Thank you and good luck with your build! Get in there!Beautiful.
I'm planning a RH caplock clone; got TOW plans; just need to stop this infernal procrastinating dangit.
View attachment 317043
Thank you and good luck with your build! Get in there!Beautiful.
I'm planning a RH caplock clone; got TOW plans; just need to stop this infernal procrastinating dangit.
View attachment 317043
Very Nice!I finished up this rifle several weeks back. I'll say its a generic Lancaster that has a good bit of Dickert and some Haines in it. I built it from accumulated parts and a clearance sale stock I've had since 2006. The rifle turned out well even though it tossed some challenges my way during the build; including very soft wood, and a buried rot pocket behind the cheek that extends into the box cavity on the offside. That forced me to change my carving elements, but I was able to work around the issue with simplified carving. It's going to be a hunting rifle so I decided on steel furniture even though historically it would have been brass mounted. The barrel is a Colerain 38 inch, Early American, B weight in .50 cal. Lock is a lefty Chambers Siler. Wood was colored with Laurel Mountain Maple stain and Laurel Mountain Ebony stain in a 6:1 ratio. Lock plate, ****, trigger plate, side plate, toe plate, nose cap, thimbles and screws are fire blued. Barrel, buttplate, frizzen and triggerguard are rust blued. I experimented with Mark Lee's Express Blue #1 for the rust bluing and was well pleased. It is easy, fast and it left a deep, nice finish. You don't need a humidity box or a boiling tank. I used a piece of two inch PVC piped capped on one end as my "tank", and poured in boiling water to cure the finish. Finished weight of the rifle is 6 pounds 10 oz.
Beautiful work especially the repair and carving.That is very p[easing to the eye, sir. Well done. And, it is correct handed to boot!
Thank you! I think being a lefty does help with building a left handed rifle.Beautiful work especially the repair and carving.
Being right handed it is hard to visualize working on a left hand flintlock , but since my younger grandson is a southpaw I may have to!
Thank you!Beautiful rifle; too bad the lock and patchbox are on the wrong side!
Thank you very much!That is very p[easing to the eye, sir. Well done. And, it is correct handed to boot!
Thank you!Very Nice!
Thank you very much Bob! I appreciate you comments.I like everything about the way that rifle turned out. Everything from parts selection, to inlay and carving, final finish and coloration of wood and metal parts. The workmanship on display here is extraordinary.
I think blued barrels are under-represented these days. Yours looks really good!
Best regards,
Notchy Bob
Thank you sir!Fantastic job, Sir. When I see a work of art like this, it makes me realise what a lot I have to learn about this hobby.
Goody more gun ****I finished up this rifle several weeks back. I'll say its a generic Lancaster that has a good bit of Dickert and some Haines in it. I built it from accumulated parts and a clearance sale stock I've had since 2006. The rifle turned out well even though it tossed some challenges my way during the build; including very soft wood, and a buried rot pocket behind the cheek that extends into the box cavity on the offside. That forced me to change my carving elements, but I was able to work around the issue with simplified carving. It's going to be a hunting rifle so I decided on steel furniture even though historically it would have been brass mounted. The barrel is a Colerain 38 inch, Early American, B weight in .50 cal. Lock is a lefty Chambers Siler. Wood was colored with Laurel Mountain Maple stain and Laurel Mountain Ebony stain in a 6:1 ratio. Lock plate, ****, trigger plate, side plate, toe plate, nose cap, thimbles and screws are fire blued. Barrel, buttplate, frizzen and triggerguard are rust blued. I experimented with Mark Lee's Express Blue #1 for the rust bluing and was well pleased. It is easy, fast and it left a deep, nice finish. You don't need a humidity box or a boiling tank. I used a piece of two inch PVC piped capped on one end as my "tank", and poured in boiling water to cure the finish. Finished weight of the rifle is 6 pounds 10 oz.
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