More Cleaning Questions?

[Uncle Mike]

Hi,Thanks to all for the great info.How about removing the trigger group?I took the lock out this morning a fairly easy take down. I have a DGW Jaeger by Pedersoli. Is the the barrel made to be removed? When I got this rifle it had zero information in the box; and between searching this site and you great guys answering my questions I'am getting along. :hatsoff: Regards,Mike

 

[paulvallandigham]

Yes, the barrel can be removed from the stock. You will probably need a small diameter- 1/16"- punch to drift the pins out. They move from left to right to remove, as you look down on the barrel from above, and right to left to put back in. Keep the pins in the order in which they are removed, as they are often sized to a particular hole.

While you can remove them for cleaning, and, with care, not bung up the holes in the wood, its better if you seal the wood in the barrel channel with some stock finish, then put a coat of some good grease that stays as grease over a wide range of temperatures. The grease will protect the barrel from rusting, and keep water out of the barrel channel, whether from cleaning, or being out in the rain.

Look at water pump grease, or some of the new synthetic greases designed for the aircraft industry that work at both high temperatures and very low temperature to keep engines(hot) working at high (cold) altitudes.

Once you have protected the underside three flats of the barrel, there is little need to take the barrel out of the gun for any purpose.

Grease the breechplug and tang for the same reasons.

 

[Birddog6]

Before ya go punchin out those pins, look in the pin holes for grease, wax or finish. If there is some in there, take a 1/16" drill bit & put it in the hole & carefully spin the bit to clean out the holes. If you just punch them out you may tear out a sliver of wood in the process as the hole may be partially blocked with finish, oil, wax, etc. Clean the hole out & then carefully push the pins out. Watch as you come out with them that they don't grab wood.
If you do tear out a sliver, glue it back in place right then before ya lose it. Let it set up overnight & then ream the hole out with the same size drill bit as the dia. of the pin is. On the few occasions this has happened to me, I glue the slivers of wood back in with Elmers stainable wood glue, put a lil glue on with the sliver, push it into place, then wipe off the excess glue with a damp paper towel.

:thumbsup:

 

[Stormrider51]

I have always periodically removed and cleaned each part of my rifles. That includes set triggers or any trigger that is mounted on a removable plate. If it's a single pinned-in trigger I can usually access it through the lock mortise and keep it clean and lightly lubed so I don't remove those.

A flush nipple or other device that allows you to clean the barrel without removing it from the wood is great but as someone noted, it is advisable to take some precautions. I'm always astounded at the rifles, modern and frontstuffer, that I see in my shop that have bare wood in the barrel channel and other areas. This isn't just an invitation for trouble, it is a guarantee. Unsealed wood absorbs moisture that will eventually cause rot. Moisture held next to steel will eventually cause rust as well. If you haven't already done so, remove every metal part of your firearm, including the thimbles, and check to see if there is bare wood underneath. If there is then seal the wood with an appropriate substance. I have long used Johnson's Furniture Paste Wax. It seals well but doesn't add any thickness. I also rub on a coat on the barrel, top and bottom. Never had a problem with rust yet.

Storm

 

[chapmans]

When you remove the barrel make sure you take out the top lock bolt, sometimes it goes through part of the breech plug and you will crack the stock. I have seen many rifles cracked this way.
Longball 58

 

[Stumpkiller]

I'll toss my hat in here and add that is the barrel and trigger are pinned I do not remove them . . . ever.

I had a Kit Ravenshear Bess for 15 years and removed the barrel once and the trigger never, and my current Lehigh I have had three years and removed neither (though I do pull the locks to clean). Too great a risk of damaging the wood and loosening the pins or buggering something up and no value added IMHO.

Keyed barrels with hooked breeches and trigger assemblies ("groups") are another story. They're designed to come out easy.

 

[Frank/Pa]

Concur with Stumpy. No need to ever remove a pinned barrel unless you need to remove the breech plug for some reason.

 

[Uncle Mike]

Thanks for all your help.Regards,Mike