water can carry it away easier. I don't think it does add much as a lube. But then, your own saliva makes a darned good lube. In the grease style lube I do get a better "string" for ease of loading over multiple shots with it in the mix, so I've stuck with it. In the "milk" lube the Murphy's also helps to keep the oils in suspension and "smear" well along the metal.
"That's a two liter crockery jar, of course" which explains why I got out my calculator out and reduced the formulas size by using teaspoons and tablespoons and such.
I really don't need a couple of quarts of the stuff sitting around so I figured that if I made it up in a small batch it would be easier to tote down to the gun range. :grin:
The amounts given in my receipt makes a 12 ounce batch (1 1/2 cups) which is just right for the 13 ounce mustard squeeze bottle I stored it in.
Korse, evan ole dumb zonie new enouff to warsh tha last o' tha mustard out afore puttin ma muuse milk inter it. :rotf:
Zonie
I really don't need a couple of quarts of the stuff sitting around so I figured that if I made it up in a small batch it would be easier to tote down to the gun range. :grin:
The amounts given in my receipt makes a 12 ounce batch (1 1/2 cups) which is just right for the 13 ounce mustard squeeze bottle I stored it in.
Korse, evan ole dumb zonie new enouff to warsh tha last o' tha mustard out afore puttin ma muuse milk inter it. :rotf:
Zonie
DrTimboone
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Phew that Murphy's has a strong odor!! Chased me away........I am a little concerned about the scent in the field when hunting....or do you just use this Moose Milk for the range?? :hmm:
Guest
I use plain Ballistol as protectant for metal, and watered up for shooting/barrel sweeping, wood and leather treatment.
It's a 100 year old German recipie and I even have a hard time to get my fingers "deballistoled" with warm water and soap. They say that the oil-content creeps UNDER the water.
Doesn't smell that good, to be honest. Like 10-times worn socks in hot weather.
Being in southern Nevada, I had never a problem with rust caused by mixed up Ballistol.
P.S.: What about the name "Stump-Juice"? The concoction sounds very good, I'll try it.
It's a 100 year old German recipie and I even have a hard time to get my fingers "deballistoled" with warm water and soap. They say that the oil-content creeps UNDER the water.
Doesn't smell that good, to be honest. Like 10-times worn socks in hot weather.
Being in southern Nevada, I had never a problem with rust caused by mixed up Ballistol.
P.S.: What about the name "Stump-Juice"? The concoction sounds very good, I'll try it.
I have a three shot block that I keep patched balls in. The patching is twice soaked and dried between so it is mostly dry when in use. I keep my nose into the wind and hunt on foot so the odors don't "pool" like around a tree-stand.
Some odors don't seem to alarm deer. Maybe they don't associate them with "normal" human scent and odors. I've taken deer at 10 paces while sitting on a stump with a muzzleloader - with Murphy's Oil in the lube and a roll of the treated patching in my pouch.
I bet they're getting suspicious lately about Stroger's/Hoppes #9, WD-40 and Ballistol. But I've had them walk past where I just mowed with a geezeerly tractor or cut wood with a 2-stroke chainsaw.
Some odors don't seem to alarm deer. Maybe they don't associate them with "normal" human scent and odors. I've taken deer at 10 paces while sitting on a stump with a muzzleloader - with Murphy's Oil in the lube and a roll of the treated patching in my pouch.
I bet they're getting suspicious lately about Stroger's/Hoppes #9, WD-40 and Ballistol. But I've had them walk past where I just mowed with a geezeerly tractor or cut wood with a 2-stroke chainsaw.
paulvallandigham
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I think deer that live in farm country are pretty used to man, and all the smells that come with us. They don't seem to be alarmed at smoke, or the sound of engines, or the smell of diesel oil or gasoline. I think this may be very different for deer living in wilderness areas, although those seem to be getting smaller and smaller each year, too. I saw a TV show this past year where a hunter was lining up to take a long shot at a caribou, and while the camera was rolling, and even the cameraman apparently did not notice, a wolf or coyote ran across the field of view about 50 yds from the caribou. The animal focused on the dog, and watched it until it got out of range to be any danger to it. The animal did not pay any attention at all to the hunter, his guide, or the cameraman over 200 yds away. I don't think he even knew they were there, in spite of moving around, wearing colorful insulated clothing, etc. Only the wind was not blowing towards the Caribou. That was their advantage, and, of course, they dropped the caribou with one shot.
Maestro
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I think they know what's routine and what's not - with both scent and movement of people. I drove by a lady walking down her driveway to get her mail from her roadside mailbox with an eight-point buck about 10 yards away from her, grazing on her lawn! I looked in astonishment as I drove by slowly and she just looked at me and shrugged her shoulders! I also have friends that own horses and they have deer 20-30 yards away from them in their field when they drive down to their corral to feed the horses. The deer just look up at them and then away again.
BUT....
When they catch a whiff of human scent in the woods where it isn't so common... BUSTED!
BUT....
When they catch a whiff of human scent in the woods where it isn't so common... BUSTED!
paulvallandigham
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That has not been my experience, Maestro. I have had deer browse right up to where I was sitting. A friend was smoking a cigarette, and had a buck push past him with his nose less than a foot from the smoke trailing up off the cigarette. Other friends have had deer bed down under their tree stands, while they are in them.
IMHO, many hunters ascribe to scent behavior of deer that is rather caused by noise, and quick movement by the hunters. I have sat in trees on more than one occasion, watching a hunter crash through the woods( even my deaf ears could hear him) pushing deer ahead of him 75 yds, and then met the hunter later in the day, to hear him say he saw and heard nothing when he scouted those woods. Duh! I guess not!
IMHO, many hunters ascribe to scent behavior of deer that is rather caused by noise, and quick movement by the hunters. I have sat in trees on more than one occasion, watching a hunter crash through the woods( even my deaf ears could hear him) pushing deer ahead of him 75 yds, and then met the hunter later in the day, to hear him say he saw and heard nothing when he scouted those woods. Duh! I guess not!
