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Muzzleloader Cleaning Solution

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mvasil54

32 Cal.
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Hi Guys,

Anyone out there using "MAP" cleaning solution for there muzzleloader? "MAP" stands for:Murphy's Oil Soap, Alcohol (Isopropyl), and Peroxide (Hydrogen Peroxide)! I know it works well because I used it years ago! I can't remember what the "Recipe" is though!

I've seen "equal parts" of all three. I've also seen: 3 parts alcohol, 2 parts peroxide, and 1 part Murphy's. Which one is it??? Any one out there know for sure???

Thanks,

Mike V
 
Anyone out there using "MAP" cleaning solution for there muzzleloader?

Not me. I won't put an oxidizer like hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) in my bore. Less of a worry as it will be reduced to water by the time the Murphys, alcohol and sunlight get done with it; but water is cheaper. ;-)
 
I see no need in it. Tapwater has served me well for over 20 years.
 
Ditto on the water (cold, warm, hot or spit). Sometimes soap, sometimes not.
 
I use MAP equal parts. Then I quit useing the peroxide and now use MAW which is Murphys, Alcohol, water. It works good as a cleaner and a range patch lube. Don't throw the peroxide away. Use it as a hand cleaner when you are finished at the range does a good job taking the BP residue off your hands and takes care of the flint cuts at the same time. Also keeps your steering wheel clean and the wife happy.
Fox :hatsoff:
 
I used to use it, I had read about it in Muzzle Blast...When I heard peroxide was bad, I just left it out...I went to rubbing alcohol and a squirt of Murphy's Oil Soap...
 
I clean with it every time shoot, it`s all I ever use. I think the BEVEL brothers done an article just last year on this stuff, and found nothing wrong with it.
 
Equal parts of each is what I use. Don't use all the time but keep it handy when I need to clean a barrel that is not hook and breach. Only takes a little. Make sure you oil good after as it cleans it to the bare. Dilly
 
I clean with a black powder (TC) solvent and then with soap and hot water, then dry patches, bore butter to finish. Use dry patches in a hurry to dry it out or you'll have flash rust.

Murphy's oil soap, alcohol, etc. are part of the moose juice ingredients which is good patch lube.
 
I also use the water/soap to clean. However, the man asked what the ratio was and that's why I responded. There are some other good recipes out there, but all that is necessary is good ol' soap and water for basic cleaning chores. Emery
 
Black Hand said:
Ditto on the water (cold, warm, hot or spit). Sometimes soap, sometimes not.
Hey BH...you should have swapped these two words:

Hot or spit......to read.......Spit or Hot

Then it would have rhymed :grin:
 
hot water w/a little soap does great but I've found redemption with windshield washer fluid. has alcohol and ammonia in it. good stuff cold or hot. really cuts into fouling.
 
Pa Hunter said:
I second the windshield washer fluid. Good Stuff! Does the job.
Any kind...? is there a certain brand that is real good?
 
I've been having good luck cleaning with hot tap water and Pine-Sol. I had a bottle left over from experimenting around as a lube or solvent ingredient and, by gum, a little in hot water cleans the bore up nice. Easier than shaving flakes off a bar of Ivory Soap (my prior cleaning soap).
 
Now I am far from a chemical expert, and I dont really know the dif between Hydrogen Peroxide and and staight Hydrogen(H2), but being in the welding supply bus. concerning gas cylinders, H2 is the last service a cylinder will ever be in as it makes the steel brittle. Just a thought
 
Hydrogen Peroxide is H2O2. Pretty unstable as it wants to give off that extra oxygen molecule and become stabme water (H20). Even sunlight breaks it down (that's why it comes in dark bottles). And, since steel is 98% iron, and iron plus oxygen is rust . . .

It don't take a rocket scientist to see a problem.

Bubbles up nice and looks like it's doing something, and it is. All that oxygen kills anerobic bacteria - the baddies. So if your rifle has gangrene or a staff infection it's a good choice. Also rusts steel, iron and depassifies stainless steel - so that will be able to rust, also.
 
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