First off, to Kodiak13,Dean2, and Good Cheer.
We don’t know this young man. Let’s hope he has good eyes, but although I can’t see as well as I used to, I still have better sight at 61 than some teenagers I’ve been around. Some people are born needing glasses.
What a few posters have ignored is something the average 14 year old doesn’t have. A lot of money.
So, to Marylander98.
You say you are new to flintlocks. Does that mean you have experience with percussion rifles but not flintlocks, or is the whole game new to you? If it’s the latter, and I suspect it is, find a used but not abused traditional Thompson Center, Lyman, Pedersoli, Navy Arms etc. and be willing to settle for starting out with a percussion. For hunting deer, I would opt for a .50 or .54, but lots of ”˜em die with .45 caliber balls as well. Used percussion are easier to find than flintlocks and possibly, in mass-produced guns anyway, a tad more reliable.
The most important thing in getting a “good” flintlock, is the lock itself. No matter how attractive the rifle may be, if you have to cross your fingers and hope it will fire every time you pull the trigger you are going to end up frustrated and discouraged. Admittedly, all of the mass- produced rifles I’ve owned were percussion and so I have no first hand experience with mass-produced flintlocks. But I’ve both heard and read stories from others. With a top-of-the-line lock there should little or none of the learning curve some folks talk about. There shouldn’t be any discernable difference between shooting percussion or flint.
After you get your feet wet (maybe even soaked) with that used rifle and you know that you are hooked, you can start saving toward the fine hand-built flinter you are going to want. And, because you are on here asking questions, it’s almost a certainty you are going to want one. Your own experience will help you decide what fits your needs better than any of us can.
A quick check in Muzzle Blasts shows clubs in Maryland, Pennsylvania, Virginia, and West Virginia. Find the one nearest you and bum a ride to a shoot or two. Watch, ask questions, and learn. Before you know it, you will find out that there are legal pastimes that are every bit as addicting and costly as doing drugs.
Oh, and about that used rifle.
First off, examine the area around the lock. If there are signs of a lot of pitting, but it back in the rack and don’t waste any more time on it. If that area was neglected it’s an even bet the bore was as well. If the outside looks OK, shine the bore light you bought in the gun department at Wal-Mart down the barrel and check the bore. Hopefully the whole length of it will be bright and shiny, but on some production rifles it’s almost like they blued the bore as well as the outside and they don’t reflect as well. At any rate, you should be able to get a good look at the first two or three inches near the muzzle. If that part looks good the rest is probably good as well. The final step is to run a cleaning patch on a properly sized jag down the barrel. This will find any hidden rough spots and give another indication of how much, if any, rust is in the bore. Personally, I thing a little bit is okay as long as it isn’t enough to have pitted the bore. I’m talking TRACES of brown in the grooves.
Good luck to you. I hope you enjoy the game as much as I have for almost half a century.