More India made smoothies!?!?!

[ToothPick]

Yep!

Did some horse trading yesterday and we both walked away happy.

I traded a yugo SKS and some ammo for these two.

A CVA .50 Hawkin and this tulle fusil de chasse.

The fusil is new, came with fints and balls and the Hawkin (1980's) is used.

He bought the Fusil from a Texas gun shop when he thought he might try reenacting but never did.

I'm going to treat it as a kit gun and try my hand at giving it a make over. The trigger and lock seems to work pretty decent, breaks nice and throws plenty of sparks.

I have a few questions

Who do you think imported it?

What is the best way to kill some of that shine and age the metal a bit?

Anyone have a good recipe for wood stain that will help darken it up and give that rich chocolate color and help it appear to have some age? After sanding the old stuff off of course.

Thanks

 

[garra]

As far as refinishing the wood, I would strip it first with something like Citristrip rather than sanding it. On wood I have done I give it a BLO scrub with oooo steel wool and then use leather dye to get the color I want.

 

[nwtradegun]

bleach will etch the metal, be careful as to how long you leave it wraped. improters are www.middlesexvillagetrading.com www.militaryheritage.com/musket1.htm www.veteranarms.com/ReproductionMuzzleloadersandFlintlocks flintlockrepair.com
there is one in lumpkin, ga. kind of iffy. takes order and money not to be heard from again

 

[Zonie]

I don't recommend even mentioning the word "bleach" around steel gun parts.

It attacks steel rapidly and is difficult to stop once it gets started.

A very mild acid like vinegar will darken steel without rusting it badly.

 

[ddoyle]

If it was mine I'd rust/boil blue the furniture and barrel. Leave the lock bright.

Is that stock teak? best experiment in the barrel channel.

 

[AZbpBurner]

It looks identical to my Fusil de Chasse from Loyalist Arms that I'm working on now, from the trardrop configuration of the carving at the rear of the lock, to the lock internals.

Leave the barrel and lock in the white. You can knock down the excess glare with a White 3M finishing pad. I have another fusil with shiney barrel, and when left finely polished, it will resist staining and rust.

 

[ToothPick]

I just looked at Loyalist Arms website and it looked like the one I saw had Brass furniture on it? Maybe they changed thru the years

 

[Loyalist Dave]

I don't think that's a Loyalist Arms fusil de chasse....the LA, Veteran Arms, and the MVTC locks for their fusil de chasse all have unbridled locks...that lock is clearly bridled. Military Heritage doesn't sell a fusil. Now of course if that's an older model OR if the photos on the website show an earlier model of lock, and the newer ones have bridled pans, I may be mistaken, but I think that may be one of the guns somebody found on the internet and imported straight from India.

LD

 

[spudnut]

Easy and super safe way to get rid of the shine,000 steel wool,degrease with alcohol or detergent,dont touch with your bare fingers, then paint it down with yellow mustard and let it sit a day or so,wash the nasty dried stuff off with water let it dry and polish it with burlap, repeat for desired patina . looks great, they call it French grey (frenches mustard lol)

 

[nhmoose]

I don't recommend even mentioning the word "bleach" around steel gun parts.

It attacks steel rapidly and is difficult to stop once it gets started.

A very mild acid like vinegar will darken steel without rusting it badly.

Never seen Herschel Houses Video on making a rifle?? Everything will etch steel but so what. Hot rust blue does the same as all other blue/rust products.

Controlling the rusting is the secret.

 

[ToothPick]

I don't think that's a Loyalist Arms fusil de chasse....the LA, Veteran Arms, and the MVTC locks for their fusil de chasse all have unbridled locks...that lock is clearly bridled. Military Heritage doesn't sell a fusil. Now of course if that's an older model OR if the photos on the website show an earlier model of lock, and the newer ones have bridled pans, I may be mistaken, but I think that may be one of the guns somebody found on the internet and imported straight from India.

LD

Pardon my ignorance but as far a shooting/build quality goes, is being bridled good or bad?

Thanks

 

[Grenadier1758]

A bridled frizzen is an improvement. More support for the frizzen. You may not notice much improvement in performance, but the lock will be more durable.

 

[Zonie]

I don't recommend even mentioning the word "bleach" around steel gun parts.

It attacks steel rapidly and is difficult to stop once it gets started.

