My Pedersoli Classic Side By Side Patterns

[PaulF70]

I bought a Pedersoli Classic 12g last year, and finally got to shoot it recently. It's a completely gorgeous weapon and I waited a good six months for one to be in stock.

But when I bought it, the dealer couldn't tell me with certainty what chokes the barrels are, and when I got it I discovered they were not marked.

Below at 35Y patterns from the left and right barrels, respectively. Load is 80 grains Goex FF2 and the same volume (about 1 1/4 oz) #6 shot.

My conclusion is that the left barrel is Full choke and the right Modified, most likely.

Appreciate any info or insight from others.

 

[PaulF70]

Another thing - the cushion wads especially were really tough to get down the barrels due to the choke. I cannot find slightly undersized wads. Anyone know of a supplier?

 

[lwscrim]

Track of the Wolf sells 13ga wads and cards, that's what I went to for my Pedersoli 12ga.

 

[ohio ramrod]

I use leather wads and paper shot cartridges made of three thickness of newspaper wrapped around a wooden dowel and tied with kite string. in my 12 gauge

 

[PaulF70]

This is mainly for convenience in loading in the field? Definitely there are a lot of parts to deal with!

I bought this gun mainly for turkey and it's looking like that left barrel will pattern well enough to make 40Y kills viable. Can't imagine ever needing more that one real shot and maybe a finisher.

But it's such a beauty maybe I'll take it out after squirrels some time, even though I prefer precision air rifles generally for that type of sport...

 

[rafterob]

They made lots of combinations and many with no choke. Mine is cylinder bore on the right side and modified choke on the left. Just enough choke to tell there is a difference but I can still get wads and cards down without a lot of force.

 

[Britsmoothy]

Them wads look to be blowing your patterns!

Make life simple.
Just use overshot cards, three on the powder. It's all you need and they curl past chokes easy.

Shotgun wads associated with cartridges are completely unnecessary.

 

[PaulF70]

It's really a surprise they don't label the barrels!

 

[Britsmoothy]

If its modified it will measure around. 710".
Full choke will be around .690".

 

[Ponderosaman]

My Pedersoli side by side is modified on the left and improved cylinder on the right. I patterned mine on a board at 30 yards with 1 oz. 7 1/2 shot - 70 grains Goex/nitro card/1/2 paper fiber wad/shot/over-shot card. I found my POI to be 70/30 and the right barrel was only just visibly less dense than the left, so I agree with Britsmoothy that something is going on with your right barrel pattern. I also intend to use 1 1/2 oz. of #6 for turkey hunting. I will pattern on a turkey target before I go in the spring and will publish pictures on this forum when I do.

 

[PaulF70]

Guys I should have mentioned - the wad on the right barrel *broke apart* on loading.

I was/am not to worried about that barrel because I was pretty sure it was not full choke.

However I have ordered 13 gauge wads and will pattern it again.

(And I may consider not using wads as suggested above.)

(A problem with doing lots of patterns is that the range only has 25 and 50Y targets, neither of which is ideal range. So I do it in the woods when out hunting, but I think this is not totally legal. I can pop off two but doing a dozen shots might be a problem.)

 

[PaulF70]

If its modified it will measure around. 710".
Full choke will be around .690".

Dumb question, but what kind of tool can I use to measure a bore - inside diameter? I don't think my calipers will work.

 

[Sparkitoff]

If its modified it will measure around. 710".
Full choke will be around .690".

True only if it is actually a 12 bore. If it is an 11, or 13 those measurements will not accurately reflect the choke. I have the 12 and 20 Pedersoli, but my 12 has screw in chokes. The 20 has a nominal bore diameter greater than 20 bore, so the choke constrictions don't correlate to the typical constrictions for a real 20 bore. You'll need to measure the bore below the choke for a ways and see what that is and then subtract the choke diameter to determine what the chokes are meant to be.

 

[Britsmoothy]

True only if it is actually a 12 bore. If it is an 11, or 13 those measurements will not accurately reflect the choke. I have the 12 and 20 Pedersoli, but my 12 has screw in chokes. The 20 has a nominal bore diameter greater than 20 bore, so the choke constrictions don't correlate to the typical constrictions for a real 20 bore. You'll need to measure the bore below the choke for a ways and see what that is and then subtract the choke diameter to determine what the chokes are meant to be.

