Crow-Feather
32 Cal.
Last trick I taught my Chevy was to roll over. That's why I now have a Dodge. 
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Muzzleloader Cleaning
- Thread starter GeorgeNK
- Start date
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CrowFeather: Anyone can teach a Chevey how to roll over, but could you teach it to play dead??
On the subject of Hydrogen Peroxide I was reading an old Muzzleblasts and someone (who may have been over reacting) pointed out that H2O2 is a strong oxidizer and when placed in with Alcohol (fuel) it's asking for trouble.
Just one more reason not Peroxide in your gun.
On the subject of Hydrogen Peroxide I was reading an old Muzzleblasts and someone (who may have been over reacting) pointed out that H2O2 is a strong oxidizer and when placed in with Alcohol (fuel) it's asking for trouble.
Just one more reason not Peroxide in your gun.
Guest
No, No, NO, the peroxide used to clean the guns with is drug store stuff at .03%. You can gargle with it for a sore throat!
It's the stuff you use on minor cuts.
Mix REAL straight peroxide, if you could get it, with alcohol and yes, you would be in deep doo-doo.
The peroxide used in rocket fuel will eat your skin AND bones. It's an organic oxidizer.
The drug store stuff mixed with 90% drug store rubbing alcohol and Murphy's oil soap is safe and an excellent powder solvent if used right.
In three years I've had zero corrosion from the stuff, but then you have to use it right.
4 wet MAP swabs, 4 alcohol swabs, dry swab, oil, ballistol or whatever. Check a day later to be sure and everything will be clean and no corrosion.
It's the stuff you use on minor cuts.
Mix REAL straight peroxide, if you could get it, with alcohol and yes, you would be in deep doo-doo.
The peroxide used in rocket fuel will eat your skin AND bones. It's an organic oxidizer.
The drug store stuff mixed with 90% drug store rubbing alcohol and Murphy's oil soap is safe and an excellent powder solvent if used right.
In three years I've had zero corrosion from the stuff, but then you have to use it right.
4 wet MAP swabs, 4 alcohol swabs, dry swab, oil, ballistol or whatever. Check a day later to be sure and everything will be clean and no corrosion.
Crow-Feather
32 Cal.
zonie,
Right after my chevy rolled over, it played dead real well.
delShafer,
I tried that peroxide stuff and it sure did mess up my barrel. Oh, it cleaned the barrel fine - but it turned the barrel a nice blond color. Now what am I gonna do with a blond barrel and I don't live no where near the beach in Los Angeles.
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Right after my chevy rolled over, it played dead real well.
delShafer,
I tried that peroxide stuff and it sure did mess up my barrel. Oh, it cleaned the barrel fine - but it turned the barrel a nice blond color. Now what am I gonna do with a blond barrel and I don't live no where near the beach in Los Angeles.
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Guest
Blond barrel?
Marry it! ::
Marry it! ::
Just be sure to set the butt of the gun in the peroxide so both ends match! Failure to do so is a sure give away to peroxide being used and it not really being a real blond.
DelShafer: Yes, I know it's the stuff in the drug store but it still has extra oxygen in it. That's what makes it fizz when you put it in a wound. That's also the stuff that mixes with the steel bore and makes Rust.
Ah don't want anny o that rust stuff in my bore...Nor my guns bore neather!!
DelShafer: Yes, I know it's the stuff in the drug store but it still has extra oxygen in it. That's what makes it fizz when you put it in a wound. That's also the stuff that mixes with the steel bore and makes Rust.
Ah don't want anny o that rust stuff in my bore...Nor my guns bore neather!!
Crow-Feather
32 Cal.
To get serious - ugh! - for a minute. I have always used hot water and soap, followed with a hot water rinse, followed by some sort of natural bore lube. It works so well, is so inexpensive, and follows along the traditional method of my Italian grandfather. There might be better, but I know this works.
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TwoShadows
40 Cal.
- Joined
- Dec 22, 2003
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There are times when a scraper is needed...and i do so. Most of the time my cleaning methods negates any need of it. I don't recommend my methods for everyone, but here's what/how I clean:
I have fashioned a clear plastic tube that will go down my barrel and fasten to the water hose just outside the basement door. I made a stand to hold the rifle belly up. when I turn the water on full force it squirts a heckuva bunch of water .....enough to blow water out the touch hole for 15 feet or more....( I have the lock on half cock so the water doesn't hit the side of the cock and splatter). Any excess water is naturally channeled to the top of the barrel and stays off the wood this way. One swabbing with a patch is enough to loosen any leftover crud and the barrel comes out shiney and clean. My air compressor quickly blows away any excess. I follow with any good oil and wipe the stock down and treat it with whatever I am currently using...(usually boiled linseed oil). I have one barrel that has been cleaned this way since 1973 with no ill effects, and this rifle is shot a minimum of 20 shots per month....usually MUCH more. Rifling is still sharp and it has always shot plumb center. A bore light reveals that the breechplug is easily visable and shiney. Rifle is a true .60 caliber....it is the prototype barrel that Paris and Sons built of that caliber.
Your mileage may vary!
