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Duh! I forgot to mention 485 grain Conicals. Sorry!
That's ok, I knew what you were using by the velocity and your previous posts on No Excuses. I shot them with 90 grains also and that is very close to the velocity I got also with a 23" and 24" barrel.
 
I’d run me a pipe cleaner up thru the fire channel to be sure it’s clear. After that, when you dump your powder in give the stock a couple of smacks opposite of the lock side to be sure the powder makes it to the drum before you seat your bullet. I bet your issues go away with that simple little step.
 
Anyway I figured out my nipple channel was too small so I opened it up a hair and drill a cone on the base of it.
Curious what ‘a hair’ would measure in inches or mm? I have found .028” to .035” max diameter gives the most consistent performance with no hammer blowback whether using percussion or musket caps. Any larger orifice and gremlins start to visit when least expected or wanted. I would suspect your issue is not related to the orifice size, but if opening it up ‘a hair’ is eliminating the issue, great. Hope the issue doesn’t return at an inopportune moment.
 
Curious what ‘a hair’ would measure in inches or mm? I have found .028” to .035” max diameter gives the most consistent performance with no hammer blowback whether using percussion or musket caps. Any larger orifice and gremlins start to visit when least expected or wanted. I would suspect your issue is not related to the orifice size, but if opening it up ‘a hair’ is eliminating the issue, great. Hope the issue doesn’t return at an inopportune moment.
I double down on what SDSmlf is saying. He got me started pinning my nipples (sounds ouchy, doesn't it :eek:) and my experience tracked his experience, which I never doubted. Boring out the nipples is a easy fix, but essentially the wrong one. As the orifice erodes to larger and larger, you will find your groups start to open up, in most cases considerably and you will get hammer blow back.

I am a hunter, like you @gunpa, and reliability in ignition is important. I have taken to using a small pan primer that only puts out a few grains per push to put under my nipple for my first shot for hunting. With FFFg T7, it puts out about 1.5 grains, not enough to change the load, but enough to ensure that the first shot goes BOOM every time. I haven't had issues, but it is extra insurance as those pesky elk don't walk by you as often as you might like and I don't want to miss a chance!

SDSmlf recommendations come from much precise measuring and meticulously detailing all manners of things in his shooting, from lube, bullets, paper patching and loads for his precision shooting. I have yet to find one of his recommendations to be wrong. I was extremely lucky to have collaborated with him on my Thumper development.

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I had the same issue until Walking Eagle suggested that I use a "Duplex" load. I pour 10 gns of FFG black into the barrel then followed by 70 gns of Triple 7 FFG. This seems to have cured the problem for me.
 
I do use the pipe cleaners a lot. I checked my flame pattern by running a clean dry patch to the bottom of the barrel and popping a cap. I've done this for years and it gives you a good read on how much fire is getting to the powder. No surprise mine was weak. I'm looking around for better nipples. Thanks for the comments guys!
 
I do use the pipe cleaners a lot. I checked my flame pattern by running a clean dry patch to the bottom of the barrel and popping a cap. I've done this for years and it gives you a good read on how much fire is getting to the powder. No surprise mine was weak. I'm looking around for better nipples. Thanks for the comments guys!
Check your private messages
 
I have yet to find one of his recommendations to be wrong.
You sir, have never spoken to my bride…. she can point out when I’ve been wrong with a PowerPoint presentation.

Using gauge pins to track erosion is something I have done for years, as it seemed to always track with performance. I am not yet believing that orifice size is the OP’s issue, as there are just too many success stories with the ‘smaller’ diameters. That RWS 1081 cap should ignite damp charcoal. Moisture? Something in the ignition channel? Are you swabbing and maybe pushing crud where you don’t want it? If swabbing, consider running a dry patch on a jag to the breech AFTER swabbing, then fire off a cap or two (too pricy at todays cap prices according to some, so maybe a good use for CCI caps), then pull that patch out. You should see a distinct scorch pattern on the patch. And what gun are you shooting? Assuming something with a chambered breech.

One last thing to consider, during our ‘collaboration’, @chorizo suggested a steam cleaner for the breech, particularly chambered breeches. Purchased the one he recommended, and to be honest, it does quite number, removing ‘stuff’ from the breech of a clean gun. Surprising to see what comes out post a vigorous cleaning by pumping with soapy water.

Back to measuring orifice size for consistency. Gauge pins are the ‘best’, however, numbered drills and even weld tip cleaners can tell you what you need to know.
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ca
 
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This is a clear case of I'm senile denial. I've failed to check my flame pattern (dumb). I don't have pin gauges and no doubt shortened the lifespan of this nipple, but I got results. Don't have before but here's after drilling. More like it!
 

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7/64 drill bit top and bottom.
.109”, boy that is a BIG hole for a nipple orifice (I toss mine when they approach .035”). But if you’re happy with how it works for, great.

Have you noticed the hammer going to half cock as you shoot? If you find it going to full cock you may want to stock up on spare parts, things like the sear and the tumbler will take ‘auto cocking’ just so many times before giving up the ghost.
 
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