Yes, measuring the constriction is only a ball park any way. How the things are loaded can change the performance of the pattern irrespective of choking to some degree.

 

[jlatz]

Many like their Pedersoli doubles. For clay target work I have found the old square loads work well. A 2 3/4 dram dipper for powder also dips 1 1/8th ounces of shot. That simplifies loading. Sometimes, depending on the gun, using half of a cushion wad over the over powder wad can improve patterns.

 

[ZUG]

I bought a Pedersoli Classic 12g last year, and finally got to shoot it recently. It's a completely gorgeous weapon and I waited a good six months for one to be in stock.

But when I bought it, the dealer couldn't tell me with certainty what chokes the barrels are, and when I got it I discovered they were not marked.

Below at 35Y patterns from the left and right barrels, respectively. Load is 80 grains Goex FF2 and the same volume (about 1 1/4 oz) #6 shot.

My conclusion is that the left barrel is Full choke and the right Modified, most likely.

Appreciate any info or insight from others.

View attachment 103203View attachment 103204

Here is a list of choke sizes that may help you :
Choke Bore Sizes and Constrictions

The following is a generally agreed upon list of shotgun bore diameters for all gauges and a list of generally accepted choke constrictions (in thousands of an inch) for the various named choke constrictions.

Gauge	10​	12​	16​	20​	28​	410​
True Bore Dia.	.775​	.729​	.662​	.615​	.550​	.410​
Cylinder Bore	.000	.000	.000	.000	.000	.000
Skeet I	.005	.005	.004	.004	.003	.002
Improved Cyl.	.010	.009	.007	.006	.005	.004
Skeet II	.015	0.12	.010	.009	.007	.006
Modified	.020	0.19	.015	.014	.012	.008
Improved Mod.	.025	.025	.020	.019	.016	.011
Full Choke	.035	.035	.028	.025	.022	.015
Extra Full	.040	.040	.035	.027	.024	.021

 

[Steel Guitar]

Use the flat outside surfaces of your calipers to measure. But the fastest way on 12 gauge is use a dime, if it will not go in the end of the barrel it's full choke. If it goes in with very little clearance it's modified.
On the fiber wads: turn them sideways to push into the barrel and the ramrod will get them straight. If they are too thick to get in cut them in half. This is what I do on my T n T full n full, 80g 2f, 1 1/4 shot and shoots goood!!! Good luck pard

 

[Sparkitoff]

But the fastest way on 12 gauge is use a dime, if it will not go in the end of the barrel it's full choke. If it goes in with very little clearance it's modified.

Again, this only hold true if the bore is actually exactly 12 gauge. .729. I have a Pedersoli "12b" that is NOT .729. 11 gauge would be around .751. My bore dimensions before the choke are in-betweeen the true 12 and 11. The only way to determine the choke dimensions are to know the bore diameter and subtract the choke diameter. The only way to know the real "choke" is to shoot the standard 40-yard, 30-inch circles and count the pellets in the circle to determine the "choke" spread. With a muzzleloader, you can change the whole pattern by changing components too. So regardless of the constriction, one set of components can produce a pattern that is +/- what another set of components produces from the same barrel.

 

[ohio ramrod]

Dumb question, but what kind of tool can I use to measure a bore - inside diameter? I don't think my calipers will work.

A "telescoping" tool can be used to measure a bore below the end choke size. Any old time machinist should have a set. They are "t" shaped with the top cross pieces spring loaded . You losen the T place it into the bore hold it as straight as you can . Tighten the end, then slant it to remove, and measure the T with a calipers or micrometer.

 

[PaulF70]

Use the flat outside surfaces of your calipers to measure. But the fastest way on 12 gauge is use a dime, if it will not go in the end of the barrel it's full choke. If it goes in with very little clearance it's modified.
On the fiber wads: turn them sideways to push into the barrel and the ramrod will get them straight. If they are too thick to get in cut them in half. This is what I do on my T n T full n full, 80g 2f, 1 1/4 shot and shoots goood!!! Good luck pard

Sir, I owe you a drink! Based on what the dime says the right is Modified and the left Full. Which is what I'd concluded, but it's good to have this extra info.