A very mild acid like vinegar will darken steel without rusting it badly.

Never seen Herschel Houses Video on making a rifle?? Everything will etch steel but so what. Hot rust blue does the same as all other blue/rust products.

Controlling the rusting is the secret.

I once wanted to make a Confederate pistol that looked like it had been in a cornfield for a year or so.
I knew exactly what to use to do that. Bleach.

Here's the results



There are dozens of things besides bleach that can be used to brown, blue or age a barrel that are easier to control.
I would recommend any of them before I would suggest using bleach.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

ToothPick Jim wrote:
Pardon my ignorance but as far a shooting/build quality goes, is being bridled good or bad?

Grenadier1758 wrote:
A bridled frizzen is an improvement. More support for the frizzen. You may not notice much improvement in performance, but the lock will be more durable.

Mike is right, it is better for the lock with a frizzen bridle.

You find "older style" locks with that sort of set up to better replicate the style of lock that was found on certain guns.

Track of the Wolf offers some quality locks with the same set up: Colonial American Lock Christian Spring Lock (popular for some German rifles) Early Ketland .

Note the robust frizzen screw in all three. :wink:

LD

 

[AZbpBurner]

I just looked at Loyalist Arms website and it looked like the one I saw had Brass furniture on it? Maybe they changed thru the years

The website shows brass, but mine is iron. The wood looks like LA, but my lock definitely is not bridled - internals look the same, though.

 

[Grenadier1758]

Some years back Loyalist had a version of the very early land pattern musket with steel furniture, butt plate, trigger guard, ram rod pipes. It was representative of the musket pattern referred to as Queen Anne. The original muskets were produced up to about 1725. The locks were unbridled. Once the official pattern for the Long Land Muskets was settled on about 1728, the trigger guard, butt plate and pipes were brass. Locks on those muskets of the 1730 pattern will have locks with earlier dates. My Loyalist Arms 1730 long land pattern has an unbridled Dublin Castle lock dated 1728, brass furniture. I have not seen that model offered by Loyalist Arms for quite some time.

Loyalist changes models and designation quite often.

 

[nhmoose]

I don't recommend even mentioning the word "bleach" around steel gun parts.

It attacks steel rapidly and is difficult to stop once it gets started.

A very mild acid like vinegar will darken steel without rusting it badly.

Never seen Herschel Houses Video on making a rifle?? Everything will etch steel but so what. Hot rust blue does the same as all other blue/rust products.

Controlling the rusting is the secret.

I once wanted to make a Confederate pistol that looked like it had been in a cornfield for a year or so.
I knew exactly what to use to do that. Bleach.

Here's the results



There are dozens of things besides bleach that can be used to brown, blue or age a barrel that are easier to control.
I would recommend any of them before I would suggest using bleach.

If you want to shoot it again you have to plug the bore and cylinder chambers, then inside the action protect the metal with urethane the surfaces wanting smooth. I did finishes on metal for over 30 years commercially, bleach is a tool like any other just saying by the way. It appears you do not like it but it does have a use. Saying it does not is wrong but that is just my opinion obviously not yours. I hate to argue with a moderator but that is still my opinion. All due respect to you Sir.

 

[Zonie]

Feel free to argue with a moderator. We aren't some privileged group around here.

Well, maybe "argue" isn't the best word. Maybe "disagree" would be better?

Anyway, yes, I do know what I'm doing and every critical/operating surface on that pistol was left in its factory new condition on my "aged" pistol.

By the way, if anyone sees that pistol for sale, it was stolen from my house during a burglary.
It is S/N 302257

 

[nhmoose]

Feel free to argue with a moderator. We aren't some privileged group around here.

Well, maybe "argue" isn't the best word. Maybe "disagree" would be better?

Anyway, yes, I do know what I'm doing and every critical/operating surface on that pistol was left in its factory new condition on my "aged" pistol.

By the way, if anyone sees that pistol for sale, it was stolen from my house during a burglary.
It is S/N 302257

Thanks Zonie, disagree is correct. Typing looses many nuances mine especially.

 

[azmntman]

Well that there stolen pistol looks like it was used by a ol great great of mine, VeRY well "aged".
Maybe when I get "time" LOLOL I will hit you up for directions and do my 1849 the same way. WAY COOL!