• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Must set trigger before cocking

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Feb 27, 2020
Messages
44
Reaction score
35
Location
Northern New Mexico
I bought a pre warning TC Hawken in .45 which would not ****. They gave me a good price and thought I could fix it. Turns out that you must set the trigger first before halfcocking. Researching the web found a couple posts that said some guns were made that way by the manufacturer. Does anyone know if TC ever did this and, if not what can be done. I work with use and think this is a potential safety issue.
 
All TCs that I know of can be safely cocked regardless of the trigger being set or not. But in the last few decades anything could of been altered or broken so find some one that can check out your rifle. Safety first!
 
Not sure on TC's but this can be caused by the sear striking the trigger which in turn is caused by the geometry between the trigger and sear being wrong.
It can be fixed by dropping the trigger mechanism or filing the top of the trigger where it strikes the sear.
Not something you rush to do.
Perhaps try packing the trigger mechanism out and see if this helps.
If you are up for adjusting the trigger then you need to do a bit of homework as I am not able to tell you how to do it effectively.
Take the trigger mechanism out and see how the triggers sit in the set and unset positions.
Set and activate the trigger out of the wood and you will see how the rear trigger flys up when the trigger is set and activated. You can also see how the front trigger is basically a simple lever that acts against the sear.
Look up into the hole in the bottom of the stock and you will see how the sear arm projects across so the trigger can act on it.
Basically you need to lower both the set and unset trigger surfaces such that they do not strike the trigger when the hammer is cocked and the trigger unset. But the sear is close enough so that when the set trigger is tripped it strikes with enough force to release the hammer.

Sorry for the ramble. First just space the trigger mechanism out using card till you get it to work.
 
Several of the older guns made in the mid 1800's had triggers that were designed to work like your gun. I have two such guns in my collection, and when I go to shoot them I have to remember to set the trigger first before pulling the hammer back or I will get a AD. As far as I know, all of the T/C double set trigger guns were double phased triggers that could be fired set or unset. Your problem could be related to the inletting of the trigger assembly. I would take the trigger assembly out of the gun to see if it works properly. If it does, then it is likely an inletting issue, or a sear issue.
 
Not sure on TC's but this can be caused by the sear striking the trigger which in turn is caused by the geometry between the trigger and sear being wrong.
It can be fixed by dropping the trigger mechanism or filing the top of the trigger where it strikes the sear.

I had a used rifle that was purchased from an auction. All that was required to fix it was to shim the trigger down. T/C sometimes used hot glue as a shim to make up for a slightly poor fit, someone may have removed that glue. Shim it as required or file it if you must and it will likely be fixed.
 
Pretty much as @LawrenceA and @waarp8nt have stated. A T/C should not require that the triggers be set to **** the hammer. That is an indication that the rear (set) trigger lever is too tall in the trigger mortise and keeping the sear from entering the notches in the tumbler. It is possible to adjust the rear trigger lever to lower it by taking some of the set trigger spring pressure off the rear trigger lever. More likely the fix will be a shim to lower the trigger assembly so the set trigger lever is no longer interfering with the sear.
 
Thanks for the help. I guess a shim will be the answer. Too bad as the trigger assembly is just flush. I did try a Davis Deer Slayer trigger and it didn’t have enough clearance to set at all. It may be a few days, but I will post results.
 
You can adjust the spring travel on the rear trigger with the tiny Allen screw behind the back trigger. Loosen the tension on the spring first.
 
Before shimming, filing or turning screws shouldn’t you know and understand what’s happening first? Ask yourself how these parts are ment to interact and is the lock working correctly. Are the triggers in good order or the stock wood binding some thing. Know were you’re going before you start and you’ll get there sooner.
 
It has been messed with and is now unsafe. Fix it.

The fix is probably easy. The spring that powers the rear trigger kick has a travel limit screw. If somebody unscrewed it or removed it the spring will push the rear trigger bar way up and cause it to push on the sear. The rear trigger should be operating on inertia then it hits the sear bar. It does not need gorilla strength spring power to trip the lock. Make it operate that way and it will probably be OK.

IF someone inletted the set triggers deeper than intended by TC all bets are off.
 

Attachments

  • set.jpg
    set.jpg
    25.3 KB
Anybody that knows me knows I love TC muzzleloaders. That being said, a couple of things that have always bugged me about them is their use of cheap wood screws that are near impossible to loosen or tighten without boogerin' the slots/heads up on them. The other thing is their excessive reliance on hot glue to fit parts rather than exercise a little QC in the manufacturing process. My money is on the triggers needin' to be shimmed out a bit.
 
Back
Top