MuzzleBlasts Postal match

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This year I decided to use my T/C flinter while shooting in the Muzzle Blasts magazine postal match. Last year I fired a replica 1861 Springfield Musket.
As I mentioned in a previous post, I have always had ignition problems with the T/C flintlock. I am a relative novice to flinters.
After following the many suggestions I have read on this forum, I was pleased to have about 80% ignition. I now this isn't good enough, but its much better then my previous efforts.
I plan to keep at it. There is something very satisfying about a flinter when it fires.
 
80% is pretty good, if you're talking 80% while you're at the range shooting strings of shots one right after the other. It sounds to me like the remaining 20% will come from you figuring out when some things need to be cleaned. I'm assuming you have it now to where the gun will definitely fire on the first shot with a clean gun? Most will. If that's the case, now you just need to figure out how many shots you can make before wiping the pan/frizzen/flint, picking out the vent, and even swabbing the barrel a couple of times. You may also find if you try different granulations of powder/lubes/patches etc., that you can go longer without cleaning.

Keep at it! Pretty soon you'll have it figured out and that 20% will be long forgotten!
 
This year I decided to use my T/C flinter while shooting in the Muzzle Blasts magazine postal match. Last year I fired a replica 1861 Springfield Musket.
As I mentioned in a previous post, I have always had ignition problems with the T/C flintlock. I am a relative novice to flinters.
After following the many suggestions I have read on this forum, I was pleased to have about 80% ignition. I now this isn't good enough, but its much better then my previous efforts.
I plan to keep at it. There is something very satisfying about a flinter when it fires.

Ignition failures usually fall into three categories:
The lock itself, the components used like flints, flint leather, powder, etc, and the cleaning & preparation steps necessary to keep it functioning correctly before each shot is attempted;

IMO, the lock has to be established as completely trouble free before even bothering with the other variables, and in the case of TC Flintlocks, I'd suggest you determine if you have their old style lock, or the new style redesigned lock.

The old or early style had some reliability problems and TC has redesigned it so it's now 100%reliable...significantly redesigned the hammer and frizzen.

If you have the old style lock, I'd suggest mailing it directly to TC's service manager Tim Pancurak with a memo explaining the lack of reliability and asking him to do whatever he can to make it more reliable so you can use it...(don't call the customer service department first, just mail it directly to Tim).

You'll either get the lock back with new parts installed or an entire new lock assembly at no charge under lifetime warranty...they've done it both ways for me on several occasions...several others on these message boards have followed suit with the same results.

Then, once you know the lock is solid, you can concentrate all your efforts on components and procedures...an outstanding combination of components in my TC flintlocks is Goex 3F and 3/4" black english flints.

PS:
In addition to the redesigned lock improving ignition reliability...TC also redesigned their vent liner which significantly improves ignition speed...suggest you replace that as well.

80% ignition is a very poor reliability factor...there should never be any doubt that the flintlock will fire 100% of the time...if it doesn't, it should only happen as a very rare surprising failure that occurs maybe once during an entire range session...and that should never be from the lock...it'll be something like a cleaning step was forgotten, or a flint's edge was allowed to get dull, etc.
:m2c:
 
Yes, it is quite a good feeling when the flintlock fires.

There are a few more skills to master. Keeping a flint tightly held, correctly angled and sharp are among these. You must keep the pan and frizzen clean and dry.

But with some guns, there is a bit more to learn. I do not want to pick on the T/C, but you should be aware that this gun (as do countless others) has a patent breach. Think of most breeches and barrels as a bolts threaded into pipes. There is often just the flat end of the bolt (Hopefully polished very smooth) to act as the breachface. The vent comes in from a hole in the side of the barrel close to the face of the bolt.

However, on the T/C the bolt is drilled deeper into a cylindrical shape with a domed end. It then has a flash hole that goes through the additional distance. This means that the powder chamber is inside this additional structure. The advantages are that you are not crushing the powder because of this and it is a bit stronger breach where the powder first goes off. But it also stops your cleaning jags from getting in here. When you are cleaning between shot, you are pushing fouling into this space which is your powder chamber. It is not being cleaned unless you use some undersized device to get in and clean this area.

This can contribute to failure to fire situations.

I hope that this helps you or others avoid such misfire problems.

YMHS,
CrackStock
 
When you are cleaning between shot, you are pushing fouling into this space which is your powder chamber. It is not being cleaned unless you use some undersized device to get in and clean this area.
This can contribute to failure to fire situations.

Not sure what your circumstances were causing you to say this, but mine have been exactly the opposite...I'm going on four years of shooting TC Flintlocks almost every weekend year round, 40-50 shots per range trip, and this has never happened in any TC Flintlock that I own...fouling never gets into the patent breech, vent holes never have to be picked, ignition never fails from any internal problems.

Even during our June/July/August high temp & humidity months, I slide pipe cleaners in through the vent to see if any mositure has collected in there (like it does in the pan) but it comes back out clean, then I run a dry patch downbore into the patent breech on a .30cal brush to see if any moisture was collecting in the top of it and it comes back out with barely a trace...after these years of repeated personal experiences with the cleanliness and performance of my patent breeches, I can't imagine ever owning a ML without one...
:thumbsup:
 
How can I tell if I have an old style lock?

BTW, I finally learned to only use real blackpowder, I use 4f in the pan.
I wipe the pan, flint and frizzen with my finger between shots. I pick the vent. Yesterday while I was shooting it was very humid. I don't use as much pan powder as I did in the past.

I should say, I really like this T/C. It balances very well and feels good in my hands. I like the modern open sights, which even though I now wear glasses, I see more clearly then the sights on any of my guns. I also like the set triggers, it works very well for target shooting.
 
11th corps,

I wipe the pan, flint and frizzen with my finger between shots.

I was warned against wiping the frizzen or flint with my fingers due to the natural oil from my body and/or the oils from lubricants that might be on my fingers.
Old Salt

This is, in my experience of about thirty years shooting flinters, an old wives tale. I've wiped the frizzen and flint with my finger to get the mud off and have never had a problem with ignition. I may be wrong, but I don't think Dan'l Boone, Simon Kenton, the Girty boys or anyone else in the days toted a little bottle of alcohol on their long hunts, well perhaps they did but I am willing to bet they didn't waste it washing the lock, rum was hard to find back of beyond.
 
I'm sure that MuzzleBlasts is having a postal match only because we are having one, they hate to be second rate... :rolleyes: :haha:
 
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