Phil Coffins
69 Cal.
I've got vices too but I don't brag about them. 
My first kit build
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Crow-Feather
32 Cal.
40 years ago, I paid about 70 dollars for a CVA Kentucky Rifle Kit. I tried to brown the barrel. It looked like chocolate syrup splashed on it. When I shot it, I was hooked. It didn't matter at the time, that it looked like a half browned barrel in a splinter infested stock. I built it and it was darn accurate. I remember that the metal was so weak, I bent the hammer to strike the nipple without any heat applied. At 71, I built my last rifle and it turned out somewhat decent. Smoke boomers will never end.
Help me out guys. I’m trying to polish the flat brass inlay. I got down to #0000 steel wool and 3000grit wet sandpaper but I can’t get rid of fine scratch marks. Hopefully the pics reveal what I’m struggling with.
Is there fiber grade steel wool or sandpaper? Should I try something else??
Is there fiber grade steel wool or sandpaper? Should I try something else??
Loonhaven
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Phil Coffins
69 Cal.
I just finished this rifle this morning. All the brass after filing was sanded first with 320 grit across the file marks then at 90 degrees to that with 500 grit. Finial sanding with 1000 grit at 90 degrees to that using backing blocks or rod as needed at each grit. Each grit must remove all signs of the previous sanding before the next keeping all the lines straight. Never any random patterns or circles and no buffers. for this one I cold blued the brass then carefully sanded lightly with 1200 grit to give a slightly aged look.
IMG_0536 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
IMG_0536 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
Looks to me like you rushed things and went to finer grits too soon.
The idea is, start out with a moderately rough grit like 220 and sand the surface until it has a uniform look everywhere on the surface. The paper will wear out as you sand so keep changing it for new paper when it seems like it isn't cutting like it should.
Keep on sanding with this until any larger scratches are totally removed.
Once everything on the surface looks the same everywhere and all scratches have been removed, then go to a finer paper like 320 and repeat the sanding just like you did with the 220 grit paper.
Once everything on the surface looks exactly the same switch to 400 grit, then 600 grit and so on.
I usually stop at 600 grit and then go to polishing the surface but I use cloth wheels on a grinder along with the hard compounds that are made for power polishing.
If you don't have these, try going on up to 1200 grit paper in steps.
I do NOT recommend using any kind of steel wool to try to polish brass parts. It will just skuff up the surface and make it look bad.
Before I got cloth wheels for my grinder, I did the polishing by hand. If you do this DO NOT use Copper Cleaner that is made for polishing the bottom of copper pans. It is much too rough and it will scratch up your sanded surface.
Buy some Brass polish that is made for polishing brass lamps, door knobs, book ends and the like. "Brasso Metal Polish" is pretty good and there are other brands but the key word to look for is "polish". Follow the instructions on the bottle.
When you have used the brass polish to the point that it doesn't seem to make the parts more mirror like, switch to a Silver polish. I like "Wrights Silver Polish" for this.
Silver polish is made to give silverware a mirror look and it will do the same for brass parts very nicely.
Ok. I agree—probably went to the finer grains too soon. Will tackle it again.
Bob Desert Rat
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I head to Ace hardware and pick up some 2200 grit. 3000 grit will polish glass
I’ve got as high as 3000. It was the steel wool that did the swirling I think. Here’s my second try with just wet sandpaper, only two directions (first one way, then 90* turn, then first way with next higher grit).
Still not perfect, but close. I ordered some small (dremel) buffing wheels and polishing compounds to finish it off.
Still not perfect, but close. I ordered some small (dremel) buffing wheels and polishing compounds to finish it off.
Phil Coffins
69 Cal.
Much improved.
Thanks. I’m learning.
Phil-I’m intrigued that you blued your brass. I thought people only blued steel. I’m going to brown my barrel and the nose cap (mine is steel). What happens if you brown brass? I plan on using the cold-brown...
Crow-Feather
32 Cal.
Stupid question guys, but remember, first build! Is the chalk that you use on a file just plain old chalk? Like... I could use one out of my daughter’s sidewalk chalk set (with permission, of course!)
Phil Coffins
69 Cal.
Using 44/40 cold blue turns the brass black then rubbing it back gives it a bit of an aged look and better shows the contours. I've never tried brown solution on brass.
IMG_0540 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
Your daughters chalk will work as well as any, I haven't found chalk to work as well as giving the file a light rap on the base of my vice then brushing it on my pant leg. It's quick and you soon learn how often to clean your file.
IMG_0540 by Oliver Sudden, on FlickrYour daughters chalk will work as well as any, I haven't found chalk to work as well as giving the file a light rap on the base of my vice then brushing it on my pant leg. It's quick and you soon learn how often to clean your file.
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Remember this post in your "Advise for a Newbie" thread?
"One of the biggest challenges when polishing, especially softer materials such as brass and silver is keeping surfaces as intended. Keep flats flat, angles angled, edges crisp, dont dish out screw holes and countersinks etc.
A tool I like to use are jewelers polishing sticks, basically paint stirring sticks (although thicker and flatter) with different grits. Snag them online unless you have a jewelry supply store close. Conveyor belting works well for a backer as well.
ALWAYS use a backer on your abrasive! If you just sand/polish away with your fingertips you will induce divots and waviness.
Polishing is a progression of grits, coarse to fine. Every time you switch to a finer grit abrasive sand/polish in a different direction, this will let you see the sanding marks from your previous sanding-get rid of all marks from the previous grit! If you sand/polish in one direction only it is easy to "camouflage" heavier scratches and they will show in the finished product."
Huh!
Whodathunkit?
Yes, I do recall that, and I've been following that advice more closely now.
I'm guilty of trying to incorporate feedback from MANY people/forums though, and initially tried using steel wool towards the final stages, and I think that's what got me in a pickle with all of the squirrels. That plus I've never been criticized for being overly patient, and I definitely rushed it! Growing up, my mother had a coffee cup with a saying on it... "God grant me patience, but hurry." I guess I get it honestly!
I especially like the 90* angle trick--definitely works well! Unfortunately I am not able to find a source for those jewelers sticks that you recommended, so I'm using a block of wood, and when I get to the really fine grains, gently using just my thumb so that I can control the pressure better. For the round parts (pieces that the ramrod goes into), I secure them in my vice by the tabs that go into the wood, trim pieces of sandpaper to the appropriate width, then use them like a belt on the rounds--holding both ends of the paper and pulling it over the round piece. That seems to do a fine job too.
Indeed, that does look aged and attractive. I wonder if anyone has used the browning solution could chime in too. I plan on buying the Laurel Mountain cold brown.
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Amazon has the jewelers sticks
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