I have fashioned a clear plastic tube that will go down my barrel and fasten to the water hose just outside the basement door. I made a stand to hold the rifle belly up. when I turn the water on full force it squirts a heckuva bunch of water .....enough to blow water out the touch hole for 15 feet or more....( I have the lock on half cock so the water doesn't hit the side of the cock and splatter). Any excess water is naturally channeled to the top of the barrel and stays off the wood this way. One swabbing with a patch is enough to loosen any leftover crud and the barrel comes out shiney and clean. My air compressor quickly blows away any excess. I follow with any good oil and wipe the stock down and treat it with whatever I am currently using...(usually boiled linseed oil). I have one barrel that has been cleaned this way since 1973 with no ill effects, and this rifle is shot a minimum of 20 shots per month....usually MUCH more. Rifling is still sharp and it has always shot plumb center. A bore light reveals that the breechplug is easily visable and shiney. Rifle is a true .60 caliber....it is the prototype barrel that Paris and Sons built of that caliber.
Your mileage may vary!
I use a breech scraper before I start cleaning to get that hard fouling off the breech face. I use a flush system to clean my rifles with a "C"clamp & tube connected to the vent & to a gallon of water. (On percussions I remove the nipple & screw a fitting in there) I flush it about 10 times using a hydraulic action consisting of a tight wet patch & jag swabbing in & out of the bore, pushing & pulling the fluid to & brom the bore & swabbing the bore at the same time. Then I put a breech brush down the bore & brush the face of the breech, then flush about 10 more times or so, then swab dry, pack 2 large dry patches into the breech to make sure I got all the fluid out, retrieve same with a worm. Then I put a squirt of Ballistol in the vent & swab liberally with Ballistol and put away Muzzle down for a day, reswab again for 2 consecutive days.
I remove & clean the lock every time I shoot the rifle, cleaning it with a toothbrush under a faucet & it takes about 2 minutes. Dry it with a paper towel & spray it entirely with Ballistol aerosol, wipe it dry & install it back on the rifle.
I remove & clean the lock every time I shoot the rifle, cleaning it with a toothbrush under a faucet & it takes about 2 minutes. Dry it with a paper towel & spray it entirely with Ballistol aerosol, wipe it dry & install it back on the rifle.
This topic is frustrating, since I don't know for sure if what I am doing is effective.
Anyway, I flush my capper thoroughly through the nipple vent. The solution is mostly water with a little added Simple Green or Murphy's oil soap. Then, I swab some alcohol down the bore to get any moisture to evaporate ASAP. Thing is, when I do this I usually get some orange on the patch. Then, when I swab some bore butter in there it comes out pretty clean. I never scrape or brush. Should I?
Thanks, sse
Anyway, I flush my capper thoroughly through the nipple vent. The solution is mostly water with a little added Simple Green or Murphy's oil soap. Then, I swab some alcohol down the bore to get any moisture to evaporate ASAP. Thing is, when I do this I usually get some orange on the patch. Then, when I swab some bore butter in there it comes out pretty clean. I never scrape or brush. Should I?
Thanks, sse
SSE:
I would also suggest using hot water, hot as you can stand working with...
Once the swabbing is done, stand the barrel on it's muzzle to allow any drips to run out...
The hot water will heat the barrel, and this will greatly aid in the evaporation of moisture...
Guest
SSE,.... Yore Early Hawken has a "pattened breech", so a "breech-face scraper" will not work for you. If you have doubts 'bout git'n the breech clean with the "flush method" yore use'n, then try a .38 calibur "mop" to git into the pattened-breech. I doubt you'll "pull" anythin out tho, as the "flush" should be sufficient.
You might try spray'n some Ballistol into the breech, by way of the clean-out hole in yore "drum" after you have patched yore bore "dry".
I used to use "HOT" water for clean'n, but the hot barrel dryed so fast, thet rust would start form'n before I could "lube" the bore.
I've used nuthin but "warm" water for years now, and I never have any rust. (at least I don't "think" I have any rust,... it's very difficult for a "blind man" to know for sure 'bout such things!)
You might try spray'n some Ballistol into the breech, by way of the clean-out hole in yore "drum" after you have patched yore bore "dry".
I used to use "HOT" water for clean'n, but the hot barrel dryed so fast, thet rust would start form'n before I could "lube" the bore.
I've used nuthin but "warm" water for years now, and I never have any rust. (at least I don't "think" I have any rust,... it's very difficult for a "blind man" to know for sure 'bout such things!)
TwoShadows
40 Cal.
- Joined
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Something to keep in mind pals...every time you run a swab up and down the barrel you are dragging more crud back and forth as well as slapping around with the rod you are using too. I have always most barrels are worn out by cleaning than shooting...and when you think about it, it's probably true. If you make 20 passes through the barrel cleaning it, then there are 20 opportunities to contaminate/score the barrel.
That is one reason for my flushing method....and I always use a brass rod.
That is one reason for my flushing method....and I always use a brass rod.
Guest
SSE,.... Don't'cha think,.. it'sa liddle "cruel" to be ask'n a blind fella (like me) if'n he can see a "pic",.... "HECK NO!!.. I DON'T SEE'A PIC"!! (try agin, and I'll keep look'n tho!!) ::
RB, Thanks for the explanation. Some time ago I saw that most breech scrapers had a flat end. But a T/C breech scraper had a round end. I figured that the T/c breechplug must be concave to accept such a scraper, so I bought one for my T/C Hawken, but haven't used it yet.
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